blaster668

Bike has been sold!

2001 Yamaha Banshee with tons of aftermarket and extra parts in excellent condition. This Banshee is set up for both drag racing and flat track racing. It is VERY fast, here is a list of aftermarket parts and modifications, but I'm sure I'm missing some. Most of the removed stock parts are included as well. The pictures show the machine in the current flat track setup. Cheetah Cub cylinders, Wiseco pistons, Welded crank, Paul Turner Power Head, Duncan Reed cages, CPI in frame drag pipes, PWK carbs, Aftermarket airbox, Extended, shortened, and stock length swingarms, G-Force extended axle, YFZ450 a-arms, Set of Works Racing front shocks that need serviced, Wheelie bar, Aluminum wheels, Set of both MX and flat track tires, Adjustable rear linkage, Full set of aluminum skid plates, Aluminum bumper, Aluminum Nerf bars, Honda throttle, Stainless brake lines, Sway bar $4,500 Here is a link to my Craigslist Ad with photos https://meadville.craigslist.org/snw/6164360721.html

I have a brand new warranty replacement Lonestar axle for a Raptor 660. I would like to trade for a nice aftermarket banshee axle.

No ones interested in this stuff at all? It's gonna go on fleabay soon!

I have some Parts to sell, I can get pics on request. All prices do not include shipping, feel free to make offers also. FMF Fatty Pipes and powercore 2 silencers- They have some small dents and scratches but still work fine $200 Keihin PJ 34 Carbs- Good Shape, the one carb has the drain plug removed and welded for clutch arm clearance $200 Mikuni TMX 38 Carbs- These have Boswell stickers but have not been fully modified by Boswell, the carbs have press fit flanges on the engine side that increase the diameter to use 40-44mm intake boots, these flanges will probably come of fairly easily with some heat, but the carbs also include new VM40/200 boots that will bolt up to alluminum intakes with bolt holes center to center of 75mm. These carbs also do NOT have the choke assemblies, as they were used on a cable set up. $200 2004 YFZ450 front shocks- $200

Can you guys tell me what you torque your base and head nuts to with a cub cylinder and PD style Coolhead?

Lonestar, RPM, and DuraBlue all straighten bent axles. They only replace if broken. Not sure what method they use to straighten them though.

If everything else is equal with with the fuel except octane, using a higher octane fuel than required will actually reduce power slightly. The energy content in higher octane fuel is less than lower octane.... Again, this only applies if everything else in the fuel is the same...There are many different blends of fuels, even within a single company.

Nope, best for hardpack. Get some holeshot MX's for the loose stuff.

I asked my friend about that stuff. Everything is 1 yr old. It is +1 3/8" JB Racing long travel a-arms. The front shocks are PEP ZPS ARC with the large volume rezzy's. The Rear is a PEP ZPS Dual Rate with large volume rezzy's. Everything is set up for a 170 lb A Class cross country rider. Those front shocks cost $1650, the rear $1045. He wants $2000 for everything or $1500 for the front stuff. This stuff is just about the best money can buy.

I'll have to ask, but I know it's gonna be pretty steep....those shocks are expensive as hell.

I know a guy that does a really great job with a quick turnaround and excellent prices. MEK Racing Engines 814-432-2916 call after 5 or on weekends, he has another day job. Ask for Merle. His work is top notch, and he takes his time with every cylinder. Located about an hr south of Erie.

K&K has them listed. http://www.kandkatv.com/store/product_info...1d991ef17883acf

If you want some really nice stuff, a good friend of mine is selling a set of JB long travel a-arms and matching PEP ZPS shocks.

Check with Alba, I just bought a set off of them about a month ago. They might have some more.

Some guys just get smokin deals on the yfz stuff though, and it is much better than the stock parts. I traded a friend a set of used beadlocks that I paid $150 for, for his brand new yfz take off shocks and a-arms. I'm gonna use the a-arms with a set of aftermarket 250r shocks. I figure I can sell the yfz shocks for $200 or better and see good 250r/400ex shocks for under $300 all the time.

I've got a good friend who races A class in the gncc series, he swears by the holeshot gncc's on the rear. He prefers razrs on the front though.

There are two different flanges that are commonly used. The ones with the wider bolt hole spacing are about half the price of the vm34/200's. They are the vm38/200 for 36-38 carbs and VM32/206 for 30-34's.....maybe yours were these ones Firehead? I wish all the intake companies would use the wider spacing, because you can get the flanges for the bigger carbs for them, even clear up to 44mm. So on that setup you can get flanges for 30-44mm carbs. For the smaller pattern you are limited to 26-34mm although the 35's fit perfect in those boots.

Yes, VP is one of the best race fuel companies out there.

It will sit really low...I'm planning on using stock length works shocks on yfz arms, but I'm racing flattrack.

Also, another thing to consider is that diesels can often use alternative fuel sources, such as vegetable oil and biodiesels. They can save you a lot of money on fuel if you are willing to spend some time making them. However, if you ever plan on doing this, do some research on some of the diesel forums before you buy a truck. The fuel systems in each of the trucks responds very differently to different fuels. If I remember correctly, people were frequently burning up fuel pumps in cummins engines running on vegi oil. Of course, this may not apply to you at all.

stock stroke is 54mm a 4mm stroker would be 58mm

Problem solved, get a manual. It will last forever, take tons of abuse, handles lots more power, and puts more power to the ground. One of my buddies has an 06 cummins megacab with a manual, that thing makes enough torque that you can drive it just about anywhere in 6th gear, you never have to downshift, even when pulling a trailer.

Any Parts Unlimited dealer can get them, they are in the snowmobile catalog. You need to figure out which flanges your intake uses because there are a few different ones. They come marked, it'll say something like VM34/200. Sometimes the intake manufacturers grind the numbers off so people buy replacements from them. Go to www.sudco.com then to products, then rubber flanges...that will give you all the dimensions.

Well it depends on what octane requirements your motor needs based on compression, timing, and altitude mainly. You may not even need race gas depending on your combo. VP makes great fuel but I think it's overpriced. I like Torco 110, have had great results with it. I've also used Turbo Blue, and Cam2 which are both typically cheaper fuels. Many people use AVGAS and swear by it, I've never tried it though. Check around and see whats available in your area. Ask some car racers as they usually know of a few places to get fuel.