Whitbread

Hard to measure gains on a completely new motor setup. It rips ass better than my old setup did that's for sure. Major benefit here for non boosted guys is once it's tuned, you never touch it for weather, elevation, or running e85. Yup, just tell my how much boost you want to run and I'll supply the correct map sensor and set up the ecu for it. You're supported up to 44psi on a 4 bar.

If this is in the wrong spot, feel free to move it Tyler. Ok, so now that I got my bike running on EFI, how much legit interest is there in a semi diy kit? This is for real, no zilla promises here. I've had a few people contact me and if there's enough, I'll work with other vendors to supply some of the fabbed parts and make a kit in under 2 years. Kit would consist of; -Modded throttle bodies with injectors, new manifold boots -KN filters with outerwears -Billet intake manifold from whoever wants to mill it. Going to reach out to Mattoon and Chariot and see who's interested. -Microsquirt unit pre loaded with base file to get it running -Waterproof relays -LS Coils, pigtails, bulk plug wire, and ends -CTS, IAT, and MAP sensors with pigtails -Electrical and vacuum diagrams -Small AGM battery -Battery box/ecu mount from JD's -Fuel pump, fuel line, and filter -Stock flywheel with 36-1 trigger wheel installed. Would be an exchange basis. -Optional flex fuel sensor -Normally open kill tether -Innovate LC-1 wideband -Technical support -New fuel petcock with integrated return setup. Will eliminate reserve feature, sorry. End user would be responsible for sourcing Suzuki LTR450 throttle housing and throttle cable, putting 02 bung in pipes, DC conversion (100+W stator recommended), and connecting wires according to labels and included diagrams. As for cost, looking at roughly $1400 to your door for everything above, hopefully less if deals can be made. If you want to source any of your own parts to save money, feel free. Would look something like this So, is there enough interest for me to send drawings to get quotes for milling an intake?

Dammit, where were these stock/4mil stroke PV cheetah/Trex's 8 months ago!? I would've bought this in a heartbeat instead of doing all the work to my stock cylinders. Well anyway here's a free bump!

Hey Bryan, didn't realize you were on here! I hear you on that, I do alot of 02J/02M/01E transmissions and it's downright crazy what some people think is enough packaging for a 100+ pound item.

I had a boss clutch basket that lost 2 fingers and had 4 more halfway cracked off after ~3 months of use. Motor was only making 45hp so no excuse there. Called boss as it was supposed to be "unbreakable", was basically told sorry about your luck and have a nice day. So, my taste with them is rather sour to say the least. I have a JJ&a carrier in my roundhouse converted stocker.

When I went from stock to works steeler's and had the rear re sprung/valved it was a total world of a difference. I can't wait do build my LT front end with some elka's/axis/floats. Can't ride fast if you can't hang on! I have stage 4 elka's on my arctic cat 700 two seater 4x4 and holy crap. It went from riding like an empty 1 ton truck to a lazy boy on wheels. Best single mod to that thing other than the turbo. Float Evols, Custom Axis, Works black widows, or Elka's are all on the same quality/performance level. Buy the best you can afford.

Sorry guys, I'm definitely out for this one. I'll be ready for the next one with the banshee instead of the smokey cat!

Why not run a 36-1 wheel and run ignition through ms with LS coils? I'll happily share my cad drawing with you for my 36-1 wheel that fits over the factory flywheel with .005" lathed off.

My cylinders were originally supposedly drag ported by lakes motorsports by the PO. When I finally tore it down, yikes is all I have to say. A kid with a dremel probably could've done a better job. Was very rough overall, transfers in cylinder weren't touched, and exhaust port was only raised about 5°.

What's your budget? Plain and simple, you get what you pay for. If you have $450 to spend, float your ground,get a trail tech rectifier, add a small agm battery (can be had for under $30 on eBay), and a pair of vision x light cannons or Baja designs squadron lights if you want a slightly smaller package. Both are led so you don't need to upgrade your stator. I've seen both first hand at night and the output is incredible. Lights are just like good suspension, ride once at night with them and you'll wonder how you ever rode without them.

I'm a new vitos stock stroke crank, it looks plenty stout. I'll be giving it a good test soon enough! Yeah, its made overseas, but so are Bosch and Holset.

Hell yeah! Nice work man. Been working on my microsquirt setup for too long now. Setting motor in frame to weld on coil and fuel pump mounts as i type .

Not everyone here is a drag racer, that's why. Mine is setup for woods/open fields/100+ mile trail trips. I want the widest, smoothest powerband possible with the best chance of reliability when I'm 100 miles from home, not the most HP possible or fastest 300' time. A 4mil smallest bore sized twister small block with pv's would be my exact choice if Louie would make it for me. No nicasil to deal with in case of shit happening, no random casting porosity like pv cheetah's have every now and then, and basically the same cost. Should be around 100hp easily with a super wide powerband. I could build it with the compression in alky territory and dial my timing way back to keep knock at bay (can even run knock sensors if I want), then dump in e85 and let microsquirt wake it the hell up in the extremely rare event I end up a drag strip. MS has built in support for a flex fuel sensor and will automatically change timing and fueling maps for those who aren't familiar with it.

After doing triples on mine, I don't see how you could do any passage larger than 3/16" to 1/4" TOPS without welding. There just isn't that much meat in there to leave any wall thickness without welding. After doing it, I'm just going to buy triple exhaust cylinders next time unless these run like the best thing since sliced bread. I really want to do a PV motor next time around though. Wonder if twister would do a pv small block....

I'll talk to my buddy and see if he's willing to split driving, my car is kind of a pain to drive with low compression, big turbos, and a really heavy clutch. I'll try to make this still work! I have a friend in Logansport, IN, see if I can crash at his place friday night to break up the drive there at least.

DAMNIT! Why didn't anybody say this was easter weekend? I had no idea till I reminded the girlfriend of the trip today, needless to say I was reminded my presence is expected at both family dinners . As I'm the only gearhead in either family, no one else understands riding. Being 6 hours away, I'd have to leave at 8am on sunday morning to even try making it back in time. Next time guys, sorry!

And I'll be putzing on my diesel cat right next to the gator haha. She only tops out at 45, but it'll pull a house down .

I'm still in, will be bringing a buddy on a 400ex. My banshee isn't done yet so I'll be on my big diesel cat and keeping out of any drags Haha.

Price on top end? Or is that not part of the part out?

I'm in. If hell freezes over and I don't get the banshee together, I'll bring my big cat and smoke the place out (it's a turbo diesel).

Still got the t-rex kit? I'm very interested.

Glad to hear you're getting these going again Brandon, I've been waiting to order a gear and pump from you since the summer. My stock parts are trashed so no point in putting stock stuff back in.

I'm in for badlands and silver lake trips. Got my 30mpg tow rig all sorted out so I'm down for some fun. Should have efi setup and running by march.

I'm not saying PC isn't nice and durable, I PC stuff all the time for various projects around the shop. I'd just like to see any bike powdered/painted/plated take 3 or 4 long weekend trips riding in rocky mountain terrain and still be perfect. When rocks and steel quad parts meet, whatever is in between them loses.

Prep properly, then use either POR15 or a good self etching primer, the topcoat with 2 coats of implement enamel (get it at tractor supply or any farm store). Powder is pretty, but all my buddies that powdered their frames/a arms are look like shit after a few rides and you can't touch it up like you can with paint. Por15 and implement enamel are as tough as paint gets. I'd rather put the money saved towards motor/suspension mods.