John

Please provide us some more info on your jetting specs, I just did the same setup minus reeds and I have T5s, but have a mid throttle issue. How many turns out are you? If you check the sticky at the top about jetting troubleshooting there is a chart that can help lock on to and isolate the area of the throttle that isn't right. I am thinking something along air/screw and pilot circuit. I am sure Sredish will jump in because he seems to have jetting on lock.

The Toomey needles are supposed to be the culprits in a lot of mid throttle issues, so I have new stock needles coming and I know for a fact I have the clips in the wrong position. I also am waiting on my TORS kit and cascade clamps and hangers. I am going to take everything apart again, because this is unacceptable to me. One pipe is so close to the fuel valve it's very hard to shut the gas off and the other pipe is touching the frame. It also looks like the front fenders need to be trimmed as well for these pipes to work. I am pretty sure I have the stingers on correctly, the Toomey logo faces away from the bike correct, if so then they are mounted correct. I guess I am going to be spending the weekend getting this straightened out

So I go through the hassle of taking my bike apart yesterday and did the Toomey T5 pipes and silencers along with Toomey's jet kit. I was going to use the stock needles but upon re-install I accidentally dropped the throttle valve and needle assembly and bent the needle. I think the fitment of the pipes is piss poor. They are too close to the plastics and the frame. I actually can only slide maybe one piece of paper through on each side. It is also very difficult to shut the gas off without burning hands. That's beside the point. I went with the following on the bike 280 mains, Toomey needle. I have the clip in what I think is the fourth slot (do you count up from the needle point??? I did that). I also adjusted the idle air/screw to 1 1/2 turns out. I have the silencers mounted but one appears to be shorter than the other, however that was the only way to get the stingers to make a good seal and mount up. The bike fired over and warmed up nicely upon the initial ride I felt like the power be more like an on off switch. The is hardly anything and then it hauls off nicely. I am not sure if this bike is setup right, it feels faster on the pipe, but elsewhere is blows big time. Actually contemplating a different set of pipes if this is how the setup is. I didn't change the pilots which I thought was odd. I also run a 40:1 ratio of Bel-Ray H1R and Sunoco 93. Only other mods are a K&N filter and a Toomey filter which I haven't tried. After the ride today I noticed some smoke coming from the front of the bike and then I see fluid dripping down. I believe this fluid to be brake fluid upon color and smell. Is there anything I could've fucked up in the process that would cause this. I already looked under the bike and I can see this black vacuum line dripping this fluid down the frame. Any thoughts on either jetting and this mysterious leaking. I am also at sea level in Jersey. Any help is greatly appreciated, also is it worth it for me to buy new needles and put stock ones in? Thanks for any help you guys can provide me with.

I am looking at going with some new tires for the bike, I am leaning towards using YFZ tires. I think the big block structure of the knobs in the rear will help dig in more.... does anyone have any input on using YFZ tires or should I go with some Kenda MXRs or Holeshots?

I will add that to stage 2 of my power enhancing mods to go along with a new stator that can actually run my lights and a lightweight flywheel. I don't know if I spoke to Jeff directly, whoever answered the phone pretty much told me that. I would be probably safe from whatever that guy said seeing he has probably seen a shitload of bikes come in and out and what works and whatnot.

What is everything that is done? I am mildly interested in it, I wouldn't mind having two Banshees thats for sure.

So I called FAST today and ordered a carb synch tool and then I ordered the TORS removal kit from them, and I began to talk about porting and carb size and I said I am looking for what would be a woods port and maybe 28pwks, and I was told I would be better off with 33s because that would build a massive midrange and add a little more over rev to the bike.... Any ideas on this?

I was very excited to see us win as well. It's hard to have to go to work and break all the giant, eagles, cowboys, redskins fans balls when I like the fucking raiders.

The NOSS head was the head I was going to choose and try to go with the smallest cc domes pump gas will allow, so I am thinking something like 20cc. Maybe 21cc. Not sure what the lowest I can go, but then again I haven't researched it yet.

Yes I have seen videos of your bike, very fast indeed. I already have the YFZ a-arms, I am waiting on 2003LEBanshee I believe his name is to contact me back when he has time away from the Fire academy thing so I can ship my arms (Limited Edition arms might I add) NOSS tie rods, and YFZ450 shocks are already in the snail mail. All I am looking for now is YFZ front hubs, spindles, calipers, Galfer pads, rotors, brake lines, revalve the rear shock and maybe go with an RPM axle. Hiper wheels, and new plastics with a vinyl job I design. I know I don't need big ass carbs and stroker motors and all the other stuff that everyone seems to buy because I will never use that kinda power where I ride. I hope all the motor work gets me over 55hp. I am considering keeping stock carbs, but I always thought the 28s would be a perfect match for the setup, and give me more top end. I am not going for a crazy top end port job so I figured it would be another place add a little more meat in. I guess I will see in time how I wanna change this or that. So far I have pretty much put my 400 on the backburner while I build this bike. Thanks again for all the advice and info, I appreciate it.

I have a +6 timing key on my 400EX and the throttle response is awesome. I have considered the timing key, but I think I am going to hold off onto the next set of mods comes along. I hope I can retain my airbox or that filter is going to be up for sale, I ride in very dusty areas and I already have to clean the filters thorough after every ride as it is, and it's sitting in the stock airbox. I will have to look into it, they didn't mention anything on the Toomey site about removal of airbox for that filter. I guess I will stick with stock needles then. I have heard not so nice things about the Toomey needles since I am researching it more. I was going to go with a cool head in round two of my power enhancing mods at which time I would go with VForce 3s, and 28mm carbs. After that I planned on waiting for the top end to need a rebuild so I can send the jugs out for a woods play port from FAST. Then I am finished with the motor, anything after that and I wouldn't be able to run any faster in the trails and pits. I don't need a 75hp motor, wherever I get with all those mods will be plenty enough. I am trying to finalize the rest of the suspension now and getting new wheels. The reason I am choosing not to replace reeds now is it will be easier to do when I am going to put new carbs on it. My bike only has 35hrs on it, I bought it with less than 20 from the original owner. i have owned the bike 3 months. I feel the motor is finally broken in and runs really good the way it is. I also was planning on trying to locate a lightened flywheel to add to the mix as well but haven't had any success.

Ok I will add a TORS removal kit to the list as well. I am glad I don't need a carb synch tool, it just seemed like I thought it was necessary to get the bike to run right. Yea this bike is getting a grip of upgrades right now. I am looking for new wheels tires, plastics, and I am getting the rest of my YFZ front end. Just trying to build a bike that stands out from the rest of the HQ rides. I have seen a lot nice bikes and now I wanna build something that will drop jaws in every aspect. Trying not to reveal my ideas sooo much, kinda wanna shock people with it.

What's not worth it? And what research did you find? I think the price on the parts is rather cheap. I found my a-arms for 150 dollars off ebay, 07 LE models to be specific, and found shocks in the 150 range. 300 dollars for fully adjustable shocks and plus 2.25 arms sounds good to me at least. 2003banshee I believe is his name is still doing arms, he is currently doing a firemans academy or something along those lines but will be home a few times a month. If you pm him he will contact you when he has time, and he does have the spacers as well. I am waiting for him to contact me so I can ship my parts out to him. You can do either setup without using the other.... banshee shocks, YFZ arms or YFZ shocks banshee arms. There are ways to make both work.

I have only a couple parts waiting delivery of my first series of power enhancing parts. Here is what I have sitting in front of me. 1. Toomey T5 Pipes and Silencers (Chrome) 2. Toomey Jet Kit 3. Toomey 2:1 Filter Kit 4. EHS Open Air Lid (Still Waiting for) 5. Cascade Polished Exhaust Hangers 6. Cascade Polished Exhaust Clamps I already have a Clymers manual and some patience. Is there any gaskets I should be concerned with or seals of some variety? Also I don't have a dual carb synchronizer tool, I am not sure how it works and don't know how to operate it. Is that going to stop me from getting my bike to run optimal? I would really like to hope that everything works out for me and I don't need anything else, just figured I would ask because it seems like no one ever asks about the job before hand and I would hate to get halfway through only to realize I am missing something. Thanks in advance.

Is there a difference in mounting points on a J-arm banshee and a A-arm banshee? If the frame has different mounting points then my "GUESS" is that they won't work. At least without some sort of modification. I am rather new to Banshees and understand there are two different variations, even though I am not 100% on what is exactly different. how difficult would it be to convert to a-arms from a J-arm standpoint.

OK well my parts arrived today, and they came off a limited edition YFZ450 because they are a flat black which is cool because I was gonna go black on them, but might hold off and powdercoat them gloss black in the future. Let me know in october when you want me to ship them to you so I can send them out to you and I would like the full service including your bushings, and the Noss tie rods for the project. Thanks again for being a stand up guy, I have been running into more and more flakers when it comes to picking up parts.

Are your Noss tie rods, banshee specific or YFZ specific? Just curious to know.

Well actually I was first originally looking into Paul Turner mids as I do more trail and mx oriented riding. I don't run any mx tracks yet, but my pit is setup like one. It just seemed like the best overall pipe through my searching was T5s. I guess in the spring I will pick up a set of Paul Turners and try them out and if I don't like them I will sell them. Not a big deal. I also agree with the ease of riding a 4 stroke, I have a 400EX and that thing is an absolute blast to ride and handles like 10 times better than the banshee.

Just out of curiosity, why don't you like Toomey pipes? I am fairly new to Banshee's and their workings but aside from my bike being totally stock, and researching on the site, it seemed like the T5s were almost a unanimous choice for pipe upgrade? You appear to be very knowledgeable and have sound theory I was just curious to know why you don't like Toomey? I just bought a set of T5s but have not put them on yet, waiting for the jet kit, air filter and air lid, along with cascade hangers.

So upgraded carbs don't need the TORS removed since it doesn't have it on them? I figured I would need a new throttle cable. Just wanted to clear it up before I bought anymore parts for my bike.

3 race only brake setups, changing brakes, I lost count. I am not arguing that stainless brake lines don't increase the effectiveness of the brakes. If you actually read my posts it says it over and over again. Actually to correct myself the brake pedal or lever is the switch, the line carries the input to the system. My arguement is that stainless brake lines DO NOT DECREASE BRAKE DISTANCES. They will allow you to have maximum brake power for longer period times.... is that not correct. I agree with you 100% on brake lines and their use, I am only stating they will not change your braking distances. I have been on rides for a long time and feel the lever get mushy. I am a firm believer in stainless lines, I use them on my cars on the fuel system, clutch and brakes. If you did a test to check distances on two bikes one with stainless lines, and the other with rubber, they would have the same distance, however the stainless lines will have a more firm and linear feel. If you ran 5 laps on a mx track, I can see your braking efficiency being lower with rubber lines because the lines will swell. I am starting to believe everyone is misunderstanding me or maybe everyone believes they do reduce distances. You guys can continue to argue and debate and possibly bash me. I am done with this thread.

I have a 2002 that is completely blue for the time being.

Sounds good. I hope to hear from you when it gets closer.

It's not ignorance, it's called experience. I understand how brake lines work. I also understand the benifit of stainless lines compared to rubber lines. Stainless lines reduce flexing. They allow your brakes to work at their optimum for longer. The reason new bikes with rubber lines work better is because the line is newer and hasn't been exposed to the heat and abuse like an older line on an older machine. After talking it back over with several shop owners and fellow racecar drivers, I am confident I am still correct. Why don't you do yourself a favor and email a brake line manufacturer about whether or not their brake lines reduce stopping distance? This is exactly the same for the clutch line as well in an automobile, if the line swells the pedal falls to the floor which I have experienced first hand. But what the hell do I know about brake lines since 3 out of 4 vehicles I raced have them. Do yourself a favor and call a brake line company and ask them, when they explain how their brake lines work and that they don't reduce distance but allow your calipers to get a consistent pressure.

I will just hold onto the arms then, because I still have not received them. I will hit you up at the end of october or early november when your schedule clears up a bit and you have more time. hit me back up when you get back.