Screaming Yellow Zonker

Vito's sells them. It costs 440.00 I will need one soon. I just found this on my engine. I put some white lithium grease on the shaft.

if you have a big concern than I would change it just to be safe. My basket looked like that and I did not change it and it exploded on me 5 miles from camp. just my opinion.

the best fluid to use is "red". Its a transmission not a crankcase so use red trans oil. I have seen a few hill racers use type-F trans fluid. I use Bel Ray fluid but will be switching to type - F soon.

how is your fuel flow? You have filters on the fuel shut off and if they get plugged than your fuel is restricted. just a thought.

My plugs are a dark brown color and that is how I like them. that means I am not going to lean burn it. it sounds like you lean burned your engine. find out what jets are in the carbs and let us know.

have you checked your pilot jets for build up? I know you said you have been through the carbs a few times. Does it do that with the choke pulled or no choke?

IMO you need to remove all the T.O.R.S. BS on your machine. Unplug the box, carbs, parking brake/clutch, and throttle. this should eliminate all T.O.R.S. functions.

back at your CDI box you have 2 plugs. On one there will be a green wire with a yellow tracer. cut it and tape it up. this eliminates the tors from canceling spark.

I might be wrong but all the AV fuel by me is Oxygenated. I know a few people that run it in their racecars. and they go through it quicker than race gas. I stick to the pump gas 94.

check this page out to see if it helps. http://www.speedandsport.com/jet.html have you tried turning your air screws to lean it out? As far as white smoke goes that is a sign of moisture being burnt. are you sure it isnt a blue tint?

The sound can be deceiving. What sounds like flooding could be starvation for fuel. Have you checked your plugs for color or moisture? Are you getting black smoke out of the pipes? You just might be going the wrong way.

Make sure you richen your mixture since AV fuel is oxygenated.

Pull the bleeder all the way out and check if it is plugged. If so run a small drill bit through it just removing the crud.

your pilot jets are what makes your machine idle. you need to pull them out and make sure they are not plugged. then you need to adjust your carbs. Do you have the T.O.R.S. removed? You also need to put the needle back in the middle. Here is an adjustment sheet when you have the T.O.R.S. removed first...with the idle screws completely removed, remove the airbox (makes it easier to see and work on). Make sure with the idles screws removed both carb slides fully bottom out and seat with no throttle. Then...slowly move the throttle and make sure they move up at the SAME TIME. You use the adjusters on TOP of the carb caps for the syncing of them. Next, place each idle screw in. When it touches the slide, stop. Back it out, turn it in, etc. Once it is JUST at the point of touching, turn that screw in 2.0 full turns, and lock it down. Do the same on both. Check the sync on both of them again.... Put it back together.... Warm it up...and set your air mixture screw next. Start with the air screw out .5 turns from the lightly seated position. Keep turning it out until you get your highest idle, only go .5 turns at a time. After you turn the air screw out, WAIT 20 seconds for the adjustment to take place. When you get your highest idle, then...adjust it up or down with the idle screws....

Ahhhh OK now that you say Paul Turner I have heard of them. I have never ran engine ice. I use water wetter and water. no coolant. and have not had an overheating problem since changing over.

Sorry never heard of PT mids. You might also need upgrade your clutch. Have you removed your T.O.R.S.? I changed out my impeller for a billet one and also changed the gear. just to try and keep it cooler.

what type of pipes do you plan on using? I would also recommend an adjustable timing plate

you have a vent problem. the most common problem with a plugged vent is blown seals and excessive fluid from the over flow. check that vent that sits between the carbs on the top of the trans. it might be gummed up with dirt and oil. good luck.

you definitely have a fuel level problem. Make sure the float is not filled with gas. If it is filled it will weigh it down and just keep dumping fuel. Also the needle and seat can be worn out. if the rubber tip gets hard the needle won't seal against the seat. also with the carb off you should ba able to shake it and hear the float move.

Teflon tape is not going to help you out at all. If there is nothing to grab it will still spin. You are going to have to tear it down and Hei-Coil the damaged hole.

I ended up pulling the in-tank filters off and put an inline filter on. that way I can see when it need changing.

just a thought have you checked your needles to make sure they are straight?

if your machine is a 97 or newer just go back to the CDI plug and cut the green wire with the yellow tracer. make sure to tape off the end or it can ground against the frame and activate the TORS.

I was thinking about one of these for my shee

Yep it sounds like the clutch discs are dry or sticking. Have you changed brands of oil since you have notices the problem? Another thing make sure you have enough oil in the trans case.