John

Not trying to thread jack, but when I look at TORS eliminator kits I see they say they work with stock carbs only. Is there a different version to work with upgraded carbs. I was considering this winter to go up to some 28mmPWKs but I am going to eliminate the TORS first on my stock carbs.

The brake line is more like a switch to activate the rest of the braking system. I race cars on a normal basis, I think I am pretty sure I understand how the brake system works. I have done my brakes over 3 different times. You are going for a line that will stay consistent with feel. The line doesn't make it decrease braking distances any better. It allows it to sustain heat and abuse for a longer period of time. Rubber lines swell and your brake lines will do a less than acceptable job of getting your brakes to make you stop. I am good for reading any more info on brakes, I understand the system pretty well thanks. If your foolish enough to think brake lines will decrease your stopping distances over upgraded pads, then you are surely mistaken. Having stainless brake lines reduce stopping distance is like having some sort of titanium wound throttle cable to make you go faster, it doesn't work like that. We can argue this to the end of time, I am going to choose not to, I don't wanna aggravate anyone else on the matter and we can all go back to helping others on the forums and working on our own rides. :beer:

ok so the guy contacts me and says he sent out the arms, so I am anxiously looking for them in the mail. once in my possession, I will ship them directly to you for the service along with a check for the service. sound good.

Thanks but that isn't quite what I am looking for, I am looking for the color that the plastics are. It's like a graphite grey with some sort of pearl flake in it. It looks very nice. i am gonna paint my fenders over with it and clearcoat it. That other stuff doesn't help me. Thanks for the effort though I appreciate it. I had my hopes up for a second.

Ok let me get this straight, brake line upgrade decreases stopping distances because more line pressure? How does the line improve the line pressure, the pressure is the pressure, there really isn't a way to add or subtract pressure with the addition of steel lines. rubber lines will only flex when they have had extreme temps brought up on them. Dual calipers does not provide more pad surface and definitely not twice the pad size. There are many brake systems and that have 2 pistons that are bigger than 4 piston designs and vice versa, equally do to caliper size, and piston size. If we are going to get really technical about reduction of speed, then I guess you might as well start with tires, which tires are the best in slowing you down. They are the only thing in contact with the ground, therefore tires are probably one of the biggest things you can do to increase braking performance. pads would be next, larger rotors and calipers would follow. Lines are really just to give you better feel. I bet if you flushed your lines and put on a more aggressive pad you would be far better off. I wouldn't spend the money on stainless lines if I wanted better stopping power, I would upgrade pads and flush the fluid. I am predominantly speaking from experience with my cars, and braking systems are braking systems regardless the vehicle. I only chose to upgrade the lines because I wanted a more consistent feel as I ran more laps that's it. Anyone wants to believe brake lines reduce your actual brake distance then your going to have to prove it to me.

First of all, brake lines DO NOT slow your bike down faster. If that were the case then my daily driver would be a braking beast. Stainless brake lines prevent flexing and give you a more linear and consistent feel. If you wanna upgrade the brakes, then you should go with the YFZ calipers since they have one extra piston which will provide more clamping force. After that you should pick up a more aggressive pad that really does some work. Upgrading pads might be all you really need. I don't know why everyone believes this, pic up any motorhead magazine and they will all tell you the same, brake pedal feel is better and brakes are more responsive to inputs. The brake lines have nothing to do with the actual stopping of a wheel. The pads, rotors, calipers, and tires do the work. The nicest thing about the YFZ calipers is they reduce weight.

Yea your local stealership isn't gonna do anything for your cause. My local dealership is a piece of shit, I asked some technical questions and got the googly eyes from them like I had a dick on my face. If anyone ever goes to southern ocean cycle in south jersey, your a bigger idiot then the guy selling you the bike. Starts scouring the hq for stock carbs or hit up ebay.

It depends on what kind of future you are trying to have with your bike, and what you use it for. The most common pipe I seem to see on most bikes is T5s, they seem to be great on stock bikes and work with modified motors. Of course if you build a race motor your gonna want drag pipes, but if you like trailing it and whatnot T5s seem like a good choice. Those are the ones I just picked up for my bike.

So the guy I won the item from hasn't contacted me and I am not sure what the deal is with this deadbeat, I am going to have to retract my money from paypal and go through this whole process again. It doesn't look like I will be able to get my parts to you in time. When you get back though I should have a pair of arms by then. I'll be in touch.

It's called traction, my Banshee, which is all stock for the moment, although I just picked up some T5s but have yet to install it, can barely keep up with my 400EX. YFZs are some of the lightest and quickest of the 450s. I would definitely look into workin on your launch and shaving weight. Banshees are pigs as most of them weigh 60lbs more, that is a lot of extra weight to carry.

Any ideas on which brake lines are required for the swap, as well as raptors and YFZs sharing calipers?

The going price I have seen on YFZ shocks, at least late model 06 and 07 models is 275, and the earlier models are about 200. The older they are, the more worn out they most likely are. If your buddy has pics of them I would definitely be interested in taking a look at them. 2003 Limited, I found a set of YFZ arms off a 07 on ebay and won the bid for 180 dollars shipped, and now I am waiting on them to get in my possession. Once I receive them I will contact you and we can set something up and go from there. Ebay has actually had some good looking arms up for grabs the last few days, I am glad I won my bid.

Thanks for clearing that up... what about brake lines, which bike would I buy them for.... YFZ or Banshee. Also, are the Raptor and YFZ calipers the same? Thanks for the help.

I am trying to get a YFZ front end, and through all the reading and searching I have done, I have also found out that the YFZ brakes work on Banshees. Here is my questions: 1. Since I am moving to using YFZ spindles, do I need YFZ hubs? 2. Using YFZ hubs, would make it easier to mount calipers or no? 3. Are the YFZ brake rotors the same as Banshee rotors? 4. Are YFZ calipers and Raptor calipers the same? I keep finding Raptor ones also shown as YFZ ones. 5. What brake lines should I use with a COMPLETE YFZ front end? Sorry for so many questions, I just don't wanna buy the wrong parts, but I am not finding any of the specifics on what I am trying to do. Any help is greatly appreciated from you guys.

Yea I am trying to locate some touch up paint, but not having any success. I only have pics from a magazine. I wonder if I brought the paint place to the yamaha website and brought up the bike they could do it or not.

Hey I am going to begin the first of most likely many phases for my Banshee as I am tired of the way it looks and feels. I am going to probably strip off the plastics in the next month, but I am trying to locate the color that the new YFZ is painted. It's like a graphite grey, but it has a brilliance to it. I don't mind doing the paint work to the plastics at all, and have the time and resources to do it. Does anyone know of a way to get that color somehow on a index card to have matched or is it possible to buy like touchup paint for it. I am going with a full gray and black scheme so I am gonna powdercoat my YFZ front when I complete the parts list black and probably get black hipers or something with some holeshots and pipes from Toomey should be here tomorrow. Thanks for any help you guys give me.

That's cool, not a big deal. Here is the thing with me, I am kinda picky about my toys, and I am trying to locate the a-arms now, and hopefully I will have a set within the next two weeks. I am very interested in letting you do the service since you already have the bushings and the jigs in your possession. That saves me the time of trying to get it correct. However, I plan on having the arms powdercoated, should I send my parts to you first and get the painted when they return, or should I ship you painted items and then you do the work needed. I am definitely powdercoating the arms because they will look good for a very long time once done. Just let me know what is the better option.

No response.... I guess I will try to locate all parts needed to do the front end off some site or ebay.

How many kits do you have in stock? I am considering ordering a kit. I understand the parts are used, but I am hoping they aren't dented or dinged up. I don't mind scratches, because I will spend the time to powdercoat them.

Disregard this post as I made a very dumb mistake. I just ran out of gas. I must have been out longer than I really thought and my bike ran low. Moderators please close this post.

Now it won't start. Believe me no one is riding my bikes anymore. I am getting my 400 back from the shop with an all new rear end and a lot of new upgrades. I guess I will be dropping my bike off tomorrow and hopefully they can figure it out. Jets seemed fine to me, plugs look ok. Filter is fine. not quite sure what the problem is, I am thinking maybe something electrical. Its just such a new bike that I find it hard to believe that I am already having problems.

Actually there is more oil in a 32:1 mix than 40:1. 40 parts gas to 1 part oil I believe. I also don't hit big mud puddles all the time. I happened to come across an area that looked dried up, but had a little bit of mud in it and since I am a neat freak about my bikes I thoroughly cleaned the underside of the machine. I live in an area that has a lot of sugar sand and loam. It takes a lot of rain to produce mud. There is only one or two places where I live that can produce mud. I have a 4-stroke that I ride as well, so I think I am covered as far as atvs go. So no other ideas on what might be the problem. I also didn't over oil the filter. I am sure of that, I read the directions three times. I am 100% sure this has nothing to do with what style of filter I use. I already have run 32:1 and it ran fine, however under the guidance of several other members and my local shop and the oil manufacturer... in this case Bel-Ray. It is suggested to run 40:1 mix. Bel-Ray suggests any 2-stroke over the engine size of 250cc use 40:1. If I can locate the the filter test I will do it, because if there is a way for me to fit my car filter in my air box it's going in. It's an A'PEXi Power Filter. Wipes the floor with the K&N in every respect. airflow, filtration, and velocity.

It doesn't feel like low compression. Occasionally all the planets will align and the bike will pull hard, but then fall off. I am pretty sure I can rule out jetting, ratio, and compression. This is a bike with 30 hours on it. I am thinking maybe something about the floats, possible clogged jet. Not sure. I don't think K&N are good filters at all. Their filtration isn't good at all. There is a company that makes filters for cars that has a filter that is maintenence free. Filters more dirt, and has a higher airflow. K&N isn't a good filter in my opinion. I would rather use foam. They are so much easier to clean.

I am not positive about jetting, I bought the bike with the little mods it has. I didn't think I over oiled the filter at all, I was thinking of adding more. I already mentioned 40:1 as my premix. I bought the bike with the silencers. I am planning a whole round of mods. Filter is K&N oval, which I plan on replacing with something foam. Box is stock. Anyone else have any other questions.

what are these pods that people keep referring to. I have a K&N on my bike and it's going in the trash. Any pics