fastcar01

I have a brand new sealed 5 gallon pail of VP M1 Methanol.. i bought it this january for my sled, but never even sprayed it, so i never opened it. $25 takes it. text/call 734-308-6645 located in Trenton.

Anybody have one they want to sell? Let me know. Thanks

Hey u dont have a dirty air filter do u? I run the kn 2-1 and if the outwear clogs it runs great until under a load.

Well I just bought a dyna fs used. I brlieve it was on a 87-94 I have a 96. I have the color codes to hook up I believe.

That is my understanding as well. I can't believe the only difference is plug s. I was thinking differett timing curves and if so what is the best one. I do know some newer ones have a ebrake circuit.

What is different in the 95-96 model? My unbderstanding is all CDI's will work as well as staors with just wiring/plug changes correct? Thanks

Hey will the dyna work on a 96? I don't have the round plug on my stator but I don't mind splicing. I'm not sure about the cdi though. Im very interested please let me know if u know. Thanks

The one that holds the spark plug wire to the coil

The clip broke, I guess are they available anywhere? If not what do you use to put them in, RTV? Black Rubber? Goop? Thanks

I looked for a spark first (with teh plug grounded), but when I didn't see one, I put the screwdriver in there and held it to be sure. It works best if you have someone who doesn't know better helping you, ask them to hold it, lol. Pickup is 120, which is good, charging coil is 27 (with two meters), I did not do the compression test, but I am sure I have no spark, so I didn't chekc it. The 27 is 30% higher than the highest allowable, so i am not not liking that, and am betting on that. I ordered two boots, I will change them first and try again, then I guess stator.

Are all stators interchangeable except the square vs round plug? 87-94 used round and 95-07 used square? Eitrher way if I just switch the plugs can I use an old one in my 96? Thanks

Runnign perfect, then all sudden popped a few times and then stalled. DUring tow back I got it to pop a few times and even start to rev once, but nothing much. There is no spark when kicking, I held screwdriver in plug cap (I looked for spark first, then double checked). My ignition coil on stator is reading 27 ohms, with 2 different meters. One boot is open and the other is super super high (300 on the 200K setting). Did my boots go bad and fry my stator? Which one first or both? Thanks

I lost spark and am now failry sure it is the CDI. I see no visible broken/rubbed wires, I tested pickup/primary coil resistance (good), on the socondary coil I get OK ready across primary, but across plug boots it reads open. I also checked my buddies running machine and it read open across boots as well. I doubt both boots went bad, and it seems if one went bad it should at least kick/run on one cylinder. I read on here that it is rare for only one side of coil to go bad, so I am doubting that is the issue. TORS is disconnected already. Like I said I am leaning towards CDI. Are these any good? http://www.ebay.com/itm/CDI-ECU-Ignition-Black-Rev-Box-Yamaha-Banshee-350-1995-1996-/380377017437?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item58903cac5d&vxp=mtr I like the fact it is adjustable because I use Nitrous, so when I don't want to run it I can turn it up and when im on the bottle, I can turn it down? Any experience? For less that the price of one OEM I can buy two of these (one to run, one for spare, lol). Thanks

I came here looking for help and for some reason got an attitude instead. Not sure if he thought I did no research or if most people have already added the switch and now its just common knowledge but regardless attitudes dont help anybody and I wanted to know if there was a setup most people used? That post should have never been posted. If I don't know the answer I dont post a smart comment.

um? Did you find that to be a stupid question? Or is this is not the place to ask for advice or help, can you point me to the right forum for that? I did find a switch, apparently no-one one that reads here has ever done it. Now instead of acting like you, if someone asks me, I will tell them the whole procedure, which includes the swithcv, a special tap (15/32-32), and grinding away the throttle stop a bit, but it will last forver, trouble free. I still would love for you to tell me a screw in style requiring no modification, because I couldn't find one. Rather than you being smart you should have said nothign at all, this is a place to get and give advice, not an attitude.

I need to hook up a WOT switch for nitrous activation. Is there a certain swithc people are using? Any pics? My TORS is eliminated so im doing it in thumb throttle. I had a cheap swithc that failed and is just not robust enough. Im going riding this comeing weekend, so any help is appreciated. Thanks

You have the nozzles in teh boost bottle, or instead of a boost bottle? Woudl you by chance have a pic of how you did it? Thanks alot!

Thats kind of what I was thinking, but I am a bit nervous cause my injectors are slightly bigger than I would like to use. I would like to add abotu 20 HP, where as my NPFI's are 20 each. Total or 40 advertised, btu Dyno tests I have seen do not show that much. I went ahead and machined the plugs as originally planned, well see. I guess I was hoping since it woudl pressureize the bottle with n20/fuel it should help, don;'t forget were talking a Boss Noss system that best I can etll just lets the nitrous turn to gas before entering engine (300 PSI)

???? I dont get it

Woudl it work to spray nitrous/fuel into the boost bottle? I want to use 1 BOSS NOSS NPFI. Thanks

I just got a new nitrous system for my sled, so my old boss noss system is sitting idle. I might as well get some use out of it. I don't need the negatives of nitrous, I know them all and I use it and love it! A few years back I had some boost bottle block offs spun up and I am wondering how well it would work to simply drill and tap them for my nitrous injectors? They are simply solid platic barbs in the shape of the cross over tube/boost bottle barbs. I could easily drill them and tap them for my nozzles. They are actually Boss Noss NPFI's. I would no longer have a boost bottle, but would have 30-40 HP at push of button; I think the benefits should outway the negatives here. Has anyone tired this?

I am curious about it also. Mine has T5's and jetted with Toomey FIlter. I have most of a Boss Noss setup I am thinking about trying. Last winter I just added a Boss Noss kit to my Drag Sled and I love it! I really want to get the rest of the second kit (got it off Ebay) and try it out on the Banshee. It really is too much work to swap from one machine to the next, so I want them both to have it (also cause one day I would like to bring the banshee on the ice also). From my experience Nitrous is awesome! I did have some issues at first, but now it seems to be good. I think if you get a good deal it is worth trying for sure! I don't know about the boondocker setups, they seem a little funny to me, but alot of people are using them, so they must work ok at least.

Well my machine was not liking shifting at higher RPMs. Seems like it is worse than it used to be. I pulled off the cover and everything looks OK except the screw that centers the spring on the shift shaft was loose (black screw that has jam nut and lock washer). I thightened it back up, not sure if that could cause an issue. I went through the manual and it says to use that screw for adjustment, I am thinking maybee that could have been the issue. Now looking at my shaft the end plate (with the hooks on it) is a little wobbly, not muhc but a little. How do I tell if this is piece is OK or needs replaced? Thanks

On the last trip my bike got really hard to shift 1-2 and 2-3 under high rpms. I have always complained a little about this, but now it got bad. WHen racing I really had to short shift it to make it shift. It just wouldnt shift, didnt matter if I tried clutch or letting off throttle, just didn't want to shift. I had flex drive oil in it and switched to valvaline 5-30, it seemed to be a little better, but still not as good as it should be. WHat things are typical to cause this? Now I don't think this is related, but at the end fo the trip It started kind of knocking. Sounds to me like a rod bearing. I plan on going through it all, but I am afraid this trans thing could be one of those where eveything looks fine. Thanks for the help.

If you want to be covered in mud and sand cut them, otehriwse leave them on.