blaster668

Look into the AWRCS series as well. It is actually centered somewhat around Pittsburgh. Cody, races most of these as well. Here is the link to the schedule but it's not complete yet. http://www.imxracing.com/index.php?option=...7&Itemid=53

They are 28mm PWK copies made from Carb Parts Warehouse. They contain all genuine keihin internals. All the jets, needles, slides, etc... are keihin pwk parts. But that is too much money for them I believe. CPW sells them direct on ebay bored to 30mm properly jetted and with a throttle cable for less than that.

Lonestar axles are excellent. Not quite as strong and durable as RPM Dominators, but much better than Durablue. And they are the best about replacing them if they do bend or break.

1000ft elevation, Riding temps vary between about 50-100 degrees F. It'll be on the colder side of that when I get this thing running. Ports are just gonna be cleaned up a little.

I'm gonna be starting my build soon and need a little info on some crank stuff. I'm going to be getting a TZ or Max load bearing, do I just get one for the outer clutch side? Or which ones do I need? Also, how do I change the inner bearings? I was planning on having a good friend TIG weld the crank, he's a pro welder. But I may send it out if I can't seperate the crank myself. Is this something I can do, or does a shop need to do it?

I'd like some rough ideas on where to start with jetting. 65 x 54 cub, 34 PJ carbs, FMF fatties, 17cc domes.

PM Sent

I already sent a money order out for them.

I'm gonna be sending payment for the Head as soon as I get his Paypal email address. I sent him a PM early this morning.

I believe CFM has new aluminum airboxes for like $89 buy it now on Ebay. In the auction they give prices for the larger boots and such as well. It uses two pod filters in the box.

If the coolhead comes with the longer studs and is setup for stock bore and stroke, I'll take it. Pics would be appreciated. Blaster668@hotmail.com

Money order sent this morning!

What about using the 1000 streetbike clutch? What all is needed to use it. Also, my main use for this quad is quite a bit different than most of you I believe. I'm gonna be using it mainly for local flat track racing on fairground ovals. These are very high speed tracks, so I'll be running tall gearing. Why do you say I'd probably be happier with a ported stock cylinder? I want a kick ass motor, but would just like to retain much of the stuff I allready have. Oh, and the cylinder was $600, never used.

I purchased an unused set of cub cylinders off of here. They are 65mm bore and 54mm stroke so it's just the 358cc setup for stock length rods also. Do these use the standard banshee pistons or the 795 series? I'm trying to stay as inexpensive as possible, so will my FMF fatties work halfway decent? I know they aren't the best for this setup. What about 28 pwk's bored to 30mm, are they way to small or would it still run pretty good? What head do you guys prefer best? I'm thinking of getting a Noss with smaller domes. I know compression helps build lots of torque and I have no problem running race gas. Any reccomendations are appreciated.

The atf is also very inexpensive to buy, but yes change often.

I cancelled my order on the OKO 28's based on what I heard here. Not because I think they are junk, but because I think the ones on ebay bored to 30mm would be better for me. Carb parts warehouse also said the carbs are made by Keihins parent company and all internals are genuine Keihin.

I agree it's a good deal, so is the one for 28 carbs. Maybe someone allready has cable and jets and doesn't need the bored carb. Anyone with a Blaster would also be well off going with that carb.

I just bought a set of 28's from here http://dratv.stores.yahoo.net/okepw.html $120 for the set, I have to check to see what everyone's using for jets.

http://dratv.stores.yahoo.net/okepw.html He has 28mm OKO's for 59.95 each, thats $120 for a set!

anyone?

Can a stock airbox be used with PWK 28's?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...3791&rd=1,1 ends in like 3 min

If the coolant is 50/50 water/antifreeze, which is normal, it should be good down to I believe like -30 F

Remember, hardened doesn't always mean better. It depends on the application. Hardened steel is brittle, it does not work well in impact loading. A cylinder stud is subjected to impact forces while the engine is running. We had to pick proper studs for an engine in one of my classes. The work required to select the proper stud actually took 3 pages of calculations...not fun. The Yamaha engineers have allready done this for you, just use their studs. By the way, I do have a degree in mechanical engineering.

Yeah, check ebay. You can find some awesome deals sometimes. I bought a set of fmf fatties with silencers in decent shape for $150 shipped.