THE358BANSH

Thanks guys, but that 150 to ship is just too much in my mind. I found one local to me on Ebay and ended up high bidder, thanks again... Evan

Hey guys, looking for a frame just like it says. Preferably in Wisconsin as close to 54165 as possible so I can pick up. Doesn't matter if it's A-arm or J-arm because I'm going to cut the frontend off to do a LT setup. As long as it's not wadded up or tweaked really bad, it'll do the job just fine. Pm me to discuss please and thanks, Evan

The steering isnt too bad, I just dropped the coloumn in the firewall about 1.5" or so. That picture was from when it had a manual box. Since then, I put a narrowed mustang II rack in it, and dropped the motor 4 inches down and 2.5 inches back. The coloumn exits the firewall in the same place as before, but the shaft goes in between 3 and 5 primaries just for distance reference. If the motor is in the right spot, you can almost always get away with a one piece steering shaft. Evan

Ask and you shall receive...

Funny thing is, no one realizes how huge the front end really is til they get some scale...I personally can't stand the assymetrical trophytruck design mainly because of the looks, and a few other design details like the loooong bolt through the spindle, but it seems to get the job done. And a few more imitators... And it even has billet arms...

BBC S10s are soo much fun! The fenderwells are the way to go, make life so much easier. Below is a set that I built last year, 505 inch, th350, nine inch rear, backhalf truck that goes 9.6x all day long... Evan

Ray, I'm going to need a stock stator with no plate shipped ground to 54165. I looked in your store and didn't find any, hoping you just did't list one. Send me a PM ASAP. Thanks, Evan

You have a PM.

Thanks for the info, I'm going to go do a compression test again to see where I sit and go from there...

Just to clarify, are the lines for a +2" stock arm? They will also fit a YFZ setup then correct? Evan

I knew I forgot something when I made that list, Toomey T5s I know that the carb is too big. That is the only reason why I can justify such a large jet and getting the plug readings that I did. To make some reason, large carb is going to equal a lower velocity which will pull less fuel therefore needing the larger than normal jet. Just referencing general carb theory there though... The carb actually came on the bike when I bought it, and it ran well, but nothing crazy. I have been contemplating going to a dual setup in the spring, and mainly just wanted to see how it would perform. I went through the harness tonight, added some star washers on the grounds and then got to my flywheel/stator. I had a local machinist lighten it a few years back, and he must have gone a little too far. I don't know why it came apart just now, maybe the weight of the magnets fatigued the thin metal or something. Just a few chunks of magnets/metal disappeared off the inside of the flywheel, so that is going to be prime suspect number one for now. How many kick are you guys ending a compression check after? I have yet to find a definate answer for the two stroke stuff... Thanks guys, Evan

That was one of the first things I tried after I noticed how much better the quad ran with the way smaller plug gaq, didn't seem to make a noticeable difference. I only have one carb?

Well guys, I took my toy over to Janssen tonight to play on their dyno. Specs are below. Warmed it up, changed the oil, filled with some fuel, and gave her hell. The BR8ES were gapped at .028", mixed 32:1 with Amsoil Dominator/93 octane pump fuel. It was a little lazy from 1/4 to 3/4, and in the upper range, 7-9k, it broke up extremly bad. With the wierd misfires, the motor revved really smooth to 6-7k, then fell on it's face breaking up with a few little puffs of black out the pipes and tried to climb to 9k. I went down on the needle, upped the main to a 235, and tightened the gap to .018"(shot in the dark). She ran much smoother, all the way through the rpm range and we cut the pull at 10k with only 2 wierd puffs at the end. Played with needle and pilot stuff for awhile, and then came back to WOT long pulls. I looked at the plugs, and they were hairline lean for my liking, so we drilled a jet to approximatley 245 main. Power fell off by about 1.5 in the top, which I was expecting, so I tossed a 238 back in for the rest of the session. I still am having troubles with the intermittent misfire(puffs) though. So far I have checked/changed, Plug wires-Had MSD 8.5mm Superconductor, went to a stock style copper core, didn't make that much of a difference. Swapped side just to check, no different results. Fuel delivery-Eliminated the petcock/tank with an IV style gravity tank, first two pulls were damn clean(best numbers so far i think), on the third the misfire returned, maybe sucking the bowl dry but that doesn't make much sense, or maybe just coincidence? Spark-Hooked up an inductive light and watched it when I had the problem, still had spark to my eye when the misfire occured. Plugs-I was using BR8ES most of the night, tried a non-resistor B8ES in combo with the IV fuel tank at the end, results same as two lines above. So guess my questions are, Are any of you guys having to run such a small plug gap to combat major misfiring in the topend? I have never had a bowl run dry on me before, and I imagine it to be like hitting the kill switch wide open? Offer up any other ideas, I'm open to suggestions... I'm going to go through my harness and check for clean grounds/electrical issues tomorrow night, give it a good once over to see if I can find anything out of the ordinary and report back. 385cc 4mil stroke 65mm bore 4mil play port by FAST Cases match ported 21cc domes by Noss machine at 175psi<-----Does that seem a little high to you? Vforce3s Graydon style intake 39mil PWK, 238 main,EEG needle third clip,62 pilot Huge ass K&N with a drywear Stock coil with factory style copper core wires Plugs gapped to .018" Timing plate set a 0 degrees for now Ricky stator 200watt<-----Seems a lot of discussion about these lately, anyone have a stocker laying around the want to give me?

It may be not "needed", but it is the correct way to complete a wiring job that will withstand the rigors of time/weather/grime. The whole whole shebang for weatherpack/metripack/amp/duetsch/sparkplug crimping dies will go about 170 bones, but once you use them you will never go back. I just started to rewire my complete quad front to back tonight. Funny thing is, it all started with a blown headlight bulb. I left all the components in the stock locations mainly because I am used to them there and I hate working in tight quarters. I ended up ditching all of the TORS, thumb switch, key, headlight dimmer switch, and stock kill switch. The headlights are now hot while the engines on, and all off/run duties are handled thru a tether. The whole system is ran in UL1426 marine grade wire and terminaled with WeatherPacks. It's turning out pretty sweet. I should be done with it later today, I could post some pictures if anybody wants...Evan

I choose the Pro circuit pipes with dual 28mm mikuni flatslides, vf3 reeds, and 19cc domes for chart 3 because of the curve still having a "true" powerband per se. The domes and reeds are definately going to help the midrange, but at around 6750 rpm, when the motor starts to scavenge itself those mikunis really help it pull out the top. I chose the Pro circuit pipes with single 35mm pwk, vf3 reeds and 19cc domes for chart 2 because of the main reasons stated above, except for the fact that the motor has an extremely constant pull from the bottom to the top. I think it would probably be my bike of choice just for the fact, it's easier to put the power to the ground without that huge power spike, and I try to use different rpms to my advantage and that torque curve just screams I want to be ridden. I chose the dynoport 2 into 1 pipe with single 35mm pwk, carbon tech low reeds, and 20cc domes as chart one mainly because Im not the familar with the Dynoport. The 20cc domes aren't helping in the midrange, but the power delivery is smooth and gradual. I believe the Dynoport was marketed alone the same lines as the 2:1 carb kit(I don't know for sure though), and the curve looks like you could ride it all day and not have your arms feel like jello. Kind of a left field guess for me in the end. Evan

The first is a single carb and the second is a dual Mikuni setup. When it comes down to it, it's all about area under the curve and how that matches your riding style. It's nice to see an open discussion and listen to peoples thoughts, and not just hear, "You HAVE to get the red boostbottle, +5hp!" and so on...Evan

I was looking at it for after the christmas funds get squared away, seems to be a well used and versed valve kit for the diy'er. You can get it 10 bucks cheaper here though...http://www.powersportsuperstore.com/Race-Tech-GOLD-VALVE-KIT-ATV-REAR-Gold-Valve-Offro-p/tr77-1887.htm

Got any pictures? Are you still hand finishing the ports after your final cut? What machine are you using? Is core shift in stock cylinders a problem at all? Seems like it may be more of a PITA than it's worth in an r&d enviroment.

Well guys, I figured I would add my two cents into this topic. I bought a GForce about a year ago when I built my swinger. I didn't actually get the bike out until a month or so ago. I was running her around my hayfield behind the shop, did like 3 20 minute heat cycles for the motor. On the fourth heat cycle, I was starting to run her harder and sliding into corners and stuff like that. Pitched it into the last long sweeping corner and it swung out, so leaned back onto the outside back tire for some traction. All of a sudden there was a loud metal on metal noise, the quad started to three wheel, and I looked back and saw my brand new Hiper and half of my axle tumbling away...Anyways, called RockyMountain on Friday afternoon and they said the warranty people were all ready done for the weekend and I would get a call on Monday. Saturday morning I get a call saying to send the axle back and they will replace it as long as I pay shipping. 14 dollars later I have a brand new axle, new hardware, new locknut, everything. Their customer service was second to none on this one. GForce and RockyMountain get two thumbs up on this one from me. Ill post some pics when I get a chance of the axle. Evan

Just like the title says, I am looking for some sources for the short 2.25" ID rear tender springs. The smallest length that I could find so far is 5 inches. I know they are available, becuse all of the big boys are building shocks with them, but where are they getting them?

No, your little fingers must be quicker than my fat ones... :biggrin:

My factory wiring diagram is showing the Coil negative goin staight to chassis ground. :thumbsup:

Did you check all of your resistances throughout the bike? Primary coil- .28-.38 ohms @68 degrees Secondary coil- 4.7-7.1 Kiloohms @68 degrees Source coil(Green to Red)- 13.7-20.5 ohms @68 degrees Pickup coil(White/Red to White/Green)- 94-140 ohms @68 degrees

I guess I must not have explained what is in my head the way it needed to come out. When your on you VE table or 3D map, and you hit shift up or shift down, then hit F10(or whatever key MS uses) and the USB cable transfers that data into the box and a change in the injection events happens, is what Accel refers to as "real-time tuning". They have a patent on being able to change the VE values whilst the engine is running and having the data transfer and take effect without having to switch the ignition off. This is one of the reasons why Alan Dudely's MFI system is so popular right now with some of the big time racers. It eliminates the whole process of real-time tuning and therefore is almost a "bridge" between low buck and high dollar systems. While I really don't have much experience with MS, I do have enough information to let my brain scatter with different ideas and how it can be beneficial to myself and the shop. I really don't have anyone around town to discuss this with and thought you may have some pertinent information on the subject, and that is why I asked. And also, I am imagining that MS use a percent value for the AFR targets? If so, what do you normally tune into for a range? As for Firehead, I will agree that there is almost no reason tune "on the fly", but I think that our perceptions on the definitions of real-time tuning may have been different, thus leading to our confusion. It's definatley good to have a few people around here with multiple levels of experience so that we can share some knowledge, even though I feel bad for Streetshee for the huge hijack...

I would have absolutely no idea where to find something like that on the internet. They don't have the ability to tell you what you can or cannot tune while driving, they have a patent on the components and software that allows you to "real-time tune". We've been talking about it lately around the shop, because we're WD for Accel DFI. I really don't knows the specifics of it, but when all of the big names sell a box, they have to cut a check to Prestolite(Mr.Gasket). Dunno how much money or things like that, but I'm just seeing if anybody else hase some info, 'cuz I've had a cheap M-S project in the back for a while now. Thanks for the compliments on the "rotating acoustical absorbers", they are kinda like two tig 'ol bitties!