THE358BANSH

Sorry to hijack, but do you know what Bruce and Al are going to do seeing as they're using pantented "real-time tuning"? Being as Mr.Gasket just got bought out, do you think Prestolite will allow someone to use their technology and not pay them for it? Have you heard anything from around the way?

Would the trade be all intensive? The whole mess to convert my bike back to twins(intakes,cables,etc.) or just the carbs by themselves? I have a trintiy setup with a 39PWK Keihin,and a cable... The whole setup is there, I just have to decide if I really want to part with it.

In my experience, everything that Firehead said would be true. You can play with the PWM's to have a dual injection events or control a huge, piddling injector. But, if your trying to do any fine tuning, there's no point 'cuz it's only a 12X12 table whereas most other system will be at least 16X16 table. And as for Motec, it's the shiznit. IMO, Megasquirt can be a good learning tool to experiment on, but if you want to get serious, your only as good as your hardware...

And I was going to PM you when my stuff was back together, so we could hook it up and go riding on 'Bago.

Would have to agree with you on that one. We just built a motor and the 14-71 LittleField blower consumes almost 600 hp pumping loss.<---------That, is why I like turbos

As of now the are spoken for and being shipped soon.

Everybody has been PM'd.

So I ordered a set three weeks ago, had problems with shipping so they drop shipped a set. Got them and everything went on fine, then today, another set showed up! Their loss is your gain! Part number is 05-5800, 87-06 Banshees, black powdercoat with silver nets, with stainless kick-up footpegs and netted heel gaurds. These suckers haven't even been opened yet! They would make a great late Christmas gift for someone... Here's a link to the part on their site http://acracing.com/itemdetails.cfm?catalogId=49&id=1172 I'm asking $200USD plus shipping to the lower 48.

This is the kind of info I was looking for guys! I've also thought that a +2 would fit me correctly. The brake lines will not be a problem, I have to build some new ones anyways. I've got a single carb on it now, anybody know where I can find a longer throttle cable for a PWK?

Last time I checked, I come here for good banshee advice. If I wanted a 450, I would have bought one. Since I still have something swinging between my legs, I'll keep my 'shee. I wasn't talking about comfy ride, I was looking for rider comfort/position and how it might affect myself seeing as I'm fairly new to the MX/TT crowd.

So I have been tossing around the idea of an extended anti-vibe setup for awhile now. I am trying to get the quad as comfortable as possible now that I've got some greenbacks to do it. I'm about 6'2", running a standard peg position Blackline nerf, with some Moose competition bars. I am trying to get a feeler for how much longer I may need. Unfortunately, no one that I know around me is getting this far into modding the "classics", so I'm going to ask the people I trust. What are some of the combinations that you have liked or disliked?

Thanks for your help through the pm's. I already hydrolocked the shocks up yesterday and it was a b*tch getting the undone. I think a sticky could be arranged if the write up was good enough with some nice pictures. Ill help if you would like.

So I'm trying to rebuild my yfz fronts right now, key word trying :sad: . Got them disassembled, cleaned and ready to put back together, and I realize I don't know how or how much shock oil to refill with. Do I need to purge the resivoir, then fill the body? What gives?

I just bought one also last week. I lost the directions so it made figuring out the snap ring/collar arrangement tricky, but now that it's fit I like it. I'll take some pictures and post up when I get done working on it tonight.

It's actually, .018"-.020" What you typed was one thousandth and eight tenths...

When I got my bike, the gearing was all jacked up at 13-45, setup for shootin hills with a stock motor. So I put a 15 tooth up front and left it for awhile. My first mistake was letting a friend work on her, I ran inside to take a piss and when I can out, he had cross threaded the output so bad it wasn't even fixable. Well, I wanted to ride the next day so I cleaned it up well, grabbed the suitcase TIG, and made that bitch permanent! Everything has been fine up until now, when I ordered a new rear sprocket with 40 teeth. I didn't know that there was a 4 and 6 bolt versions of the sprocket hub, so now I have a 4 bolt hub, and a brand new 6 bolt sprocket! So my question is, should I keep the 4 bolt hub being as I can put smaller sprockets on it? What is the smallest on a stock 4 bolt banshee hub again? I read a bunch of posts and just got even more confused with the honda/yamaha 4 bolt differences. As I am stuck with a 15 tooth sprocket up front, and I've got a new 4mil coming together, I am more concerned with gearing issues and where I should go with them. Sorry for the long post, and thanks for the replies!

Looking to finish up the quad for the first of the year so I can ride the lake. Just in need of a few things to complete the second rebuild. Front and rear shock rebuild kits Rear brake hub and rotor Radiator shroud - carbon fiber or black Gas tank covers - carbon fiber or black Nerf bars - AC ProPeg blackline style Graydon intake? Keihin 39mm carb Pictures are always helpful in making a deal, paypal is a first choice also. Any reasonable offers considered, especially to a fellow hq'er.

He helped me out with almost all the parts for my new 4mil motor. I had some trouble setting up my paypal instant transfer account, which he was more than willing to help/work with me on. Shipping of the head, pistons, cylinders, and other misc. things was absolutely first rate and professional packaging. Everything was exactly as described and nothing was out of order. Thanks again for a great buy!

What is the O.D. of a swingarm bolt on a banshee and what is the O.D. of the tube that the swingarm bearings reside in? Thanks alot in advance!

PM sent!

I guess nothing special, compared to alot of guys around here, 4mil hotrods crank, 795 wisecos, coolhead yet to be cut for the stroker, vf2 reeds, with a single 35 as of right now. I don't know of I want to stay with the single carb as for right now, or even if it will be enough? Oh, and can you see the pictures?

Well guys, I have got my housing built to accept an eccentric carrier, and I think it turned out quite well. It started out as .250" wall, 3.75"OD 4130 chro-moly tube. I had to bore the inner diameter to 3.405" for a 5 thousandths slip fit, then used the rotary indexer on the Bridgeport to cut the clamping reliefs. I am trying to decide on how long I should make the arm. I know that you usually go shorter for trails, which I ride in the summer. During the winter we're out on the lake with bolted tires, when I could see that having a longer duning style swinger would help. Add too the fact that I'm building a new 4mil and I'm confused as hell as to what I should do?

Are the cylinders ported for a stroker?

I guess my whole jist with running alky in the winter is, why? The main reason for the alky is the chemical cooling of the air,fuel,oil mixture. So if the ambient air is already maybe 30 degrees the air will probably offset the cooling effect of the charge. Just my .02...

In the first pic, is the seperation of the Y a sharp divergence? If so, you might want to give her a little bit of roundness to help smooth out the air/fuel/oil mixture.