bbcmudtruck

Check with www.farmandsandtoys. I think they sell a rear rebuild kit for a few bucks more and it comes with new bolt. Might as well spend another $5 bucks and rebuild it, or keep the extra parts on hand for when its time to rebuild it.

I took an old upper A-arm bolt and beat them out. Its kinda tricky, but the only way to get them out it to get a punch or long bolt to catch the lip of the bearing, and then beat the crap out of it. Its a pain in the ass for sure.

Well I have no doubt that Silva could deliver a beat down, but he chooses to dance around and act like a clown instead.

I honestly don't even care to watch Silva fight anymore.

Call the builders that sponsor the site. I'm willing to bet that one of them has a good used crank they could sell you.

If your gauge is accurate, your way low on compression and more than likely will need a bore and new pistons. The first thing you need to do is order up a clymers manual. It has step by step instructions on how to properly maintain your banshee, inside and out. As far as the shifting issue goes, it could be several things. You would have a bent shift fork, a chipped gear, or as easy as the eccentric screw out of adjustment.

You deffinately need an override. You can do all the transmission tricks and still won't be able to shift under a load. Give Cameron at Redline Racing a call. His duneables are very very strong and reliable.

Absolutely easier to work on, nowhere near as reliable.

Here ya go, just saw these on another site. Depending on how much you weigh, this is a good deal. http://forums.atvdragracers.com/topic/8953-elka-front-shocks/

You may be able to just respring them. Send Elka an email and ask them. I bought my Elkas used, they were setup for a 165lb rider, I weigh 225. I called Elka and all I had to do was replace the main springs with heavier ones, $100 bucks shipped.

I keep my sockets in the trays that they come in. If you go to sears, the sockets are hanging in trays like the one savage, just posted, except they are smaller. I'll take a pic if you need one.

Jesus tits, its like arguing with a 5 year old. We get your point homie, drop it already!

Why don't you guys split a rental. That would be sweet to take the rental out on the dunes!

No, and for three reasons. 1.) You don't own a set of wickeds, you said they "looked" thinner, when in fact they are made identical. Both are made from 4130 chromemoly. 2.) You own Lonestars, which cost nearly twice as much, carry the same warranty, but have no customer service. 3.) You run works shocks, which I thought were absolute garbarge, unless you compared them to stock shocks. Also, your running tripple rates, which is a complete waste on stock travel suspension. Last but not least, you said you had $750 bucks in that setup, and that was used. I would be embarressed to tell people I had that much money in a Works/Lonestar front end, especially a used one! I know, no matter what argument is made, your right and I'm wrong.... But to give out advice that is just wrong, well somebody had to step in and say something.

I'm not going to argue with you, in my opinion you don't know what your talking about... However this guy asked for suggestions in a front end setup. My suggestion would be with out a doubt, +2+1 Wickeds and Stage 2 or 3 Elkas. For the money, you won't find a better suspension combo. Not only for the money, but for your riding style. You wouldn't benifit from long travel at all. As far as a rebuilt stocker goes, I've had nothing but nightmares with mine and have invested far too much into it. There is no way I would recomend investing into a rebuilt rear over an Elka.

If you are testing it while the cases are split, you need to spin the crank or out put at the same time. If you keep the trans moving while you shift, you should be able to shift through the gears just fine. Check for chips in the teeth or debri, if you have neither, your trans should be fine.

Why?

Get a set of Wicked arms and a set of stage 2 or stage 3 elkas. Then get invested into a rear Elka, again stage 2 or 3. Your going to have quite a bit of money invested, but said and done, you will have nearly the best combo available for your bike. Not having resis might be ok for some people, but if I didn't have the ability to adjust and tune my shocks to my riding style, I would go nuts. Also, look into a -1 swing arm. A shorter swinger greatly increases the way the bike handles and flys through the air.

We will be rolling out of Saint Joseph Missouri. The last few years we went, it took closer to 8hrs. Either way, if we roll out at 6am, we will be there right around lunch/beer time.

I would consider this to be the drama.

Thats a pretty nice bike, which forum did you find it on?

My opinion, that guy just saved you some money. Go with Elka, thats the only way to roll! Thanks for serving our country! Airborne Sappers

Your jetting seems to be pretty close to me. First thing you need to do is sync your carbs. Then set your pilot screws at 2 turns out. Try that and see what happens. If the bog is still there, try turning your pilot screws in 1/4 turn at a time. Go out and test ride and see if it gets better or worse after each 1/4 turn.

So far I've heard 10 or 12 paddle extremes. 21x10x8. Anyone else have an opinion?

Cameron at Redline Racing can cut you a good one.