Bansh-eman

yea me and Polish from here went out ... we didnt talk to any one though we where to busy riding... well i take that back we wokeup to some dumbass kid that him and his buddy got stuck in the sand over night drinking and offraoding in a 2 wheel drive tundra.. and then we got kickout of vender flats by the law....going back not this weekend but next... for one last test run before halloween

all banshee axles are interchangable only differance is the hubs...

Vender Flats is where we will be camping for halloween... cant beat Oldsmobile Hill... i like Gordons Well we went there a few weeks ago and it was good riding... go with the 13/42 you wont be disappointed.... also your tire size will affect to overall outcome too...

i got a +4 and it climbs the lips fine... my only prob was i had some tire with only 8 paddles on it last time so i got some new 10 paddle haulers... Polish was climbing right over the dunes in 3rd and wasnt having any problems i on the other hand was spinning the crap out of mine so i was working 2 times as hard to get over them and then beat the break at the top so i dont launsh over the side of a 200 foot dune...

the lever on the top of the case like said has arrows... push the lever by hand and it should almost match up to the arrow on the case... unless your as Dajr says Superman

i beleive your motor reacts opposites from front to rear... dropping a tooth in the front does the same as adding 3 in the rear??? i want to say Polish had a 13/42 when he first got his bike stock...he loved it...

your going to smell the metal if its brand new its got to get the heat to burns off the chemicals on the outside of the metals and in the exhaust packing... no most dealer dont test them out they just sell them, and once you break it in it will start ezer... you should have ran a few 20 min sessions on it befor riding it... help everything seat... o dont you over heated it... and dont realy on your overflow bottle... ALWAYS check the radiator level ....

wow you really over do it! change your oil every 3-4 rides? and grese the fittings the sme... theres no need to do it that often...and plugs should last you a while unless your super lean or super rich...

if your hitting 6th gear climbng a hill something is wrong .... you should be in 4th peged or just hitting 5th at the top... try 13/42.... but with your mottor id go back to 14/41....dosent sound like much power to try pulling the gear your running...

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its only a stupid question to someone that has been around the sport for awhile, everyone has got to learn sooner or later... why bash on a guy thats trying to learn more about his ride?

either i cant read or what? are you talking about in inner clutch hub? if so theres a tool kinda like a reversed vise grip tha holds it if not then im retarded and read your post wrong...

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i have Works shocks and love them, i dont like elka jus becasue your paying for a name... any shock you get isnt going to last 10 years your going to have to rebuild it every few seasons... also stick with yamalube.. its good shit.. alot of guy with strokers including myself all run yamalube...

i just got my new haulers today... RMATV got them to me fast! the tires these guys use are the cheapest brand you can find... its crayz how they strip a regular tire and glue paddle on and they are one of the best sand tires money can buy...you can even see the marks where the grinder rips into the tire and makes little marks when they prep it before they glue the paddles on.

you should have one ring for your piston and 2 circlips.. 2 strokes dont have oil control rings those are on 4 strokes..hence the reason we have premix...

then you guys have good ones or mine just sucks ass.. it was a really tight fit! i ruined one using a socket and had to get a new one and use the old seal to hit it in with... it was rediculose how hard it was to get it to go in there... it would drop about half way in and then STOPPED... but its in there now so im not worried about it...

to get the new impeller seal in there is a fukin bitch! ... your going to need to keep your old one to use it to hit the new one in all the way.. buy some assembaly grease and grease that fuker up before you try to put it in... its really ez to change just hard to get it to go all the way in without tearing up your new one... your crank seal wont let coolant into your trans...

id rather use somethig that doesnt need to be sparyed that often but something that isnt mega tackey like the crap i have now... it seem like the shit i got now attracts things i the desert that arnt even there, ill come home with everything under the moon stuck to my case , case saver and chain

hey what chain lube , wax , oil or what ever else you guys use? the crap i use is too tacky and everything sticks to it.. need to use somethig new...

Bump...

well i know you can run 66mm bore with no issues, not sure how much wall is left if you go out to 68... if any im sure its not much... so if you f the walls up your jugs are no good.. well take that back you can always have the sleeves pushedout and re sleeved...

a 4 mill stroker with stock bore is a 373... to get 400 you got to go 66mm bore.... its actually a 396 but its known as a 400.... and if you go 68mm bore you got your self a 421... a great way to determine your cc is like this Size of stroke in mm x bore size in mm x bore size in mm x .007854 x the numbwe of cyinders.. Stock Stroke is 54mm Stock Bore is 64mm so a stock motor looks like this... 54 x 64 x 64 x .0007854 x 2 = 347cc a 4mill storker stock bore... 58 x 64 x 64 x .0007854 x 2= 373cc

indeed you are correct :beer:

go to sears and get one of these.... MUST HAVE !!!! they work great for removing locked screws...