fastcar01

Look on Ebay, type in "banshee carbs", there is a guy that sells two complete rebuild kits (comes with everything, needle/seat, main jet, air screw, Orings, bowl gasket, etc) for $29.95 for both, plus like $3.00 shipping. I just bought them $33.00 and I rebuilt both carbs, like you saod that is OEM price for one needle/set.

Well is your tail light the correct brightness? If it is the frist thing I would check is the headlight switch. I have had this go bad one of my sleds. You will want to first verify power is getting to the switch, check that. I am not sure how the switch ties in there, but it should be pretty easy to check. After that you will have to check all the wiring. I don;t think it is too likely, but you can check the bulb sockets for corrosion, but this would most likely only affect one light, not both. I guess go ahead and check your stator ohms also. Doubtful, but check it, could have a weak lighting coil. I can't think of anything else it would be. When you give it gas, does the tail light really vary in brightness, if it is excessive, I wouldn't rule out that regulator. My first guess is a broke wire, following by a bad switch, check those things first.

From my experiance it does not change very much after break in, maybee a few PSI. I agreee with above, check it now and you have a baseline.

Well I am guessing it is like snowmobiles, it is different depending on what pipes you have.

Is that across the board or WOT? I know mine will run 1100 WOT, and part throttle it will hit over 1250. Like I sadi just check you plugs and the piston wash.

It really is different for every machine. The pipe manufacturer determines what it should be and even that is approx, based on the location the probe is located. The pipe manf. should give a distance that the probe should be from the piston skirt. The best way to figure out what it should be, is to hook up the gages, then make a WOT pass and kill it while moving. Note the temp readings, then read the plugs. If the plugs look good, you know what temp to run it at. Don't just use a figure of 1200 or so. On my sled I use D&D pipes and they recommend a WOT temp of aound 1150-1175. At this temp my plugs look perfect. Really at idle it doesn't matter what it is. Depending on your carbs, you may have a lean spot in the midrange, but this is a carb tuning issue. AC tripples are notorious for running hot in the midrange, especially when you big bore them, needle jets are too small. I know I would have melted mine without the gages. So bottom line is you check plugs and wash to find where you run best, then use that temp as your baseline. Do not use the temp as a rule, becasue there isn't one, each machine is different.

Thanks, I was hopign that was the case. It may be leaking out the clutch cover gasket also, seems to be leaking on both sides. It only leaks so much then stops, thats why I think it is that seal. I am going to change the gasket and both seals, plus I am changing the clutch.

Hey I searched but could not find the answer I was looking for. The shaft that comes out of the motor that the sprocket attaches to, I am not sure what it is called. But I belive the seal is leaking, it is either that or the shifter. Now I seen you can change the shifter seal, but what about the shaft seal I am referring to, can this simply be changed with the engine together? Or do the cases need to be split? Thanks

Sounds like an air leak then, try the spray method, youll find it.

Is that the going rate $100/hour? Around here (Michigan) it is around $55-$75/hour. Recently I had an Arctic Cat Tripple motormount welded up adn re-machined back to stock shape for $65 or $55 I can;t remember. If you really want to save money and you are close to a community college that has welding classes you could call the instructor or just pop in there. The intstructor may do it right there for free as a demonstration to some students. If it is an advanced class he may want a student to do it, but he shoudl supervise, so you should be fine. That way would most likely work, but would be a pain.

Start it up and spray some WD40 or Carb Cleaner at the reed cage/boots, and base and see if it goes down. If you hit a leak it will jump right down in RPM's, and you will have found your leak. Did you verify that the carb slides are going down?

That is normal to only shift through a few gears. Try spinning the motor and it may go through the rest. These kind of trans, work allot bettet when spinning.

Yeah, I was thinking up one size, but I guess I was wondering what most people use for jetting on a stock machine. I am a snowmobiler and the factory sets them up rich, so I was thinking it may not be necessary. I guess it varies but on an Arctic Cat you can usually pipe them and not mess with jetting too much.

I just bought a vented air box lid for my 96 Banshee. The bike is stock (aside from a boost bottle). Has 200 mains in it. Should I change anything in the carbs with the addition of this lid? I mainly ride in 60+ Temps. Both dune and trail riding. Thanks

I was there again today and those woops are bad. Last year there was about 3 of them before the start of the hill. This year they go up the hill for a while. I will tell you what thouhg today I was ridign better than ever. I race dtwo othe rBanshees and a KTM250, I won against all three. That was all the people there though.

I am a 2-stroke guy also, mainly becasue I am really into snowmobiles. I believe that snowmobiles are perfect applications for 2-strokes, because of the clutch setup; (providing you have it clutched right) during a drag race you are alwasy in the power band, and through the trails it also (again you have to change the clutch setup but again, if tuned right) I hate to say it, but for trail riding a 4-stroke bike and quads is the way to go, you can chug through the tight twister trails, it never loads up, and you don;t have to wait for the power to come on, or clutch it to make up for bad driving, always has plenty of torque. ONce you start modding a 2-stroke they become even worse, more like an on/off switch, not a throttle control. PLus the best thing is that when you get to the gas station at the next town, you put gas in it, no toting around or looking for high priced oil. Not to mention with the 4-strokes, you can skip allot of the gas stops completely. This is a fact! MY buddies 660 last year had better gas mileage than a modded banshee (65HP), a slighlty modded RM125, a stock KX125, and a KTM SX250 (which by the way is the probably best dirt bike I have ever ridden). Now I was at Bull Gap Sand hill the other day and even here, there were probably 15-20 machines out there and not once did a 2-stroke beat any of the 4-strokes on the hill. Maybee they were all tricked out to the bone, but they didn't seem it. 4-strokes get a bad rep, but I think mostly by people who have not been around them or ridden them much. They are more money to mod, but you get a more drivable machine. I love 2-strokes, and I am enjoying my first Banshee (1996), but I would certainly not rule out a 4-stroke as my next.

This is true

I think I might just flip it over and spray it good with carb or brake cleaner, then dry, then oil it. Unless its too late, sounds like it may be.

I guess I understood the question wrong. But you know what I find to be an easy way to get the coolant out of the crankcase is to use a coolant tester (bulb style) or even a turkey baster and suck what you can out with that. When you get it as low as you can, take a rag or paper towel (if using paper, use a good quality one) and just put it in a little ball and sick it in there then turn the crank slowely. When it gets to the bottom, let it sit there for a minute to suck it up. Do this a few times, then when you get as much out as you can, put a blow gun in there and dry it real good. Now it may not be necessary, but after getting coolant out of the case I always pour a little oil (same brand/type you normally run in the gas) on the rod bearing and spin it a few times slowley. Tipping the machine over would work, but you are going to drain all the coolant out and you may not want to do that, but even so after you do that I would still blow gun it a bit and re-oil.

Yes, but the carb shoudl work just fine. True all carbs are not the same, but they all have the same function and general principles. Unless I am wrong the only reason to use a vacuum style is for emmision purposes, isn't it? Either way why would the carb not work, it shoudl work just fine, and even better.

A carb is a carb. The only difference in the slide style is an emission friendly one and one that isn't.

Yes there is a drain plug on the bottom of the engine.

I don't see why the carb would not work. In fact it will most likely work better. 4-stroke carbs are the CV style (slide is actuated by vaccum), where on a 2-stroke the slides are hooked right to the throttle cable. I am not sure if this is alwasy the case, but I know Warrier carbs are that way, so the new carb shoudl be better. Just will need a new cable most likely.

I just rebuilt the carbs and I think I set the air screws at 2 turns. It was either 1.5 or two, whatever the manual said to. WHat is a good settting for stocvk setup in 65+ whether? Thanks

Well I checked the pick up coil gap. It was right at .020. SO I guess I could move it in some (I believe I read the spec was .015-.020). WHat next? SHould I bother moving that? One more thing I am going to change out those stupid phillip heads with some allen heads on the side cover. They were a pain to get out. ANyone know the size/length off hand?