blaster668

Possibly LA Sleeve cylinders? Is it a monoblock, or two separate cylinders? Pics would be great.

Ok, I think I came up with a better answer for ya. Here is a website that is for a Kawasaki Vulcan streetbike, but is a good general rule of thumb for torque specs on all fasteners. They list the radiator hose clamps as requiring 22 in lb of torque. 24 in lb would be 2 ft lb. http://www.gadgetjq.com/torquesettings.htm

Yeah, it's pretty much a common sense thing.....I bet if you look around somewhere on the net you'll be able to find torque specs for a few automotive radiator hose applications. You could probably use those numbers if you are still uncertain about your common sense...lol

Just measure the damn stroke, it's really simple. No need to be fighting over casting numbers or stampings.

I'm not sure, but you may be able to use a smaller car battery charger, the voltage would be even a little higher, but it should supply a lot higher amperage. I think the higher voltage will just spin a dc motor faster, if I remember correctly. One other thing to remember is that most of these radio shack type convertors do not supply a very clean dc power. I'm not sure if the battery charges do or not.

I imagine your main problem is that the convertor you bought doe not supply enough current to run the motor. I imagine that motor would run on 12 volt dc without a problem, I'm not positive on that though so you may want to check into it a little more. Maybe try using a car battery if 12v will work, while using a multimeter to determine what current the motor is actually drawing. That will help you find a convertor that will meet your requirements.

You should be able to measure your stroke pretty easily. 4mm is easy to read even with just a ruler. Just mark where your piston is at TDC in the cylinder, and at BDC. Then measure between the marks... not a perfect measurement but it should be close enough to differentiate between a stock stroke and a 4mm.

Hmmm, sounds interesting....only thing I'm worried about is that I don't have reg. and ins. Wonder if they'll be checking.

Yes the GM's come with more power from the factory, but the Cummins is way easier to hop up, has tremendous reliability at super high power levels, and the sky is the limit for power. For potential: In the quad world I'd compare the Cummins to a banshee, and the Duramax to a 450.

Different fuels can require very different jetting requirements. Especially if one of the fuels is oxygenated. I highly doubt that octane caused the problem, more likely that the jetting was way off from the fuel swap.

I have a good friend who has an MX ready rolling chassis for a Blaster. It has everything needed except an engine. JB +2 roundhouse swingarm, Lonestar axle, Burgard +2 or +3 a-arms, TCS Shocks all around, CT pipe, hydro brakes all around. $1500 obo. Have a motor also that is locked up for a little more, probably needs a crank. Located in western PA.

I have quite a few friends with diesels, and I've looked into getting one myself. Yes definately stay away from the Ford 6.0L, and I'm a Ford guy. The new twin turbo is unproven, so I'd avoid it also. The cummins in the Dodge is by far the best engine, especially if you intend to hop it up. The Dodge auto tranny's are subpar though. The Allison in the GM's is great and the Duramax is a good engine as well. The GM's also offer the smoothest ride of the bunch. I think the Dodge Megacab is the best cab, it is huge. The rear seat reclines, and there is even quite a bit of room behind it. I would get a 3/4 ton unless hauling a very heavy trailer all the time. I would also get a 6ft bed because you can still haul just about everything, but the shortened wheelbase makes parking much easier. My first choice would be a Dodge 2500 Megacab with the 6 spd manual tranny...that is one hell of a bulletproof combo. Second would be a GM 2500 with the Allison Auto.

You will damage your balljoints

FAST has some lighter springs. If you really want to make it lighter, buy a throttle from a 400ex and put on there. You can get them on Ebay for like $25 all the time. It makes a huge difference. Thats why all the used EX throttles sell for like $25 and the used banshee ones sell for like $5...lol

http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?...c=74979&hl= check that out

I absolutely will not back down from my statement about cold seizing! The reason is because forged pistons require more clearance than cast pistons. Any time there is more clearance, cold seizures are more likely. I'm totally sick of you opening your mouth about crap you obviously have no idea about. Do a little research next time. And by the way, the engine builder is Rich Hetrick of Hetrick Racing.... you've probably never heard of him, but he is very well known in MX racing. In fact he was named engine builder of the year, mechanic of the year, and race team of the year at the GNC awards banquet a couple years ago. John Natalie even rode for him a couple years back.

Easier break in for one. Forged pistons are much more likely to cold seize. I think cast are more forgiving also. I've never had a problem with cast pistons and I've been using them for years. I can't say the same for Wiseco pistons, I had trouble with them on more than one occasion. I've seen many Wiseco pistons with broken skirts from friends quads. I've also seen two wiseco pistons that broke one of there circlips and the pin worked out and ruined the cylinders. I talked to a reputable builder about this when it happened to me once and he said it was fairly common with Wiseco circlips.

Not me, I'll take an oem or a pro-x anyday over a wiseco....I seem to be in the minority on this one. I like forged pistons in 4 strokes, but prefer cast in two strokes. I'm not the only one with this opinion either, some very reputable engine builders tend to agree.

I'm thinking it is just a really old aftermarket axle, like from the late 80's or early 90's.

It is definately aftermarket because of the width.

This is my first attempt to post a picture....I hope it works. Can anyone identify this axle for a banshee? It seems to have more of a taper than any of the current LSR, RPM, Durablue, etc. Also, it has one 7/8" spacer for each side and a smaller spacer that is countersunk in so it rides over the shoulder on the axle. The smaller spacer must be put on first then the big one. I'm thinking it might be an old Lonestar or something. Any ideas?

Simply call them and ask to not recieve any more stuff.....they are good about it.

Those look more like the Ford Ranchero rod ends to me, I could be wrong. Take one off and go check out the parts store..... Not sure about the arms but lonestar are the only ones i know of that use the Ford ends.

I had to file a claim before and everything worked out well, I did'nt even have to send the item in or anything...they said I may need to though. The buyer makes the claim, but they give the money to the seller, which I find kind of stupid. Also, those parts are not very expensive at all. I bet for $30 you can have new choke assemblies and throttle cable adjusters for both carbs.

I'm not sure with your setup, but a lot of the guys who used the VW joints on 250R's would grind some material away to allow the ball joint to have more travel when the suspension is fully extended. It helps make the joints last longer. Not sure if it's required on a banshee....probably depends alot on the length of your shocks.