Titan up

Nope still have everything.

$175+ shipping both sets of cylinders and 2 ricky stator timing plates. ***The stators that are attatched to the plates are junk, I just haven't pulled them off yet. The RS stator has a good ignition coil but the lighting coil is smoked*** I had a lightend flywheel come apart at the seams and take out the stock stator, then I bought a new 200watt ricky stator and didn't torque the nut down well enough and it came off and trashed the lighting coil, but the ignition coil still works fine. Rode the remainder of the weekend fine just didn't have lights.

Yea a set of CPI's or Shearer's and you'll notice more pull in your topend. I would keep your swing arm how it is. Extended swing arms make the bike harder to turn and you'll lose traction because the rear tires have no weight over them and less weight transfer to the rear. Longer swingers are only needed in extreme traction situations like drag racing where your getting all your power to the ground and you can't keep the front end down.

When you hear people talking about 4 mils out running 10 mils with "the right setup" there refering to how the chassis is set up to get the power to the ground like for instance: size of paddles, # of paddles, gearing, swing arm length, stretched frame, lightend frame, lock out, overide tranny etc. You should invest in a nice compression tester and see where your at. IMO you if like riding/playing for hours on end and want it to be reliable and fun, run 160-165 lbs of compression and 4* timing, which is proably where your at now with the 20cc's. I run 21cc domes and 4* all day long. I tried 6 and 7 degrees and my plugs backed out twice from the detonation and the bike was noticibly hotter and my pipes discolored. Also running 108 octane.

That sucks man. Do a little detective work and find out his name and address, file a small claim against him and have him served. It might scare him into paying you. AUG '07 last year I ordered engine parts(Cub,pistons,pipes,carbs etc.) from Charlie Ohton/Ohton Racing (owner of Planet Sand) I drove to his house/shop and talked to him personaly,ordered my parts and wrote him a check for $2,250. I was told the parts would take 2 weeks to come in. To make a very very long story short I never recieved a single part or a refund. MAR '08 I sued Charlie in small claims court and one the judgement for $2,250. Once I did that I had my money within 2 weeks.

^^what these guys said. Cascade does stock a shit ton of parts.

I've never popped the top yet on a 5 gallon steel pail of VP C-12 thats been sitting in my garage for about 6 months, enduring extreme phoenix heat btw. I don't know if I should go ahead and burn it in the banshee or just use it for Sobe bombs? :woot:

Get a banshee you won't be disapointed. Less a MX track the banshee will do anything a 450 will do, with twice the fun. You being a 2 stroke guy, you'll appreciate having the banshee and its power delivery, and also the sheer fact that everyone is telling you not to get one :biggrin: Snap some pics and get some more details on that 05 and we'll be able to help ya out a little bit more.

Bump

Proably about 45 hp now. Throw in another 10-15 hp after the porting, and if your cylinders are at .08 over you might want to look into getting another pair. Don't waste your money on having cylinders ported that are .08 over, unless you have the time and know how to port them yourself.

GYTR model looks sweet!! Too bad it's fuel injected. I'm gonna miss that sweet intake "whistle" sound that the FCR carbs make.

Wider beefier steel arms. Wider axle. Fuel injection adds weight with all of its components(fuel pump, ecu, electronics, relays and fuses etc.) I'd bet that solid cast aluminum frame thats bolted not welded together weighs more than the steel frame. Aluminum might be lighter than steel, but you have to use twice the material to make up the strength. BTW I've read the LTR is 416 wet.

3mm carbs damn that bitch is gonna have some topend! cpi or shearer pipes should be 85ish hp.

I have a couple sets of non ported cylinders. 65mm (.04 over) are off my my '04. Some minor cosmetic scratches, nothing you can feel with your fingernail. A hone would probably take care of it, if not they would need a .25mm (.01) bore max. 66mm (.08 over) Don't know what year there off, they were a gift/payment to me. One cylinder has a big groove in the bore. It would probably take atleast .02 to clean up, so I recomend having these resleeved for a big bore kit. $200 shipped for the 65mm $70 shipped for the 66mm I'd do $240 shipped for both pair and I have a RS adjustable timing plate I'll throw in.

Your cub will be a blast up those hills! High H.P. and wheel speed is the key.

It's not that they have no bottom end, it's the the explosive top end that makes them shitty for trails. You'll be spinning out and breaking the tires loose everytime you touch the power band. A cub makes about the same power if not more than an unported stock cylinder, up until about 6500 RPM, then the cub more than doubles its power output from 6,500-10,500 RPM (40ish-90ish HP in that range) Riding trails you want a nice broad linear power curve so your bike will hook up to the ground. Playing in the sand with paddles you'll want the wheel speed. The faster your paddles are scooping sand the faster you'll accelerate, and thats where the cub shines.

I think you could go bigger on the carbs. Your 33's might help the bottem end and have a little more snap, but that cylinder and set pipes would benefit greatly having more air fed to them with the bigger carbs. If you don't already have one, you might consider a modded shift star and the "shift pro kit" that Cascade sells. You don't need an overide either, my bike shifts fine with this mod.

Welcome to the HQ! Make sure to check the diameter of the cylinders, before you buy your pistons because they may not be at the stock bore size.

I have both on my bike and it made a huge difference in the way it shifts. For me it's been a good investment.

Nut hugger cut-off jeans, a flannel, and a pair a flip flops. Nah j/k. Boots, zip-off riding shorts, gloves, and a helmet always.

I bought my banshee brand new and swore up and down the only thing I was going to do was put pipes on it. I even bought T-6 pipes cause I was "never" gonna have it ported. The woman still gives me shit to this day. Now that I have the 450 I can start building the banshee into more of drag/hill bike now :biggrin:

With out a doubt. I made about 15 weekend dune trips on my 4mil cub last season, and I ran the bike 60-75 miles each trip. Still starts first kick. Prolly going to freshin the topend for this season tho. Not to blow my own dick, but I'm always leading and way out in front in my riding group of about 7-8 good riders, on decently built 450's. Tight and technical or wide open bowls. Running about 165lbs comp, 4-6 degrees timing and VP c-12. Runs all day long.

No shit