I against the masses I guess. Theres some stock stroke cubs that flat out get it done. Theres others that are dogs. I had a 392 cub that made 79 hp with T5s and 35mm carbs , made 83hp with CPIs. That was a good little duner. They are a pretty good motor IMO.
There are a bunch of motor options . Is your motor a 4 mil stock cyl? What thickness is the base gasket? Any spacer plate? There are different rod lengths, different pistons for stock strokes as well as longer stroke motors. Its pretty easy to use a feeler gauge and get the pop out measurement and the same for the step in the head. If it is a stock cyl unported it is very common to have the wrong base gasket when someone does a rebuild.
Your needle and or float is probably sticking and overflowing the carb and giving it too much gas making it run very rich on at least that one side. Fix the overflowing problem and your running problem will probably go away.
Most people including me would tell you to stay at 4 degrees if you dont know what head you really have.
Back years ago we all ran 5 degrees with pumpgas motors. Detonation is as much of a factor with how hot a motor is as well as fuel and compression. Each degree of timing is a power gain up to a point. If you have the stock head thats not milled more than .020 or .030 you should be able to run 5 but watch it and listen for any detonation in case your setup doesnt like it. We dune raced with 5 degrees and would hot lap our bikes for hours but didnt have our jetting on the very edge back then.
That sux bro. Andy is going thru a huge change and becoming No Limit Powersports in Tulsa , a Yamaha and Kawasaki dealership. I will bring this to his attention so he knows he has a problem. He is usually very quick on shipping.
Honestly I love cubs but a good ported stock cyl is close. An unported 421 cub with the right inframes is only about low 80s for hp on gas. There are a lot of stock cyls that are right there.
Whoever told you that would need more info than you have given us before saying that.
Could it be possible that one certain motor lost hp with a particular 19cc dome..Yes. Depending on the pipe, squish, porting etc a 19 may be better than the 21.
I dont mind the pump. Makes it easy to purge. I have one side of my pingle blocked off and run one side to my pump. Think about it ultimately you have one line going into the pump. In my opinion the T slows fuel flow more than the one side of the pingle does.
They may just not have em on their site. No limit Powersports, formerly M/M Atv probably has them. If your dragracing only then you may not need em. I dont run them usually but I may now that I switched pipes.
Ysn is a chinese copy of a pwk. IMO I would steer clear of those but I am sure they are cheap. Probably $100-125 cheaper for a set than a keihin 28 or 33
A +4" swingarm usually needs quite a bit more tire than those 20" 8 paddles and the 10" wheel hurts too. A stock motor on a bike with a +4 swingarm/285lb rider kinda needs bigger tires but doesnt have a ton of HP for a lotta paddle.
For that setup I would think a 21x12x8 7 paddle will float and hook much better with a 285lb rider. I personally like the 21x12x8 tires , they are very close in size to the 22s but are noticeably lighter. The 21" is much larger and will float much better than those 20s on a 10" wheel. No V paddles with a +4. IMO.
Most so called drag type/topend hp inframes such as shearer and cpi will be 5 to 10% less power than their out of frames. A well built motor even with inframes can be very fast but the same well built motor is faster with oofs. In my opinion there is no better than Shearers. CPI also has a loyal following and are very good pipes.