IROOST1

You should never pay more than 40 per cylinder for a bore, hone, and chamfer. Shop around, any shop can bore. Eric Gorr did mine for that price and i got a complete new top end on ebay for 130 with gaskets and everything. When i was looking for a bore, i got quotes from $35-$140 per cylinder. Just find a good trustworthy shop.

Get a new dealer, they are full of crap. Yamabond is readily available at almost any place that sells yamaha's or parts for yamaha's.

Got One, Thanks

They resist dents pretty good, just get some good tires too. I like my beadlocks better though.

Somethin stock or aftermarket. I dropped mine and damaged the teeth on the gear. Something thats not too grooved. Let me know what you got, cheap, i have paypal.

I will have one done in about a month, 99 with title. Complete rebuild from frame out. 2001 motor that im putting new crank in right now. Fresh bore with wiseco's .020. I dont half ass anything either. I cant sell it any sooner than that becuase im still workin on it and am waiting for the title to get back from the state. Bills Pipes, new seat cover, tors removed, K&N filter w/pro plate, red plastics, silver frame. Your pick of wheels and tires, Ive got three sets. PM me in about a month if interested.

I have an +4 aluminum tie rod and a steel +4 Tie rod. Has anyone even heard of something like this or should i chuck them in the garbage? Will sell for $10.

Yeah, my dealer told me that its the same cost to rebuild a crank as it is to get a new one. So just get a new crank off ebay or a used one that off a part out.

yes, i have the washers in the correct spaces and everything is exactly as in the manuals diagram and in the pictures i took as i dissasembled it. it just doesnt seem right.

Good thing i asked, i was just gonna chuck em instead of reinstalling them.

No one has any used clutch plates???

I want to know if there are supposed to be o-ring things inbetween all the clutch plates. I have done a lot of two stroke clutches but have never seen anything like that. Wouldnt, they dissrupt the plates from grabbing one another.

Yeah, the inner basket and outer basket. With the plates removed, they should spin freely but they are not. I will have to make a took to hold the clutch so i can use a torque wrench on it.

I am finally beginning putting back my motor and am doing everything by the book. New seals, yamabond 4, fresh crank, powerwashed cases. Took pictures as i dissasembled. Now i got the trans back in, the crank all aligned. All the pins and clips are correct. And sealed the cases (also new seals with grease). But i got the crap back on the clutch side and used an air ratchet at 110 psi to put the clutch nut on. And after i got the clutch springs tighted, i go to turn the clutch assembly and its real stiff. And every revolution, it stops light its catching on something. I have checked everything. Could I have overtighted the clutch nut??? I know it says 65 ft pounds and i have no idea what my ratchet puts out. But i tried taking the clutch plates out and the outside basket is stiff turning as well as the inside hub. Please HELP>>> This is really aggravating. ::

I will give someone $10 via paypal for a set of used friction plates and steel plates. But I need them asap. Either priority mail or ups. So if you have a set, and paypal, and can send them out quick. Let me know. Thanks Dave ::

Its 32mm The same size as the nut that holds on the sprocket. $9 at sears. note:an air ratchet works wonders on getting the nut off.

I go through a lot of mud and water so i cant run pods. I need the airbox to keep water out. Im gonna try and get some of that paint for when i rebuild the motor next month. I think a mettalic blue would look nice.

I agree, Honda's are gay. Every honda i have ever owned, has spent more time getting fixed. My shee's and yz's never break. I even hit a tree once and didnt even phase the yamy. Shee's RIP 1987-2006 Two Stroke Forever..

A beer can and some double sided tapes looks nice too :beer:

I have an aluminum airbox and im going to make custom length boots from the carbs to the airbox. So does your setup work good with those manifolds? What type of paint did you use on your cylinders? That looks sweet.

I only bought the f1 but it was still 50 bucks. I could have gotton a new stock lever and perch for 20. The c5 is at least $100 and thats a ridiculous price for a lever. Just wait till you break it, you will most likely get the same crap that i got back.

I would rather have the aluminum manifold style. Thanks anyways.

I am looking for a some 34 mm intakes i think. At least thats what I was told when i bought the shee. They are much larger than the stocks. I need some nice ones that are in good condition for less than 80 shipped via paypal. Pictures would help. I have the high bid right now on some ebay ones but i always get outbid.

I'd go for it. The dodge's are good. Thats not a bad price. Just get ready to pay for the gas. Even my 4.7 dakota gets only 16mpg on the highway.

A neat trick is to wrap some colored duct tape on your axle nuts and it will tell you when the nuts spin.