blaster668

Most aftermarket a-arms use tie rod ends from VW bugs as ball joints. Some use Ford Ranchero rod ends. Go down to the local parts store and check some out, see if they match up to yours. I can't remember if they are inner or outer, as one is reverse threads...so pay attention to that as well. You will save a lot of money by buying them from the parts store vs. an a-arm maker.

Anyone know what Kenny Roberts in-frame drag pipes are like?

I do not have personal experience with the power now, but at least in theory it will help. Basically it increases the intake velocity at carb openings below half throttle. It pretty much fools the intake system to act like a smaller carb at partial throttle openings. Therefore, it will aid in throttle response and bottom end...there would be no top end benefits. Kind of similar to how a powervalve works, but not nearly as dramatic because it doesn't affect port timing. There are actually quite a few ways to help intake flow characteristics. One that has shown very positive results is using a honeycomb type tube in the intake tract to make the flow pattern much more laminar.

I think lowering links work well in the rear.

After looking into it, I doubt we'll go. None of us have spark arrestors and are all WAAAAAYYYY over the 94db limit.

Some buddies and I are looking into going up to Silver Lakes. We are from PA and wondering what regulations there are, like exhaust, registration, etc?

YES!!! XC races are NASTY. One of my best friends raced A class in the AWRCS series last year, he is swithching to PRO this year. He probably broke more parts from hitting trees and crap than he did in about 5 years of racing MX combined.

The red label .190 are the thickest standard wheel Douglas offers, however you will get flat spots very easily on them from jumping because there is just one layer of aluminum at the lip. You want any wheel that has a round lip like the stockers do, reinforcing rings like omf or itp bajas, or of course beadlocks which are the best. You can also change your own tires without a beadbreaker with beadlocks. I believe all Douglas Ultimates and ITP T9 Pro wheels have a rolled lip as well as the stockers. If it were me, I'd probably use stock fronts and get a set of 8" beadlocks for the rear. Also, for tires don't forget that 18x9.5x8 Turf Tamers are excellent rear mx tires. You sure can't beat the price of them. And if you always ride on very hardpacked tracks, you cannot beat the old school grooved radials.... and they last just about FOREVER!!! There are many different designs of them here is one. http://www.kandkatv.com/store/product_info...68272aa2c6af64c

Also, practice dead engine starts a lot. Remember, you never have the opportunity to get ahead of 20 guys at once after the first corner. If you practice a lot you will get good enough at it that you can have the bike in 2nd gear, kick it over and let the clutch out while you are in the middle of your kick. A good rider can get a faster start with a kick start bike than the electric start ones.

First I would not run pods in a gncc race. They are notorious for being very muddy often, and you will want that airbox if there is any water at all. I don't believe you have to have # plates in gncc racing but I'm more used to another xc series. I think they put a sticker with a barcode on your helmet and scan your helmet at each checkpoint, but I'm not sure on that one. For fuel, I'm not sure how the banshee will do. But one of my buddies used to fill up a gallon milk jug with fuel before he bought an oversize tank on his yfz450. The milk jug allows you to quickly squeeze the gas into the tank, much quicker than just using a regular gas can. If you can, have someone else in your pit to fuel your quad up. When you stop have some water handy and have another pair of goggles to swap when you do fill up, good idea to also have a towel to wipe off your face. You will want a camelback or some type of hydration system to drink water while you ride, they are available at Wal-mart and any outdoor or sporting goods store. You will want lots of tearoffs, the chest protector is a good idea. You will need a tether kill switch. I believe the rules state you must have boots with ankle protection, long sleeve shirt and pants, helmet, goggles, gloves and a tether. The gear doesn't have to be MX boots or pants etc according to the rules....but that is what you should use for your safety.

I've had a pair of Alpinestar tech 8's for quite a few yrs. You can break the boots in a little quicker by getting them soaking wet and walking around for a while. I'm thinking about getting a pair of the new 50/50 boots by Thor. Here is a link to them, they look great for normal riding. http://www.motoworldracing.com/thor-07-50-50-boot.html

Torque specs are listed on Hipers website.

On the website it does say: Base price: $460.00 Options: Check additional options from the list below Billet Exhaust Clamps (add $60.00) Chrome Finish (add $121.00)

Ok, I thought something was up there....I was gonna buy those in a heartbeat.

http://www.carbparts.com/keihin/pj_jetting....htm#Dimensions That site has dimensions for the PJ carbs, I bet it is a PJ 34mm but not sure by the #'s. Also, I'm interested in the reed cages if you decide to seperate.

Do you have the # for CPI or a website for them?

I'm not sure that these will work now that I looked more. The Sudco website lists a parts kit specific to pwk39 snowmobile carbs, so I'm thinking there may be other differences.

There is a set of 39 pwk carbs on ebay from a snowmobile for very cheap. They have cable chokes, but that is easy to convert with parts from keihin. I'm sure that needles and jets would need to be changed, possibly slides. But this looks like an opportunity to save a couple hundred bucks. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...p;rd=1&rd=1

Harbor freight isn't bad for some stuff but most of there tools are junk. But for large wrenches and sockets and stuff like that, that I rarely use I'll buy from them.

I kinda like the urban camo ones, and some of the camo's would look good on utility quads.

Anyone ever tried any of these tires? Some of them look neat and not a bad price from this guy. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZairtire

14.5" I believe

The only form of payment I'll accept from an international buyer is Paypal. There are way to many scams going on with fake money orders from outside the US right now too.

If you want some really good info on mini atv's call Hetrick Racing here is there website http://www.hetrickracing.com/index.htm They have been the leader in youth mx quad racing for years now. They will have some great info for you as there is a huge difference in mini atvs now. There are tons of options from super cheap crap to full out high doller racers.

Guys, I'm trying to decide which carbs to put on my 358 cub build. I allready have a set of 34 Pj's and a set of 35 PWK's. Out of those two, I'm planning on going with the PWK's, but I'm wondering if it's worth selling them and getting a set of 35 Airstikers? Is there much of a performance difference? I bought the PWK's from someone on ebay who had them listed as 40's without any other info for really cheap. I was planning on selling them to make a buck, I figured they were 39's but when I got them I found out they are really 35's.