Whitbread

Interested in selling just the front a arm skids?

What brand is that radiator? Have a thickness measurement handy?

McMaster Carr P/N 5972K243. Tapped right into my case with no machining needed. Lathe end of the shaft down to a .001" press fit for the ID of the bearing. Don't worry about the hole. You'll remove it. Be sure to take a .020" pass before you start cutting the bearing groove. That way the shaft is resting on the bearing and not won't drag on the bore when it's back in the case.

Just read over the whole thread, I'm so glad to see someone do this with microsquirt! I've had a set of R6 throttle bodies sitting around for this project exactly. I bought them back in 2010 off fleabay for $9 and change shipped. Figured I couldn't go wrong at that price even if they ended up as a wall decoration. Life got busy and I was out of the banshee world for a few years till a month or two ago. I was seriously contemplating a Smartcarb after reading all the reviews, but considering what the last few years have taught me, I'm seriously thinking EFI as it won't be that much more than a new carb setup. Just more work obviously. I have used (but good) wideband 02's from customers vw's laying around, a good cannondale fuel pump off a buddies bike when he was chasing power problems, GM/LS electrical parts laying around like beer cans, and my bike already has a dc conversion with a battery..... Damnit. Looks like the writing is on the wall now. I think I'll start mocking things up tonight instead of working on customer projects, need a change from turbo diesels anyway. I'm sure I'll be contacting you once I get the setup together for tuning and calibration tips. I'll have to make it up your way sometime for a ride and donation of few cases of beer! BTW, that dyno graph of the pathetic 44hp is mine haha. Bike was down to 100psi of compression and had butchered cylinders that a 2 year old could've ported better. It's basically been sitting ever since, I think i took out for 2 or 3 afternoon rides in the last 3 years for the hell of it. Never realized how crappy that motor was inside till I tore it down the other week. Finally getting the love it deserves now with lots of upgrades!

Im in :-)

Pull one of the ball joints and measure the threads on the a arm end. If the threads are M16x1.5, it's probably a Moog ES2074R. I'll measure the taper dimensions of my spare when I'm at my shop tomorrow and post up.

I've been super happy with my PT high rev's. Bike came with fmf fattys and was decent, went to PC's and got much better, then went to the PT high revs and was wayyyyyy better. It has great low end and when I dyno'ed, it only lost ~8 hp from peak to when I let off at 11Krpm. Aside form the power, I really like the expansion chamber being tucked up front instead of right next to your calf/knee; it's saved many burnt boots and pants.

My set of .040 overs just showed up, here's some pics for anyone curious to see them in the flesh.

My bad, I stand corrected. Too many german names and acronyms on the brain (I own a european automotive performance shop). 5 o'clock was a few hours early today .

These are definitely forged. They do make cast also. Wossner is WSM if I recall correctly. Don't know on hours, but probably 2500-3000 miles if I had to guess. That's how many miles are on my arctic cat 4x4 and it's seen about the same amount of butt time. These are the exact ones in the pics I bought from TDR http://www.bansheedepot.com/proddetail.asp?prod=16-5788

Here's pics of 6 years worth of abuse on my wsm's

I just tore my motor down as it was so low on compression I don't know how it still started. 6 years of hard riding on the top end and it looks perfect, just well worn. Had the WSM forged pistons in there running 95% klotz r50 at 50:1. I'll snap some pics at the shop this afternoon. I already bought a .040 over set of forged WSM's to go back in the motor Now I just need to get the crank rebuilt or buy a new one as the big end bearings are as loose at a $2 hooker.

I'm running 2 of the single 10W LED lights from Vision X I got through Snop and they're stupid bright. Just a dc conversion is all that is needed with them. Best $200 I've spent in a long while. All my friends say they can see their shadow in their headlights if I'm behind them. I'll eventually put 2 more on the bars. That should be retarded bright.

You can shorten it and add a roundhouse carrier easily at the same time. JJ&A racing has the tubes for cheap. I shortened this one by about 3/4".

Yup, that rectifier is all you need with the floated ground. I would suggest a battery though. Otherwise, you have to idle it up a little to keep the lights from flickering. Each light only draws 10w and your stator puts out ~50-60w of lighting power. So even 4 lights will work easily with a stock stator. I have one euro and one spot mounted in stock locations on my bike and these are my recommendations; - if doing 4 lights (as I plan to do eventually) - put 2 euro's in the stock location and 2 spots on the handlebars - if doing 3 lights - 2 euros on stock places and 1 spot on the handlebars The euro floods enough and when traveling at a decent clip, I find myself wishing for a little more distance light that turns with the handlebars. But none the less, I absolutely love these lights. One of my favorite mods by far.

That's very interesting. Closer firing pulses would make the engine run and the power delivery be smoother. I may have to send them an email... Off topic, but that rs500 bike they build is straight up sex on 2 wheels .

Thanks for the information, I wasn't aware of the difference. When you inspect and measure numerous sets of race pistons every couple weeks, mic's don't lie and you get a good sense of who makes a good piston. I've seen and mic'ed more than a couple sets of 2 stroke WSM pistons and they've always been perfect. I can't say the same for wiseco. Midlife: Always send your pistons with the jugs to be bored. Tolerances must be adjusted for forged vs cast pistons. I know of quite a few shops that won't hone a cylinder without a piston in hand.

WSM is Wossner GmbH in Germany. They make pistons for Porsche, Benz, BMW, Ferrari, etc, and make pistons for the high end aftermarket. I prefer them over Wiseco myself. I've also used them in a couple vw and audi motor builds with very good success. The germans make some good shit. http://www.woessner-...dexenglish.html

If you ride the same place and same weather all year round, then I agree, you shouldn't have to pull plugs often. However, almost every time I go riding, I'm at different elevations and very different weather conditions. So I have to check plugs and usually rejet every time I ride. Getting plugs out of a hot motor is a very large concern to me. Right now, my bike is jetted for 1500ft and 0*F from when I was in the UP of michigan riding over new years. I'm going riding this weekend at 800ft and probably 30*F back here in ohio.

Let's see some pics! I'll try to snap some pics of my 10w vision x led headlights I got from Snop for comparison.

Not the prettiest thing in the world but it holds 2.5 extra gallons and works great.

And those things are stupid bright . I get "what the hell are those?!" every time I turn them on.

Yeah, the light color looks like a 6000k hid also. They're bright enough that whenever I ride behind trucks or buggies at night, they have to turn their mirrors down haha. Nope, still stock stator. Since they only draw 10w a piece, you can easily run 4 or 5 on a stock stator if you really wanted.

The first time you change spark plugs or try to shut off fuel on a hot motor, you'll love the layout of the pt's. I've been running mine for well over a year in very rocky terrain and can't find any dents in them. They really don't hang out as far as it looks in pictures. Ebay or the classifieds here are your best bet.