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Titan up

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Everything posted by Titan up

  1. bansheesandrider, Myself along with 3 good friends will be camping at Gordons Well this weekend..We'll be pullin in this Fri evening the 23rd, no girls just a guy trip, so we're planning on getting some good riding in. You and your bud are more then welcome to join us at our camp....Show you guys around, dune out to patton valley, ride across to buttercup and hit some huuuge bowls on the west end of buttercup. Got the duners diner resturaunt/store/bar right there too.....Let me know if your interested.
  2. Correctamundo on the having to have OHV stickers on our RV plates.. Have to have them to ride anywhere in AZ as well ($25 per yr)........Just a few trips ago, we pull in and start unloading bikes and the BLM roll up on us and start checking for regristration and what not, well my buddies banshee had an expired OHV sticker on the plate (6 months) and they told him if that quad comes off the trailer, they'll impound it.
  3. Ahhhh thee ol' slides in backwards trick....Glad you got it fingered out and props to you for coming back and finishing/putting closure to your thread..So many peeps ask questions to never return.
  4. We're from out of state and we're fine with our own state registration, no special visitor passes...Buy your weekly pass "offsite" for $25 vs. $40 at the dunes......Also if you hit Gordons, the Pair o dice bar/grill changed their name to "Duners Diner" a few yrs ago....Boardmanville is closed and has been for awhile...Wash 10 is blocked off and if you go over the tracks, the rangers will chase you
  5. They don't enforce the spark arrestor rule, 90% of the bikes there don't run them. Get stopped for being a jack ass doing something stupid, then yeah the rangers will start righting tickets for anything they can....Make sure your bikes are registered! You need to display it also on the bike somewhere. In AZ we have "rv" plates that we use..Not sure if Oregon uses plates or stickers? Just make sure It's displayed and visible on your bike. Think about riding at Buttercup too for one of the days. It's literally right off the 8 and the dunes are right there where you park. There's no riding a couple miles to get into the dunes, they're right in your face...It's not nearly as big as glamis but that's actually what a lot of people like about it..It's not so big where you worry about getting lost or having issues breaking down waaay out in the middle of BFE...I mention that because It's just the 2 of you and your not familiar with the area (I did see you have gps though) I am partial to Buttercup, been going there for over 20 years..Our whole group prefers buttercup. We'll hit BC for 3 or 4 trips then the next trip camp across the hwy at Gordons, just for something different, then the next several trips are back at BC...I just like the way the dunes flow on the southern side, we're always in the "good" dunes, the only rutted up stuff is right in the main camping area. Which ever area you ride is going to be Badass! Just throwing my opinion out there.
  6. Nice rigs everyone....Dinner, what kinda times are you puttin down? 1/8, 1/4, 60ft, mph etc...
  7. Go ahead and put the tank on and run the fuel lines like normal with the petcock on. The bowls need to be full of fuel at all times. The amount of fuel in the bowls at any giving time will effect jetting (vacuum related)....I can almost guarantee that's your problem....just trying to start it, your probably running the bowls dry...The 340 mains might be a couple sizes too big, but that wont effect the starting, you can dial that in later.
  8. the main jets only come into play from 3/4-full throtttle, when the bike is actually running. What do you mean it idled until the bowls ran dry and then you put more fuel in the bowls?? Do you have the tank attached with the petcock on? Are your floats adjusted to spec?
  9. Is it a lean bog or a rich bog? You completly disassembled the carbs and sprayed carb spray cleaner through out all the passages and orifices? On paper, your jetting looks very rich from idle to 3/4 throttle...A 58 pilot is pretty big as well as the clip position of your needle..double check float height as mentioned. If your floats are set high, it will run rich.
  10. I prefer Buttercup much more. If I had a sand car I would camp at Glamis, but my crew is all quads and Buttercup is just fine for that..The fence they put up cut into a lot of our riding area, but there's still a lot of nice fresh virgin dunes south from camp....I'm not real big on Glamis. I've only been up there 5 or 6 times, so I don't know where everything is, but it seems like we have to ride way south to find any dunes that aren't all rutted up...We still make the best of it when where there and have a pretty good time...Buttercup on quads is a much better time IMO....There aren't nearly as many "homeboys" down there either.
  11. If your still needing this, you'll probably be about 290-300 on the mains..I would start at 330 and if it sputters at wot, then down to 320 and so on..Better to start rich and work down....needle in middle stock pilot I think is 27.5??
  12. If money is not an option, 20x10x8 7 paddle Haulers for the duner.
  13. Off topic but, did you go to a 4mm cub? if so how does that compare to the drag 4mm stock cyl.
  14. You put the Toomey needles in and it runs lean now?? Ok put the old needles back in... How was your bike running with the stock needles? If your in the middle now, you can lower the clip all the way to the bottom, which would raise the needle all the way up...You say you ride WOT? well then the main would play a bigger role than the needle...I ran 340 mains in my stock carbs in 70* weather, so in freezing temps running at WOT, You might want to be at least 350+ on the mains..
  15. Go ahead and start over....This time give us all the info you have about your bike, the area you ride and anything else you can think of, so that you'll be able To get some answers for the issues your having
  16. There are 3 things to look at on needles....Taper, diameter and a length dim... A "CCL" needle would be a slighter richer needle with the "length dim" being 1.8mm shorter...Each clip position is .9mm apart so in theory this would give you 2 more clip positions..(*I'm not 100% certain about this because the overall length of the needle is the same on ALL of the needles*) thats just the way I interpret the chart. If it were me I would leave the length and dia the same and just increase the taper angle..You'll have more adjustability and it covers 1/4-to over 3/4 throttle....a "D" @ 1* 45' or a "E" @ 2* of taper... So DEL or an even richer EEL needle I think would get you where you need to be. Google Keihin needle charts and you'll see what I'm talking about....My 4mm cub 35pwk's I ran an EEK needle and there was a big difference between the 3rd and 4th clips. Good job tuning and figuring out what you need.
  17. Well if the problem is at 1/4-1/2 throttle, it's not the main...Pilot might be too rich, which you could back the air screws out another turn, to lean it out some..I think most likely it's your needle clip position. The needle is probably rich, but to be safe I always like to prove that out. If it were me I would raise the needle by lowering the clip 2 spots and try that first..I imagine it will make it worse and if it does, then bingo, put the clip one from the top, or even at the top spot, bringing the needle way down and see if that cleans it up. Explain the CFM air box. I don't think I've seen one. How much does it restrict air flow? lid no lid? One big filter, 2 filters?
  18. You can run the slingshot lockup under the stock cover, just grind the 3 nubs off on the inside for clearance..Might be able to get get away with all stock springs, if not 3 stock 3 hd would work for sure.
  19. 28mm would be good or even your stock one's...For trail riding I would run Pro Circuit pipes. They make the most low end power of any pipe on the market If I were in your shoes I would be on the phone with FAST or M&M atv..Those 2 guys have built enough servals, to answer any questions you have. Check the sponsor forum for contact info.
  20. Take the 421 and subtract about 5-7 hp and about 3ft lbs and there's your 392...The smaller motor would have a slightly peakier (if that's a word) power band which may make the situation worse. Like mentioned earlier, it's all about set up and rider ability..The tighter and more technical the terrain, the more this plays a factor.
  21. Well my 535 only made 64hp and it probably cost 3x more to build
  22. Throw a pic of that banshee up, I'll tell you if it's a dune bike or not.. It might be pushing it for what I personally would call a true all day "duner"...Maybe an extreme duner?? ha.. Regardless, that's a pretty potent set up. What does a 10mm cub on gas make? 110-115hp? At what 10-10.5k rpm?? I would much rather have this serval with 10 or so less peak hp, for duning and hill hillshooting. Get crossed up in the whoops, or pull the front wheels too high and have to get out of it for a second, good luck getting back on the pipe...At least the ones I rode anyway. Post a pic of your ride, I'm planning a little trip out there in a couple weeks too.
  23. The Snipers were designed around the 421 cub..They like high port timings.
  24. Umm actually higher octane fuel burns slower.. Have any of you guys seen the "421 serval" thread that has dyno sheets in it showing the PC's doing quite well? What are your thoughts?
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