blaster668

There are tons of bikes out there that use the PJ and PWK series of carbs in all different sizes. They can often be picked up cheaply also. Depending on how it's setup though, you may have to change slide, needle, main, and pilot.

You don't want 450R long travel shocks. You want standard travel ones. The shock bodies are longer on the LT shocks, therefore when you jam them into your setup, you will actually have less travel because the shock will allready be compressed a few inches. If you have the 450 arms on your quad now, the best thing I think you can do to get the perfect shocks is remove one of your shocks, let that spindle assembly all the way down so that the balljoints are holding it at their limit of travel. Then measure from center of top mount to center of bottom mount. Subtract a little bit from that measurement because you don't want the ball joints taking impacts like that. This will help immensely with choosing the proper shock length. If you do this please let me know your results.

It really depends on how you are setting it up. For Flattrack the banshee length shocks would probably work well. For normal riding and mx I think the 250r, 400ex, 450r length shocks would be perfect.

That's tough to say because I think it really depends on the color of the bike. I don't think you can go wrong with neutral colors like White, Black, Silver vein, Silver, Chrome, etc. I'm doing mine White right now, I think it'll look great with blue plastic.

One trick that we used on wet days when I raced MX was to use duct tape and seal up all the openings under the seat. That kept water from being able to splash up into the airbox.

http://p081.ezboard.com/Honda-TRX-250r-Forum/bhondatrx250r There is a 250r forum. Not too sure if it's very active anymore, but still some good info.

The ones I posted would only be $89 for everything. The boots are only $8 each, available at your local parts shop because most are parts unlimited dealers. Still, saving $50 would be worth the extra effort to me.

Looking for a set of 8 inch rear wheels. Must be rolled bead, reinforcing rings, or beadlocks. Yamaha bolt pattern.

I'm thinking 15psi for setting the beads seems way low. But I don't want to risk your safety, so use your own judgement.

If it's a stock frame, take a good look in the swingarm mounting area. One of the common things on stock R frames if they are jumped a lot is for the swingarm to actually move forward and bust the cases. This is usually only seen on bikes that have been MX'ed. That area is fairly easy to fix and reinforce. Also, You may end up needing to do some electrical work as wires tend to get brittle with age.

Maybe because you can get the whole setup for less than a hundred bucks, and in different colers if you want them like that. I've heard bad things about upp intakes. Most other intakes are like $200, so if you'd like to waste a hundred bucks for a little convenience that's fine with me. I already have intakes, but i would have bought these if I'd seen them.

Are we talking about a Honda TRX250R or a Suzuki Lt250R? The Honda's are super reliable. The Suzuki's tend to have a few more problems. But at any rate, understand that you will be buying a quad that is 15-22 years old. Many things are going to start wearing out if they haven't been taken care of already.

I just found a guy on ebay who has billet intakes for a good price. He has them available anodized in all different colors. They do not have the rubber boots, but they are available from any parts unlimited dealer and are rather inexpensive. His listing says 38-40 carbs but you can get the 35 mm and 28mm boots with the same bolt pattern. http://stores.ebay.com/Tecate-Connection Here is the link for the boots on Parts Unlimited, they are in the snow catalog. http://snow.parts-unlimited.com/8/159/3477001

Yes, I know there is much more to Heat treating and tempering...I was grossly simplifying for this forum. Still I will guarantee that this mod does not change the integrity of the a-arms. And the main reason you do not want to use those shocks on your stock a-arms is that you will damage your balljoints, because they will have large impact forces at there limit of travel.

Doing this mod does not require any welding. And guess what, I will also guarantee that a-arms are not heat treated or tempered. That would actually weaken them by making them brittle. Heat treating is used to make metal harder, something that is not a desired feature on a-arms. Heat treating also requires the metal to be much hotter than you will ever reach using a grinder. Even if metal reaches that temperature the metal returns to its original state as long as it is air cooled. Quenching in water or oil is what changes the properties of the material. Also, the area that is cut for this mod is in a very low stress area. As I stated earlier, I have a degree in mechanical engineering which qualifies me very well to make these statements. Dealing with stress points, material properties, heat treating, etc... is exactly what I studied.

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I also use atf fluid. I think it shifts better, and clutches last much longer.

Dude, this is a very ignorant thing to say (and by ignorant I mean the true definition, uninformed). Cutting down the 450 arms in no way weakens them. Have you even looked at the pictures of what or where is cut? I am a mechanical engineer, and I will guarantee that this modification in no way affects the strength or integrity of the a-arms. I cannot comment yet on how well the a-arm swap performs because I have not ridden on this setup yet. But I do know for a FACT that the arms are not weakened as you stated.

I really think you're best bet is to go the 450 a-arm route as a permanent replacement.....those shocks will work perfect on that setup. Almost all aftermarket Banshee a-arms use the standard length Banshee shocks. If you want aftermarket arms you could probably buy stock length ones for a 450 and use those.

Actually, changing the oil mixture rate does affect jetting to a small degree. This is why: If you go from say 40:1 down to 20:1 there is more oil in your gas. Your jets flow a certain volume of this mixed fluid per minute. So if there is more oil, that means there is less gas flowing through the jets. Therefore, you are now running slightly leaner than you were at 40:1. But to the original question. I believe that mixture rate is 36:1.... You should be fine with that. I don't think you are oil fouling them. It sounds like you are a little rich on jetting. When you read plugs, agtually look at the ceramic down inside the plug for the color, not on the threads and such. You want it to be a nice light brown color.

The PV motor will definately be faster. Power valves are great, they give an engine builder more room to work with regarding exhaust port timing, because in effect the powervalve offers variable exhaust timing. Basically, if the cub and pv cylinders are set up identical when the pv is open, they will produce the same peak HP....but the PV will have a lot broader of a power curve. Lots more bottom end and more area under the curve....which translates into faster. But the PV can be set up with even more aggressive exhaust timing and still have good bottom and midrange and even more top end power. People buy the cub because it is much cheaper, and gives MOST of the power that the PV cylinders do.

Never used jet fuel in the heater. I belong to a vol fire co and sometimes we get jet fuel from the local airport for free for starting training fires. If there is even any reason at all to believe that it is contaminated they dispose of it. Like even if a sealed barrel gets dirty or wet.

Cool, I really like the way CPIs look too. Can anyone show me a pic of their CPIs with the seat off from the top? Also, any opinions on whether rockets would work? I'm pretty sure T5's would but I don't know if they'd be much better than the FMF's.

Just a clean up port. I'm mainly gonna be using it for large oval racing. Basically two drag races with a corner on each end. Very fast wide open tracks, not the typical tt type tracks. I will also occasionally take it out for a trail ride. I know, I know....cubs cannot be used on trails. I just need something to scare the shit out of me occasionally lol. But seriously, there are lots of dirt roads, old railroad beds, and wide open fire roads that I'll tear up quite a bit on it. I need some splash protection, because even wet grass and small puddles will cause problems with pods.

Also, here is a link that shows the cfm airbox and how it mounts. I need to keep the airbox for occasional water protection. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Yamaha-Bans...1QQcmdZViewItem