fastcar01

Your float is not closing. You most likely have a piece of dirt in the needle/seat, or it is just worn out. Either way that is your problem, for some reason you needle is not closing.

The screw on the middle of the clutch, try to tighten that a little bit more. Mine has always been this way, with the old clutch and I just put in a new one. I lined everythign up (arrows) and to get it fully engaged, I had to have my cable almost all the way out (new cable). I just gave the screw another turn and it is fine. I have plently of adjustment nwo in my cable.

The float height is definately critical enough to warrent measuring it. Check Toomeys websit. I believe it gives good directions. But basically, take the carb bowl off and tip the carb upside down. THen measure from the gasket surface to teh peak on the bottom of the float. You would have only had to barely bend it most likely.

If it started fine the first time, and the only thing you changed was the float height, did you double check that? GO through the carb real quick. Could be a float height issue.

Sounds like time for a new clutch. ROckyMOuntain has them for $45. Now I am not sure how good these are for a really beefed up motor, but me and all my buddies have ran these (they used to be $35) with no issues. ONe buddies machien is hopped up a bit. They are actually clutch discs. Since you have slipped it a bit, definatley change the steel ones and friction ones. Like I said at RM they are $45 with heavy duty springs included.

I had the same problem. My reed boot gaskets were not sealed.

Well if it is not really clean, now is a great time to hose it off with a pressure washer. Then you should see where it is cvoming from. Check the easy stuff first, hose clamps, and make sure it was not just overflow from the reservior. THen check around the base of the cylinders and near the head. Or the water pump area. That should cover most spots. That sucks, but just look around, hopefully it is something simple and not that base gasket. I would not use silicon if it was that, buy a new gasket. But if it is the gasket check the surfaces for flatness before putting on another. Let us know.

Just put a rag over the top of the crankcase and use a blow gun to blow down in there. ONce you get most of it out that way, take a rag, and crumple it up, then put it in the case and slowly spin the crank. You can stop when the rag gets to the bottom to let it soak up any excess. After you do this, apply some oil to the bearings, and spin the crank. No big deal.

Just go to a good hardware store (not an ACO or HOme Dept, a good one) or to a place like ACME Nut and Bolt, I bet they would ship it and be your cheapest. Another place you could try is called Keepfill, in Taylor Michigan, I know they sell to public and would most likely ship it to you also. JUst have to measure up what sizes you need. WHat bolts are you trying to chaneg, every one on the bike? YOu just need to know what sizes you need and go to a bolt shop, or a little more pricey option would be the hardware store.

You mean just face it off a little? Or do you turn it down? If you turn down the outside, what do you do about the risers for the pickup? DO you just go before and after them? "Just buy a flywheel puller, I got mine for like $15 take it off and send it to boonman or rocketboy." This is a fine idea for someone who has no machine access or does not have a buddy who can do it, or someone who has money to blow. I have not priced it out yet, but I bet it is aroun $50-$75 for either mod. I would rather save the $100-$150 to spend on other mods. Not to mention, there is nothing like the feeling of doing something yourself.

I saw your thread. I feel I could probably cut the star from the posted pic of the backcut. I assume the radius on the neutral backcut is kept the same, but I am not sure how deep to cut it. It looks like you just follow the radius of the pins on each point, but I am not sure where to start and end the radius (although it looks like you could wing both those items). I can do the work myself and would like to do it. I just don't want to cut wrong. I offered to pay for the prints, cause I understand people make money off this. I just want to save some money and learn.

How do you lighten the flywheel? I guess a better question is, is someone williing to supply me a print? Also What about a print on a modded star? I guess really just one that shows the dimensions to cut) I would like to do this, but do not want to cut what I shouldn't. I would pay a small fee for the prints if required. Thanks I should be able to open any CAD file, or a PDF would be fine also.

Well I just changed the clutch, I installed the plates, torqued, and then with the cable dissconnected I took all slop out of the lever and adjusted the screw in the center till the points lined up, locked it down, put it back together and the cable is adjusted out of the perch quite a bit, more than before with the old clutch. It works great, grabs right in the middle of the pull, but I am, worried it won;t have much adjustemnt left after it breaks in? THe clutch cover gasket did not seat correctly and it is leaking, so I have to take the cover back off. Should I tighten or loosen that screw a little? Or is this normal? The cable is almost brand new also.

Hey I sent you a PM

MIne had pretty much the same problem. I simply unplugged the TORS connjector under teh gas tank and she ran fine. Definatelky try that, it is one plug easy to get to.

I agree that is what it sounds like. One more thing to check is to make sure you are getting plety of fuel to the carbs, pull off the fuel line and make sure it pours out. I have seen the peacocks go bad.

I hate to say it but a crank seal would definatley do this, but unfortuanlly that is the harest thing to change out of all these. Did you verify that the slides were both returning down, when the throttle is let off. Make sure they both move together. Look at the joint on the cable where it splits from one to two, make sure the two cables coming out are seated in the Y real good, these can get twisted and not seated, causing a slide to not return down. If that checks out, you can try takeing the carbs apart and clean them real good. Still no luck I am going to go with a crank seal. I can not really think of anythign else it could be. Crank seals sound like a likely culprit, but check the other stuff first. Also did both piston look the same or was one leaner than the other (more carbon). You can test the crank seals by doing a leakdown test, I have neevr performed one myself, do a search and you find instructions. I belive you plug the exauhst ports and seal the intake, then rig up a air gun REGULATED DOWN TO A LOW PRESSURE, I belive around 10PSI, otherwise if your crank are not bad they will be after that.

An air leak would be my first guess, especially if you overheated it. Did you do a compression check? Do that before anything, but I doubt it becasue of the high idle situation. Get it started and spray some carb cleaner or WD40 around the carb boots/reeds, but more importantly (at least in your case) spray the base of the cylinders. If you hit the leak it will instantly drop down the idle and you found you leak.

The heat cycling is definately a good idea, then check the torques. After that, just ride it around a little blip the gas a few times first, before nailing it. The next time I do a rebuild I am going to run the oil a little rich the first tank, not sure if it matters, but I have some reasons to think it may. Basically the main thing, definetly since you have forged pistons, is to make sure it is fully warmed up before beating it. Aluminum expands more than metal, so your psitons should be set with larger PTW clearence than a stock one will, once it warms up it is good to go. Now if they are cast pistons, still warm it up, but it is not as critical. I agree with above you are going to get no one best way to do this, just personal opinions. Even a reputable shop is someones opinion.

IS that a dealer cost? That is a good deal if not.

CHekc out this auction: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/NEW-CARB-RE...sspagenameZWDVW

I do. I coat the pistons, rings, bore, bearings. Infact some shops (at least in the sled world) suggest a small amount of oil (I believ an oz.) done each crankcase side. I have done this and have not, so I am not really sure if it is necessary. It is a good idea to run it a little rich on oil the first tank. On an injection system, it is a general rule to mix the first tank at 100:1 in addition to the mix.

I do now use Amsoil at 50:1 (usually dominator), but for years I ran 100:1 at 80:1 in a RM125 with no issues ever. And a 125 is screaming the whole time you ride it. My buddy has a hopped up Banshee (approx 65HP) that he has alwasy used 80:1 as well (with the 100:1) and again no problems. I feel 20:1 or even 32:1 is overkill. I have a race sled that I run the dominator at 50:1 with no problems as well.

Well I ordered a clutch cover gasket, tranny shift seal, and output shaft seal (I guess that is what it is called). Is there anything else that could be leaking trans fluid? I have not looked at it real good yet, but I am changing the clutch, and I use Flex Drive, so I don't want to be wasting a new clutch or expensive oil. JUst wonderign if there is anythign else I should check while I am changing that stuff. Thanks

I agree with that, go ahead and check for dirt at the lever on the engine, but I would put a new cable on it also, they are like $10.00.