official_style

So I started trying to tune one of my shees today, since it was warm out, this is my first time doing it. The bike is stock internally, and has t5s, pods, +4 timing, 310 jets, and the long dynojet needles on the 4th clip. I got the idle set good, and the carbs are synced with my sync tool. Air screws are 1.5 out. When driving, the bike is ok right off idle, but bogs if you give it a lot of gas, then takes off. If you rev it up high, it also seems to be backfiring slightly. This seems like it is too rich correct? Now do I need to adjust the needles or the air screws?

hell yea thats what im talkin about! thats the problem with the east coast, all we got is crackhead hewas, we dont have any meth head ones.

wouldnt the longer needles help, as far as putting around/low throttle?

You can just go to a bank and get a loan, they don't care what is for, shit you could blow it all on meth hookers if you really wanterd to!

all four strokes are comfortable? there are a bunch of people agreeing with me in this thread saying how the shee is more comfortable than the 450. also, whether the engine is 2 or 4 stroke has no effect on how comfortable the bike is, or how you sit on it lol

yea thats what i was gonna say, i havent used it on banshee pipes, but i have used it on the exhaust tips on my mustang, and the diff cover, bumpers and tips on my old yukon shit gets all the rust off!

damn 8 grand? they got them advertised new here for like $5900, prob get it for less too.

yea and the seat blows on the 450, the banshee seat is mad comfortable.

the way you kind of sit like leaning down and forward on it. after a while it gets uncomfortable. with the banshee, you sit more upgright, which is way more comfortable, and you can still lean down on the front, when hauling ass. to me, the way you sit on the shee is much more similar to the craptor 700 than the 450.

i would get the shee. i have ridden both, and the 450 is uncomfortable IMO.

INTRO SALE PRICES......$100 SHIPPED PER KIT.

$105-$115 plus shipping per kit, with the discount.

its easy, remove your stock bulbs. connect the wire that was going to them to the ballasts. install the hid bulbs where the stock ones were. connect ballast to bulb. turn them on and you should be good. IF they do no turn on, then you need a wiring harness with a relay, which has 1 wire that connects to + on the battery, i have these also. almost all cars do not need this though. 9006 kits are $105 plus shipping with the discount. trust me if you can work on your shee, you can do this shit no problem!

grand cherokee is much easier, you need 9006 for lows, and a 9005 kit for high beams.

an 01 jeep cherokee comes with sealed beam 6054 headlights, which do not have replaceable bulbs. you need to get headlights which have replaceable bulbs, and then you can run a HID kit. here is what you would need, then you will need h4 bulbs, which i have. http://www.nlmotoring.com/ProductDetails.a...CHX&click=2 here are the current colors i have

i have the high/low kits in 9007 size, they will fit your jetta perfectly. that diagram is actually way outdated, i guess i should remove it from the pics. here is a pic of a 9007 highlow bulb. all of my kits have the correct sockets for each bulb size, so you basically pop your old bulb out, and install the HID capsule. the plugs are also matched to the bulb sizes, so each kit is plug and play, there is no cutting of wires or modifiying the vehicle. everything also comes with a 1yr warranty.

as in just 9007 bulbs? i would have to split up a kit to do it.

my ebay store is up and running, i will be listing more kits tonight. check em out: http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/digitalhids i am offering a $15 discount per kit for bansheehq members, just let me know what you need. these are top quality kits, i have been running these bulbs/ballasts for like 2 years, no problems. this is a picture of the current ballast most people are selling now, it is total junk, i tested a few samples and they are extremely unstable and unreliable, my ballats and bulbs are top of the line!

so then the lonestar i got is the widest i can get, cool.

ac racings customer service blows cock. i called them up and told them the problem, and they are like send a pic to our tech department. so i do, and the guy writes back that the peg isnt straight and it shouldnt be like that. he says to contact sales dept about getting a replacement. i have called and emailed, with no answer for a few days. wtf i bought 2 pairs of these things.

who makes the widest rear axle? currently i have a lonestar 2+2 (+4"in my 06, and some random axle in my 97, and the 97 is like an inch wider.

working on the carbs was really easy, i cleaned all the shit out of them and got everything back together perfectly. so once it warms up and i start the bike, just explain to me about the air screws, currently they are 1.5 out. what am i going to be seeing if its doing when i start it, and which way do i adjust them?

Should I put a few washers in between the frame and the peg mount to straighten it out? Or is it better to install it without, and just crank it all down till its straight?

I am having a problem installing my pro pegs, the left (shifter) side peg went on the problem, but the right side one is tilted towards the back of the bike when installed. This is causing the nerf to not go on straight, which won't let it line up with where it bolts to on the frame. I am trying to install these on both my bikes, and having the same exact problems. am I doing something wrong, or are they defective?

octane boost sucks. my boy ran it in his 20g talon like a dumbass and it fucked his shit up big time.