fastrthnu

700 gazillionbazillion!!!

I just do mine myself in 10-15 minutes. :shrug: Dont need a tire machine.

10 isnt that fast. depends on what its got though.

did I hear correctly that modern cars are running an air to fuel ratio of 14:1 :ermm: and could do better with those?

mine was 157 with a +4 and 21cc domes @ sea level. I think it may have been a tad higher, because the thread adaptor for my tester holds about another 1-1.5 cc`s. 1cc is about 12psi diffrence.

no linkage my man.

see if you have spark. If you have spark, and your plugs are damp with fuel, do a compression test and make sure you dont have a leak. Did you check your squish with that new crank n pistons btw? Did you check your floats and all in the carbs? New oil seals all around? You might have to rejet a tad, but it should still fire.

Thats what I wanna hear! I figure the 421 PV would make more power than I have now unported. If I get used to that, I can then port them on a rebuild. Yea, the price you stated was about right with cyls, crank, pistons, and head..... I was just wondering if it was that much of a boost for another grand or better over the others. I figurede it would be, but Im not an expert on cheetahs.

I think I see what your trying to do. Eliminate unwanted wires AND the light switch and run them highs upon starting? You should be able to run your yellow from the stator and regulator right into the yellow on the light wires. Black is your other light wire from the stator which will be your circuit closing back to ground. All you doing in your diagram is feeding your highs and a tail light you dont have or want.

they`re a twin 2 stroke motor the yfz350 originated from yamaha put in an rz350 and rz500 streetbike around 84-86 that used a powervalve system on the cylinders to run at a higher effeciency and allow more power all around per cc. Much more bottom end power which is why they are a sought after direct bolt in replacement for the yfz version (more so by mx type riders). Uses more elecrtonics and are much harder to find one let alone parts for one. This should have ben the motor in the banshee.

Im already running an mx ported +4, and its fast, but I want to bump it up all around even more. My bore is maxed out .1 over and my compression is dropping already. Ive been riding so much lately nearly ever day, I wore it out quick, so new cylinders are in needed or sleeving. Ive gotten very used to the power I have and want more, but I dont want to stretch the thing either. I was going to do the RZ conversion too, but if I run a PV, Id rather have a mechanical setup rather than the electronic and have an adjustable dome. Either way I want to have a new setup before I drop below 130 psi so I can rebuild it over the weekdays and not skip a beat on weekends.

I like riding woods and gncc. I do it alot, but pinned. I dont mess with to many tight corners n crap. Id like to still make more bottom end power, but a bunch more mid and some high. Ive been set on getting a 68mm cheetah PV setup from trinity, but its expensive as hell. I can get a supercub setup 72mm with head and all for $800 cheaper, and a std cub 68mm for $500 less than that $1300 cheaper than the PV. Would I be better off saving the money for good shocks or something else, or is the PV that badass? Im thinking now the supercub with the larger displacement might give me easier bottom n mid?

cpi

Is there one that isnt plastic someone makes? I just found mine was ate up. I hurried to get my bike done and now I cant race this weekend becuase of that one stupid thing.

I need a waterpump drive gear. i took my motor apart to change cranck seals and my gear teeth where all ate up. Also noticed my tranny ate my idler gear circlip. Need these by this friday night.

look in the image section on here.

Its was smokin out both sides pretty close to equal. As far as smell, I dont recall. I use castor927 so its usually sweet, but I dont remember it smelling off. Only the people tryin to race me would know. :cool: Dammit! Thats the only thing I can think of though. I guess Im going to prep for another motor removal. Im frikin more hot about it too, cos Im supposed to race next weekend. Im sure I can get the old seal out without a split. I was just wondering if I heat it up or something if I could cheat it in. I guess not?

I keep losing extreme amounts of oil somewheres and the past few rides, the bike has been runing like shit and rasping bad in certain places, especially on the top. I cant find a leak so Im assuming its the clutch side crank seal. I already have a new one, but question is,.... Can I swap these without splitting? I really dont want to do that again already.

Id use it if its a sufficient size for your mods. Also if you have porting and bolt ons, ditch the T6`s. T5s would make a better all around play pipe, if you do mostly trails and mx, some PT mids, or DMC`s might suite you better too. Measure the bore on the cylinder facing side of the carb to determine the size if you dont know it.

do what?

I dont really think that is neccisarry at 150psi. I use straight 93 with 32-40:1 with +5 timing, porting and all that at 157 psi. No over heating or detonation.

the going prices now are about nothing to $15 dollars for a stock unmilled head about !00-150 on a stock cranck with used bearings unwelded about $200-250 on unported unpolished jugs with a decent bore polished cover yea about $80.

huh,... I didnt even notice till I seen this.

floats maybe stuck too.

the cut out on the slides should be facing the filters. did you adjust you air screws at all? try 2 turns out initial from all the way in for a starting point. have someone shot a shot or 2 of starter fluid into the carbS while you kick it with the filters off and see if it fires. How does your choke work? And what jetting kit did you use? Sometimes depending on where you are,. the one toomey supplies may not work so well. Also did you try with the throttle patially open. Maybe even have someone cover the carb ends with hands on kicking to further choke it.