Aussie Quad Racer

i could not think of anything more sillier than putting an elec start on your banshee

rabbit - i sent you email. I have run down the quarter several times. Best i have done on my banshee with the banshee engine is 13.6, running nobbys.

they will be new, i cannot get you a time or price at the moment as they are still in the making/design. I can tell yuo thou they will be being made in craigeburn which is not far from you.

azza, if your looking for a-arms for your banshee i might be able to supply some to you shortly at a good price.

hey do you guys know of the quad section on the dirtbikeworld.net site? its 100% aus

im with shredish on the single carb setup. i recommend it for all riding except serious drag racers. I have not tried the stage 4 setup, only used custom manifolds. Personally i will not go back to twins.

how ya goin? im from gold coast and was down your way with my banshee a couple of months ago. i stayed in geelong for a week and a half. went riding with a bunch of guys at parwin, lake gallier and the sand dunes in western vic.

have you deglased all the metal friction surfaces?

im an aussie, its pretty obvious from my nickname. theres been a few come and go over the years.

best i could manage at penguin was 828.4 and tyre throw was best of 444 and got 2nd place out of todays high scores

ok let me tell you guys something first off lets look at your banshee ignition engine is 2 cylinder 2 stroke with a single coil. so therefore to fire at tdc on compression for every cylinder it must pulse the coil every 180deg. lets look at 4 cylinder 4 stroke with single coil. in 2 crankshaft revolutions all 4 cylinders go through a cycle. thats 4 cycles for 720deg so that = 1 pulse every 180 deg. exactly the same as your banshee. the problem lies in the cdi. cdi pulses positive to the coil where general automotive ignition systems pulse the earth. if you want a tach then i suggest using rz cases with the internal tacho drive, cable and rz tacho.

You don't have stock carbs on there is your running 175 mains.....STock carb jets only go in 10 increments....180,190,200,210,220,230, etc....If you have 175 mains, then your running keihin carbs which are larger than stock which will make you lose hp w/o porting.....A 175 main is a huge jet for stock motor w/ just pipes..I'm running a 158 w/ my stroker... Mikuni actually go in increments of 5 from 50-200 then from 200-500 they go up in 10's

i use a single 34mm mikuni flat slide powerjet on a custom setup and use a custom drilled(with number drills) jet, i cant remember the number drill size but it is over a mikuni 500 main jet. Also i have 100 on the powerjet.

30-33 anything above this would be exagerated(like most hp figures quoted)

do a search. theres several topics on this and there about 12pages long from memory

The only reason you notice the throttle sticking and the others have not is cause you have disconnected your tors. I polished the inside of my carbs and it solved the prob for me. The only other way is to replace the slides with chrome units. I have chrome slides for my 34vm carbs but unsure if you can get them for 26vm carbs(banshee carbs).

use a rubber cap to block it off thgen you can remove it to bleed air from the engine

first of all measure you fibres, they should be between 2.7mm and 3mm. Usually a general clutch service will solve your problem. You need to remove preasure plate, fibres and steel plates and the inner hub. You need to sandblast all the fiction surfaces on the steel plates, inner hub and presure plate. this deglases the surface and roughens it up. Try this first b4 spending the money on a new clutch, unless you clutch is obviously stuffed.

i have a single 34mm flat slide, power jet, mikuni carb and my bike will pull 90mph proven on a couple of time sheets from the 1/4 drag track

age/fatigue usually cased by droping the clutch too many times

go 21cc if you want to run regular fuel. Installation is easy and straight forward but can be very fiddly. Use grease to hold the o-rings in place. DLNOSS has been a pleasure to deal with for me personally and i will/would do business with him again, Note i live in australia and have had no dramas with freight or parts!

just drain it, fill it up, ride it once, then drain again.

go single carb. Less tuning, easier mantenance, broader power curve!

i have a custom design single carb manifold made up, it is 100% smoother onto the power with increased bot-mid power without loosing the top. With twin 34mm fs carb i was 90mph top speed and still pull 90mph with single carb. These are proven times from the 1/4 mile drag strip(and not ridingnext to my mate in his car )

you can put on a trist throttle and still have it idle, you only need an idle screw kit if you remove the tors tops