RILS

In my area it would proably bring 2000-2400.Might get more if you find the right person.

Set the float.

What kind of setup does your neighbor have?I would never sleep if i had a neighbor with a faster banshee.

That is to allow the bigger bore.The trexs can be made to run very hard Ive heard they require more work to run there best but if outrunning your neighbor is you 1st priority it should more than do that job.

As far as being a 440 and 80 hp what diffreance does that make?If I were in your shoes and the warrenty was a concern i would have made the same decision.I dont know the bore on the trexs but im sure thats where you getting so many ccs.Imo ccs dont mean much of shit.65mm cubs +4 stroke=385, 68mm+4+421 and was looking at the dynos on the new72mm or 73mm I dont remember and they are like 485 cc and made 2hp and 1ftp of torque over the others I would ve thought it would have been more than that.I think it made 114 on alky and ive seen some 65mm and 68mm pull these types of numbers also so my point is the bore dont mean very much.Its all about the flow.

Im not here to bash anybody.As for dynos they dont really mean shit but on the 85hp I would say that your in line with everones numbers.As for dan at A&S I agree that hes a hard guy to get ahold of but when you do get him he anwsers all your questions and will tell you things that suprise you even if he doesent make as much money off you.One of the first things he told me was that his dyno reads off 1 wheel and usually reads 3-4 horsepower higher than redlines which I think is known to read low.You could proably go to say cpis or any drag pipe and pull another 5hp or so but your power spread will suffer.Im waiting on all the parts to put my 4mill together and dan and cam told me to expect around 90 from mine but that doesnt really mean anything to me when a dyno passes me i will be worried.And i would be worried if a equily built bike with stk carbs beat me but i guess im just running on now so.

Mx is all about suspension.As far as the motor goes I would say a decent set of t6s or simlar pipes I dont suggest these pipes often but for mx this will be one of the few motor mods you need.The other would be a noss head to bump the compression to get some life in the lowend.Other that that focus on the suspension front shocks will be the first youll need and the 450 shocks will be the most cost effective.A-arms and good tires and that should get you off to a decent start.

Ive heard of alot of people running the 33pwks with good results this may be a good choice for you.I would say there small enogh for a mild motor and big enough to supply a real strong motor,Ive heard some people running them on 4mill cubs with good results.It really depends on who you ask.Some people prefer as small of carb as possible to benifit the lowend and easy tuning abilty.Some prefer the huge ones for big horsepower.I would think the 33s would proably fit rite in with your current setup.

How extreme is your porting? What type of power are you going for?I found the stock carbs perform pretty well. I am running 34pjs now and they work very well with my porting and didnt loose any noticable lowend.The bigger carbs are a little trickier to tune but ir your porting is up to flow the gains from mid to top are worth the change.Im not sure how much youll gain from goin from a 26mm to a 28mm but ive never tried the smaller carbs so take it for what it is.

Your terrain has a big effect on your gearing.I was referring to dirt because thats where i ride and race.And yes its a big jump from 13 to 16.I went from 14 to 16 on a piped shee that also had 185psi compression with 20" tires and it was a bit much so i went to a 15.You will have to find what you like by tring diffrent stuff.If your modding gearing will constantly be changing,like i said im running 16/41 now and trinity pipes noss head drag port 34pjs and k&n pods and i start in 3rd and rip threw the gears like theres a 13 on the front.I would change it but next week ill be running a 4mill cub and switching to 22"prowedges and adjusting to that.Know anybody looking for a topend that will run in the mid 4s?

Im sorry ive never jetted a 2n1 setup im sure somebody here will chime in and help.

You will gain torque from the stroker and some hp as well.If your exhaust is at 28mm now and you put the 2mm spacer you will be around 196 duration.Most people have the domes cut and not use the spacer.If you cut the domes you can just drop the transfer floors to the top of the piston@bdc. Since you already have the coolhead you can simply just pick up a set of domes from david noss or about any builder a&s,fast,redline and passion are a few and drop the floors and be good to go.

With the 18" tires yo will proably be allright.I ran 15 on mine when it was only piped with 20"tires and it had no problem pulling it and i weigh about 170 pounds.Now im running a drag port and 16/41 with 18"tires and start drags in 3rd.I think 16tooth with 18" inch tires is a little lower gear than 15tooth with 20" tires,imo the 16 shold work very well for you.

I agree have the crank checked and if its on the upper tolerance limits rebuild it.I was saying I would not rebuild it just for the hell of it.As for the wrist pins Ive had the best luck with the oem yamaha bearings but I dont replace them with every topend rebuild from my experince its a risk with the old as well as the new.

I agree you are really gaining nothing with the bigger carbs on a stk motor.They can be jetted to run good on a stk bike but i find the keihins much harder to tune than the stockers and on a stock bike it would proably be that much more diffcult.If anybody can help you its wes he helped me get started with mine but the final tuning will be with you as you are the only one that can actully see and feel what each change is effecting.

I would like to help but more info is needed.Like pipes,elevation,porting and type carb your running.I doubt your jetting had alot to do with overheating if it did you would be replacing pistons and other related sizeures not the water pump and bearing and seal they were proably your overheating problem from the start.

Crank works is a good place but if it was running with out any probs before you can just replace the outside bearings and have it welded and be fine,I think you can pick up a stk stroke crank new for not much more than the price of a rebuild.Im going to tell you my philosify on rod bearings and wrist pin bearings and this comes from experciance if the ones you have are working without problems and are not over worn then leave them alone.Ive replaced these bearings with new ones a few times on many types of two strokes and had them go within a week and the old ones ran for years.Especilly wrist pin bearings I think some are good and some arent no matter the brand and if you get a good set hold on to them untill they show wear signs and then replace them.

Look for the wear on the sides of the pistons.Scratches grooves exc.Same thing with the cylinders.You need to mic the cylinders for taper and piston to cylinder clearance.Imo if youve wore out a set of rings its time to bore to the next oversize or whatever it takes to clean up the taper in the cylinders.Some may have diffrent opinions but this is mine.

Im with dojogejr on this fix the jetting first.You shoul be at 280-300 on the main if you still have the airbox and a 27.5 pilot 2 turns out on the airscrew.Then put the coolhead on there it will give you more controll over your lowend then any other mod.I run those same pipes with a drag port and34pjs with all the lowend needed for anykind of riding.I run 18cc domes@ about 185psi on 111octane @900ft.The higher the compression the more the lowend imo.I run 16/41 gears and in the dirt on new tires i pull 3rd gear starts with no bog what so ever.Thats with 18 or 20" tires Im going to pick up a set of 4-snows or prowedges and see how they work starting in 2nd. This is the anwser if you just want to spend all your time shifting gears.

Yours is just a piped banshee imo from the mods you listed.I dont even see pipes in your mods.

Dan@a&s gave me the best price on my parts but it was on a cub,im sure he can hook you up with a crank and porting and domes to match reasonable.I beleave his stuff is as fast as any.I found that to correctly setup a 4mill which includes matching up the porting and cutting the domes it was so close to a set of cubs that i just went with the cub.Now that was starting with a completlt stk jugs and ending up with drag ported 4mill cylinders,but if your jugs are already ported you can just drop the transfer floors to the top of the piston if your tranfers havent been raised, if they have then it will usually raise the transfer duration to high.Most builders will just drop the tranfer floors for about 100bucks.

That sounds rite.

Sounds like carbs would help you more than anything.I went from stockers and a dragport to a set of 34pjs and it really brought new life to the topend.Some cpis or any topend pipe would pull more.Did you ever measure the timings on those cylinders? The exhaust timing can really be usefull on choosing the rite pipe.

I think its aboub150+sleeve per cylinder.Unless its a really badass port job you might be better of picking up another set of used jugs.

I run dual 34s on my setup thar is very simlar to yours,went from stockers to them and since i got them dialed in I saw no lose on bottom and a stronger midwith a lot more rev.Im running 148 main 45 pilot with a cel needle.I agree the single would be easier to tune but other than that i see no advantage.In the long run you will happier with the 34s or 35s if your planning on a 4mill cub.Im in the process of building one now with the help of Dan@a&s and thats one of the first things he said "they like lots of fuel" ive not talked to many people running a single with a cub.