bansheesandrider

Thanks for the insult from somebody that does not know me. For your info, I am a farmer and no we don't let people ride in our fields unless it is an employee or family. I happen to ride the Oregon Dunes on a regular basis and see first hand what the tree huggers are doing. I am a responsible rider and obey all posted closures, even if I feel that they are unreasonable. I encourage the people I ride with to obey them also, and on more than 1 occasion I have told somebody to get out of the closed areas. I was also one of the first people to get Cascade silencers to meet the sound requirements of the Oregon Dunes. But, I do feel that anybody that is supporting the closure of the dune needs to be boycotted. And the companies on that list are known to be supporting the dunes closure. Petitions were circulated to stop thre dunes closures, but the Forest Service closed them anyway, without due process because the tree huggers threatened to sue them if they did not. Patagonia has been listed as contributing to the fund supporting the closure.

Pull your clutch cover and see what is going on in there first. Bad cushions ib the basket can make it knock, or if the snap ring and washer came off the kick idler gear and ran thruogh the primary gears, it can damage a gear tooth and make it knock.

The companys on that list are all a bunch of God Damn Tree Huggers and none of them should get a dime from riders. They all believe that motor vehicles on the dunes or forests are ruining them. As is typical of these people, they think the land needs to be protected from everybody. They don't think about the people that can only enjoy the land with a motor vehicle to get them out there because of a handicap, etc. And yes, Patagonia does support the GDTH because they know that their customers are hikers and campers, and not riders.

The stock bulbs are 35W apiece on either high OR low beam. I am not sure what the tailight draws, but later bike use a 1157 bulb and early bike use a 194 bulb, whish is what is used in a non sealed clearance light. So 5W for the taillight is about right. As long as you don't go over 35W apiece in the headlight and use a reasonable taillight bulb, you will be fine.

X2 on that.

Did you just throw Wisecos in a stock cylinder or did you have the cylinders sleeved and bored to fit the pistons? The stock cast pistons require a bigger clearance than the forged Wisecos, so if you just threw a set of Wisecos into your cylinders you probably have to much piston to cylinder clearance. This is going to manifest into piston slap and broken piston skirts and will get worse quicker with more performance mods. As for the rest of your future setup- The hardest running Banshees have 2 carbs, you will have more power at the lowend with 2. The only advantage of 1 carb is there is 1 less carb to clean and jet. Also, Pro Design heads are OK but you have to pull the studs out of the cylinders and install longer ones. If you go with Noss or Chariot, or Modquad you can run the stock studs. Just choose a head that uses the same domes as Pro Design and you will be good.

Back in 1990 when I bought my aftermarket stock style swingarm it was 1 arm fits ALL years.

I probably said that wrong, what I should have said was that you should probably be using castor oil if you are running alky.

You should ALWAYS run an O ring chain, UNLESS you are racing and need to get maximum power to the ground. When it comes to chain, you usually get what you pay for. The stock chain is a DID, and they seem to last the longest for me. So I recomend the DID X ring chain.

I knew a guy that had the jaws bumper. He crashed, went over the bars, tangled with the bumper and became paralyzed because one of the teeth severed his spinal cord. Freak accident to be sure, but something to think about.

I did it with mixed results. The O ring is NOT available from Yamaha/Mikuni by itself. I used O rings out of a universal O ring kit like you can buy at NAPA, a hydraulics shop or even Harbor Freight. I got mine out of the kit I had at work( Hyster dealership). They worked for awhile, but eventually started leaking and I ended up replacing the seats.

This is not a cheap hobby. You get what you pay for and doing something halfway gets you halfway results. Anybody that has been around high performance vehicles knows that when you change one thing, there are 10 more things you will have to modify to make it survive. As was said, a spacer plate is just another place to have an air leak. Considering what you have now, the best bang for the buck is going to be run the stock crank and get it ported. That being said, if you port it for a stock stroke, you may not be able to report it for a 4 mil later.

Also, is klotz flex drive wet clutch compatible? Um, that is why several of us swear by it for our Banshees!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 927 and Benol are a castor based oils, R50 is a full synthetic oil, and suoertechniplate is a synthetic with a small amount of Benol in it. Castor oils don't burn clean and will leave a residue on your pipes. Synthetic oils burn clean, but may have issues with some fuels.

Check out the rest of Trail Tech's site, you will find more info about the rectifier and you can do a search on BHQ for DC conversion.

If your splines are wore, you will never keep the hub nuts tight. You can try mounting the hubs with loctite but it will be a bitch to get it apart next time.

87-90 had J arms, the front brakes changed for the 90 model, early stator is 87-94 late stator is 95 on. CDI boxes: 87-94, 95-96, 97 on. Wire harnesses 87-94, 95-96, 97-2001, 2002 on. Tailights:87-2001, 2002 on. Headlights vary by year but it is just the connectors. 89 and 90 had different rear wheels. The spring rates and even shock valving change several time over the years, but, as long as the fronts are a matched pair you can use any year.@002 on had brake lights so there are extra switches on the levers for them. Swingarms should be the same for all years. Bearing carriers: 87-88, 89 on, but the late one should fit the early bike with the right hardware. 87-88 had a 4 bolt rear sprocket, 89 on had a 6 bolt. ALL years had TORD and 97 on had the park brake rev limiter, and I belive 1991 on had the extra footguards.

Your tires now have more leverage on the shock. You may need to adjust the preload, go to a different spring or even a different shock.

When you buy the coolhead you must get one with stroker domes. They are readily available, you just must specify that's what you need. Just by going to a stroker you are changing your port timing. A spacer plate corrects this somewhat, but is a poor way of doing it. The best way to do it is port your cylinders for the stroke and then either have the stock head cut for the stroker or use a coolhead with stroker domes. If you cut the head or use stroker domes you don't need the spacer. You may need to upgrade your pipes or carbs depending what you have now. You will need better springs in the clutch, shift mods, a billet impeller, a timing plate, better reeds, a longer swingarm, and maybe change your gearing.

As I said the rectifier will replace the new regulator you bought. The new wire and the original yellow wire will go to the rectifier.

Trail Tech makes a rectifier to replace the one you just bought and read my link for a how to on the ground. http://www.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/stators/AC-DC_Banshee_Stator_Conversion_Instructions.pdf

927 is a castor based oil. It will provide great protection for your motor, but if you don't ride it hard enough you will have a gooey build up on your silencers and possibly carbon buildup on your pistons and rings. I used to run Benol in all my bikes until the rings stuck in the wife's Blaster due to carbon buildup from not riding it hard enough and too much idling. I swithed to R50 synthetic in all my bikes and have had no problems since.

You have to do a DC conversion, which means you have to float the ground in the stator and add a rectifier/regulator.

The switch has seperate circuits for the headlights and taillights, therefore the switch could be bad on the headlight side and still work on the taillight side.

DO the math= 42/13 is 3.23 and 45/14 is 3.21. It is almost the same ratio so performance is going to be the same. You already have the 13 so buy a 42 and try it.

I don't think the problem is with the guide, it is with the swingarm. I had a JP Racing swingarm, they got bought out by Lonestar about 18 years ago, and had the same problem with the guide mount on it. It was mounted to high and I had to modify the mount to make it work.