fastcar01

You are too rich. There is way too much piston wash there. I guess you would get good life running a motor like that. Have you ever heard of piston wash? Here is a pic: Now if this is your first experience with wash I am not going to go into detail, this pic is a generalization to remain on the safe side. I would consider this a good trail wash. On a race machine I run them inbetween the right and middle one. Needless to say I monitor EGT's and take regualr plug readings as well, as I run them on the ragged edge. Your piston has more wash that the rich one in the pic. "After approx 70-75hrs. No cleaning AT ALL before pictures were taken, that's how they came out of the top end." No shit, just look at the wash. No offense here but I think you are getting kind of cocky and I don't think you know all you think you do. The good news about this, is it looks like you can do some tuning and make that machine faster!!!! It depends on what you are using it for, but it looks like you are too rich for anything. Do a search on piston wash. I hope this is OK to post: This is from CPC Racings web site. This is a good intro to piston wash: "After you have about two hours of test time on your engine, then pull your spark plugs and by using a cylinder bore light, inspect the carbon deposits on top of the crown of each piston. This inspection is called reading the "Wash". As air/fuel mixture comes up the transfer ports, this mixture has a tendency to wash the carbon off the top of the piston if it is too rich. If the fuel mixture is too lean then the heat of the engine will bake carbon deposits on to the top of each piston. By reading the "wash" expert tuners can determine if the air/fuel mixture is too lean or too rich. Adjustments on jetting should be made according to what air/fuel mixture makes your engine run right and this is determined by reading the wash. If your EGT's readings say that your engine is running too lean, but the wash on your piston says it is too rich, then always use the reading of the wash to determine what the jetting should be. Remember that the EGT's are just a tool to monitor and aid you in your tunning. Don't be so paranoid about reading the EGT's that you fail to truly tune your engine. Reading the wash on the piston is best accomplished by lowering the piston down to bottom dead center, and with a cylinder bore light inspect the outer edge of the piston by looking down the spark plug hole. On a full radius dome piston, there should be about 1/2 of an inch of wash (no carbon) on the top of the piston at the area of the piston in front of each transfer port (see Figure #1). If carbon is burnt to the edge of the piston in this area, then the jetting is too lean. You should then increase your main jets a couple of sizes and/or adjust the E-clip/needle jet settings. If you find that there is no carbon attached to the outer edge of the piston for over an inch, then the jetting is too rich. An adjustment on the main jet and possibly the jet needle/needle jet circuit may need to be leaned."

For years I ran the Amsoil 100:1 oil, but I did just what the bottle said and mixed it at 80:1, which is their recommendation for a race engine. It also says on the bottle, that at 100:1 it provides the lubrication required for all two stroke engines from 1963 to present. Likewise the Dominator/Interceptor says to mix at 50:1, which will provide the lubrication necessary. Now this next comment is just for the guys running Amsoil, if you have an older engine in your Banshee (a custom job with an engine older than 1963) it is probably a good idea to mix it a little richer, but if you are running a Yamaha 350 engine (the kind that comes in a Banshee) it is fine to use at the 50:1. You can run more and I guess it may be safer, but not necessary. It hurts you I am sure. The best way to prove this, is to simpy take some oil and dump it on the ground then some gas, light both of them on fire and watch the difference. Why would you want all that oil? The guys running other brands, like Klotz, or Benoil, or Yamalube, you should mix it at the 32:1 or whatever it says. I stress again, the oil manufacturer says what to mix their oil at. About the comment of Amsoil being a bad oil, I have heard that as well, from some people, and I have heard others (liek myself) who love it. I think it is a metter of opinion. About the manufacturer comment, they do tell you what to run the ratio at, assuming you are using Yamalube. Really if you want to play by the books, you should run Yamalube only. In all reality, I have ran enignes at 18:1 up to 100:1 and their is not much difference excpet the more oil the more you foul plugs. Maybee a difference on a dyno, never tried.

I am not trying to be smart here, but do you disregard all instructions, or just on oil? I also run Interseptor (in my race sled I run Dominator), except I run it how it is supposed to be ran, at 50:1. Read the bottle, it says right on it how to mix. Injection or 50:1 pre-mix. I am not sure why you would run all that oil, it is just wasting money and horsepower. The 32:1 (and richer) and such is for natural oils, and old oils. New synthetic oil has way better lubrication properties, therefore it can be ran at a much lower ratio.

For sure!

But I ride in the mud and sometimes it rains, so we hit large puddles.

I just did mine. When I did it I changed the clutch also, so I had the clutch cover off. All I did was slide the shift shaft out enough to pry out the seal, then pop the new one in. If you don't want to take the clutch cover off, you may be able to still do it, but it will be more difficult. I bet you could use a slide hammer with a screw in the end. But since it is leaking the way I see it, it is a good idea to drain all the fluid and start with new, so you know you have the right level and such. Either way, not a very hard job. In fact search on here a bit, there is a few posts about just this.

Perfect. Light cardboard in color. I used the 100:1 at 80:1, and my buddy uses the same in his modified banshee. Doesn't the bottle say right on it to mix at 50:1? The oil manufacturer dictates what ratio to run the oil at, based on the properties of the oil.

Amsoil at 50:1. Used to run the 100:1 (I ran it at 80:1) in my bike. Never had a probelem

Hey do you ride sleds? I have a bunch of Arctic Cat 9 Tower stuff, I bet we could make a trade there (if you could use the stuff). I could probably set up a clutch for you. JUst thinking what all I have to trade, have a bunch of Arctic Cat and Yamaha Sled stuff (Vmax and T-cat/ZRT stuff).

I am going to install the vents like Toomey says to do. I believe it says to take it off and install vents on the side, then put it back on. I am wondering though how much it matters to just install vents in the lid? I do hit water sometimes. Thanks

I have a 92 Eagle Talona TSI, AWD Burgandy in color. Body is OK, typical paint fade, interior OK excpet drivers seat, has a whole in it. It is leather interior. It is an automatic. The motor is locked up. It was running fine, then locked up. Turbo is good, trans is good, motor is complete, just locked up . EIther way, you could make money off it/part it out, or sell whole, or fix up and drive. I don't want to mess with it. I have too many cars here. The only thing is, you can;t have the wheels and tires, they are my buddies. THe only other thing it would need (aside from motor fixed) is a TCU, which I have a bad one I could give you ($179 to have it fixed). I want rid of it, I would trade that straight up, but you would have to come get it (just south of Detroit). I could send pics of it. I have the title. NOTE Hey I can work something out so you can take it with a set of tires/wheels Let me know what you have. A set of pipes may take it. I am open to all offers. Thanks

It came from a VNT Shadow, I belive it was 90 or 91. I could takje some pics, but I have to get at it, which isn't very easy, unless you were considering it (I have an Eagle Talon in the way) Actually I would trade you that also, I have a 92 Eagle Talona TSI, AWD Burgandy in color. Body is OK, typical paint fade, interior OK excpet drivers seat, has a whole in it. It is leather interior. It is an automatic. The motor is locked up. It was running fine, then locked up. Turbo is good, trans is good, motor is complete, just locked up . EIther way, you could make money off it/part it out, or sell whole, or fix up and drive. I don't want to mess with it. I have too many cars here. The only thing is, you can;t have the wheels and tires, they are my buddies. THe only other thing it would need (aside from motor fixed) is a TCU, which I have a bad one I could give you ($179 to have it fixed). I want rid of it, I would trade that straight up, but you would have to come get it (just south of Detroit). I could send pics of it. I have the title.

I have a Dodge 2.2 Turbo IV short block. It needs a rebuild, but I would trade it straight up?

Are we allowed to swear and threaten people on this board? I never type swear or threats, maybee its just me. It seems to me that there is a lot of hostile people on this board. I belong to a snowmobile board as well, and noone fights in the last few years as much as in the last few months on here. Is everyone on here young or something? Everytime someone asks a question that someone else feels isn't a good question they dog em? It is childish.

Yeah, I have split several dirt bike cases and only one time did I think I was going to need to have it split, but I got it. Just have to be careful.

How do you remove the stock airbox and reinstall it? It looks like it is riveted to the frame?

Your first posts says nothing about bidding. Thats pretty bad if you did not sell it to the first guy that offered you your asking price. I like to think that people on this board are not like that, hopefully I misread your posts, but it looks like you offered it for $25, more than one person wanted it, so you are taking advantage of the situation, by screwing the first guy that offered to buy it. Sorry for the rant, but that is just plain low.

Well, I am picking up a set of Bill's Pipes for my Banshee. I was looking at their site and it says use DYnoJet WHITE BROS. PART# 19-4320 needle. I found that on the net for $75.00. Does anyboyd know what needle that is, is it like a Toomey or Vitos? I would love to pick up a set of needles used for cheap, anybody got some? Thanks

Domes?

AutoZOne or Murrays should sell the bolts, just a standard one. The lug nuts are the same size and I went to Autozone to get one. They are used on Japanese cars allot.

Are you guys all serious? I read his post and didn't even notcie the spelling/grammer errors. I never understood why people on a hot rod board (cars, bikes, sleds, etc...) who are all supposed to be common sense smart (hence the fact you hot rod stuff) have a hard time reading something if it isn't spelled/written right. Come on people just like your perihrial vision (that aint spelled right) look outside the box, and understand what the person is saying, don't focus on improper spelling, this isn't a reading class.

How much you want for teh T-5's?

What symptoms will be presnt if they are switched? Thanks for the explanation

I keep reading this over and over that the slides can be in wrong. Please correct me if I am wrong, but there is a grove on teh slide and a boss in the carb, that only allows the slide to go in one way. I am not understaning how they go in wrong? In fact if you don't line up the groove and boss you can't even put the cap on becasue the slide will not go down far enough???? I am just wondering, my machine runs fine, but I am curious. Thanks

You can buy at Murrays (or any parts store) a cheap ring expander that will make this easier. They only cost about 5 bucks and it does help. It looks like a pair of pliers that expanders when you squeeze/ Otherwise like said above just walk it one there. You are not going to damage the piston, but you can snap a ring if you arn;t careful.