96_banshee_96

Well went to fire up thie shee about 20 mins ago and shee purs like a kitten. I let it idle for 20 mins and right now its cooling. Then im going to let it idle for another 20 and take a cruse on it but take it easy on it. Does this sound correct.

LOL....I bet he was like WTF!!! Its a bad feeling when you go to start the shee and it wont fire.

I did some searching with the search mode and read about the little black box and to unplug it.I kicked it over and I have spark. Just came in from the garage to tell you guys I figured it out and saw this post. So you were right on it was the little black box. Now I just have to wait untill morning to see if it will actually fire. My neighbors are old as hell and I dont want them to start bitching because it is late. Thanks for all the input fellas.

tors was removed when i bought the bike blown up. I have not cut any plugs off the wires.

Hahaha I wish it was that easy. I just put in a new trued and welded crank and had the cylinders bored .040 over and new wiseco pistons. I bought this bike blown up. I assume the tors was installed correctly because it looks just like my 96 and it had to of worked right for the previous guy to blow the motor up. What do I have to look for while going thru the harness. Also I did look in the on/off switch to see if something was disconected but it wasnt, but again I wasnt sure what I should have been looking for in there. How do I rule out if it is a bad key switch or kill switch? Nothing looks broke. Is there a way to bypass them

Went to go fire up the freshly rebuilt 87 shee and no sparky!!! I took the coil off my 96 that I know works and still no spark. Im stumped what should I do next?

Damn A lot of mixed views on the subject. Guess I will do the first 20 min cycle let it cool. Then warm it up and take it for a cruze. Im not going to rip on it just ride it a little bit.

Sounds good... Cant wait to fire this beast up

Got my 87 shee all ready to go. Now its time to break in the motor. What is the correct way of doing this. I know you have to mix the gas rich for the first few times I was going to mix at 25 to 1. How should I start the break in process and how long before I can rip on it?

Awesome seller here. Would do business with again. Thanks Mike

Will you sell the seat cover separate?

I got my 87 shee put back together and I need to know where I should position the needle clip. FMF fattys Bored .040 Stock carbs K&N filter with the whole box cut off so its just a open 2 into 1 K&N filter 300 main 27.5 pilot I believe that the needles in the carbs are stock because there are only 5 groves on them. It has 5N7 marked on the needle. Im from michigan im not sure on the elivation (sp?). I was hopeing someone from michigan could chime in on this one.

If you ever decide to part out the builder bike pm me a price on the pipes...

Yes I hate mine too but I dint buy them they came with the bike and I guess they beat stockers. They leak oil all over the place and my motor looks like shit. I was actually thinking of adjusting them to where they worked the best and welding them bitches shut.

True true but like the others said its kind of cheap insurance. I guess I dont need a flywheel puller but I would still need a impact gun to get the nut off which I dont have. Its cool thow WALLACE84 is going to use his impact gun to get it off, I will probly take a cruze over there sometime tomorrow. I would rather be safe than sorry If the flywheel ever did come off.

Damn this shit is killing me. When I first asked if it was ok that I dint use lock tite and the frist couple people said that I was good to go, I was like hell yea peace of mind. Just spent all this loot on the rebuild and $30 on this leak down tester $100 something on a torque wrench now I have to get a impact gun and flywheel puller too, man this is breaking my pocket. I think I will try to get a hold of a flywheel puller and torque wrench from a buddy and If I cant Im going to take my chances running it like it is now ::

Damn... I guess I will be taking those nuts off and put some blue lock tite on them. Im about to buy a flywheel puller because WALLACE84 took mine off last time when we were working on it. Do I have to have a impact gun to get it back off or could I strong arm it with a socket wrench.

Both of them or just the flywheel side. Looks like I will be puting some on.

Ok cool tomorrow it will go back in the frame after the leak down test.

Just put my motor back together a couple days ago and was wondering if I should have used lock tite on the flywheel nut and idle gear nut. I torqued everything to spec and the manual that I used did not say to put lock tite on these ones. I just read the thread in the product reviews section on how the RS flywheel poped off and it made me think twice now that I got it all back together. What do you guys think? Should I be good to go or should I have put some lock tite on them?

I have toomeys on my adjustible LRD's and they work fine...

Hey man dont know if you saw over in my thread a few down from this one how I did mine.I put my front sproket on, put it in 6th gear and bunched up the chain like it was going to break the cases. I dint want all that pressure on my cases so I put a rubber squige that I use to tint car windows with between the cases and chain to absorb some of the pressure. I torqued it in 10lb increments and it worked like a charm.

I dint buy the tool. All I did was bunch the chain on like it was going to break the cases, But I put my rubber squegie thing i use to tint windows between the case and the chain to take the pressure off the case. Put it into 6th gear and torqued it very slowly 10lbs at a time worked fine for me.

Bought a stock cylinder head off him. He also threw in some outer wears for free. Fast shipping. Overall great transaction :thumbsup:

Sent a PM thanks...