Bansh-eman

no need to bend the tab... just stack some washers or the nylon spacer behind the hanger and it will shim its way out from the head... you need to bend anything...

just get a cr 250 kill switch... you plug the black and white wire from the kill switch into the black and white from the cdi.. and ground out the green on the kill swich...

depending on your gearing launching in second you can reduce wheel spin and also first gear is "done" and ready to shift into 2nd right as you take off anyways... so to save time and maintain speed you can launch with slightly higher rpms and do the same thing from 2nd... most of the guys with the big motors do this becasue they have the power to rip off the line in s2nd and not have bog... the tire size will make a differance just as much as your gearing does... i droped my wifes tires from stock yfz450 tires to me 18 inch holeshots when i ranover a nail and popped it.. now that thing has a TON of bottom end becasue the differance in the ratio to turn the wheels...

the thiing is on the damage any major damage your insureance covers it... and any mechanical shit is covered by your warranty... so only thing is if your carless and fuk up the seats or what ever... but you can buy the paint and fab protection and that helps too.. my concern is like when buying you can get gap coverage how does it work if its totalled while you are leasing and the insureace says its worth less then what you owe?they have any coverage for that?

get a stck of washers or a nylon spacer from the hardware store... put it between the frame and the hanger to bump the pipe from the head... mine took like 5 or 6 washers... and it has a small gap from the head... im going to try to find some nylon spacers once i take my bike apart here in a few weeks to rebuild it...

yea with the way my fukin wifes going we wont keep the car for more the a few years... like i said she is on her 5th car in a few years now she cant makeup her fuking mind.... so now we are big negitive... i dont know how my numbers cameup that jacked lol i guess talking to guys here at work and typing i had a brain fart... but the way i look at it is id rather pay 400 or 500 bucks one time and be done with it.... rather then trading in a car and owning 6 grand and now im paying 150 more every month for 6 years on a car... and once we trade that in im 5k more negitve on that one so that rolls in and now im paying 225 more then i should... ust eats me up becasue i was 10,000 ahead of the game before on her first car but she cant makeup her mind and now he are big negitive... women are quite possibly the dumbest animals on the planet! independant women my ASS!

return it to the seller if you didnt get it from ebay...

push the clucth arm by hand as far as it goes until it locks... then adjust it to lineup... from there it should be good...

i like the fiber and steel thing to hold the inner and basket and just put a penny in the gears.. but like i said above i got the tool so i didnt have to bother with it... i think i paid like 23 dollars or something like that for it...

well my wife bounces like fukin crayz in and out of cars... we have a big negitive now becasue she got a pos pontiac and now owe alot more then what that fukers worth...so we are looking at leasing a car... the thing i like is that you always are covered by warranty... if anything break they fix it... and the miles isnt a big deal casue i have my truck to travel in... i dont give a shit about "owning" the car casue like said you never keep it anyways... its not like a house... you normally trade it in before you finish paying it off anyways... and the good thing about leasing was that when your lease is up if your 10,000 negitve you just turn that fuker in and your done with it... where if you buy then your fuked and it rolls into your next car... just wondering if anyone knows of any hidden scams that you get fucked with doing this? i know if you turn it in damaged or over miles you pay but for every 1000 miles its 150 bucks... so say you go over 3k big deal thats 300 bucks... id rather pay 300 dollars one time then have a payment for 6 years on my next car thats 150 more every month... anyone else with advice please drop some lines... need some good ensight so i can make my desicion

anyone ever leased a car? tell me the good and bad of leasing... please dont list your opinions i want experiance... not i heard from someone or i just know becasue answers...

yea they are ez to install.. you take two nutz and back them up on one another and it keeps it from unscrewing... you back out the old studs and do the same to install the new ones... and both noss and pd take the same domes... both are good heads

id say do it this way, iv heard many ppl do it this way and have had no problems... i have a tool so i juts used that

yea if its longer then the stock length then its long travel...they dont really offer differant lengths just standard and long travel...

when you say it spins... what wrong with it?

i dont see how they can shut the hills down... everytime i go past the big ass sign that says comp hill closes at sun down on major weekends..i get pissed! we pay to use the whole fukin dunes.. not all the dunes minus the hills the fuker want to close for no reason... if its over saftey thats fine but to close a hill just for no reason i get workedup... i dont see how they can close one hill and not the whole dunes... it not any less safe to ride olds then it is to ride chinawall at night...if anything its more safe becasue theres more ppl there to help you if you get hurt...

its been awhile that i have done it but you should be able to hold it with the inner hub tool.... wedge it on the ground and torque it... if al else fails juts tighten it down as much as you can by holding the basket and call it good... you should have the little thing on there that bends over to hold the nut from spinning

dragging you want the 8x8 becasue you want a tall skinny tire that will "spread open" when you nail it... for general duning a 10 inch is the way to go

umm you iknow man im not sure if the long travle shocks will fit right on standard travel arms... it would depend if anything is in the way of the upper and lower mounts to hit when the arms move up and down... casue long travel and standard travel are setup differant

if the arms are +2 +1 that means they are extended 2 inch out and 1 inch forward... the shock mounts should be in the same spot... unless they are long travel arms normal shocks mounts up on them but need to be revalved to makeup for the distribution of weight now on your shocks

yea im not all that worried bout the bouncing as i am the clearity of it after spending 200 bucks for the damn thing

even with 35watt bulbs your running your max output... the stator doesnt have a strong consistant output... so your power fluxuates. id say get a bigger stator that can power all your electronics and have extra power so when you fluxuate your not underpowering your shits

when i leave cali im looking at either trading my banshee for a mustang or some late model hotrod with a little stuff done to her.. nothing crazy becasue i want to have it street legal but we will see..

does your just mount using velcro or you have an actualt helmet mount? also which one did you get? drop some vids on youtube and let me checkout how clear they are...

umm thanks for that info.. :shoothead: like said your ign. will get the power it needs... then the left over power from what ever size staor will power the lights.. and being that theres is about half the juice they need they will look like there is piss inside the lights cause they will be yellow, and very very dim...