bansheeseat$$

Sounds like the plugs,Put a new set in and gap them around 23-24 thousandths.

WOW,Lucky!!!!!!!!! That was really nice of them to give you it for free

If your running stock carbs make sure you got the slides in the correct carbs and the choke tube is in place between the carbs.

Do a compression check and that will give you an idea of the engines shape.

Yeah they are not big sellers lol,I got 8 sets of them and 2 sets have never had exhaust ran threw them.I hold on to them for throwing them at strays.

Bump #2

Here is a link to my carbs and cables I have for sale.Let me know.. http://bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=121097&st=0&p=1051587entry1051587

Bump #1

Do you have needles for the T-5's or are they the stock needles?If they are the stock ones there is your problem.T-5's have a lean spot in them around 4000-4500 rpms.I'm thinking you are in that lean spot and why a bigger main helps.

If the bottom is boggy you need to change the pilots.Mains dont have anything to do with bottom end fuel delivery.

I have never had a fitment issue from there but I don't buy alluminum sprockets.I only buy the steel ones.

T-5's SOLD

Returned

Stuff that will fit all year banshees' Toomey T-5 pipes $125 Including the ride Stock Carbs with Toomey needles with aftermarket tops and idle screws.$75.00 Stock cylinder head from a 05 Offers excepted. Air box with K&N proflow set up No lid $50.00 Motion pro 1/4 twist throttle and cable used once $35.00 Motion pro thumb throttle cable $15.00 Prices not set in stone so P.M me if your interested in any or all.

I only use Keihins on my shee's but if you are going to run alky I would go with lectrons.

What needles are you running?If they are the stock needles that come with the 35's you may need to go to a DEG or even a EEJ needle.

It's great to have someone actually listen to others input and grasp the importance of some things,For that I salute you and it may save you abit of money also.Not sure if you already installed the clutch cover and installed the stator and flywheel but Every one I build for myself or customers I leave that stuff off when I do the leak down test it makes it alot easier to check the crank seals and drive gear key for leaks as well.

Pay attention while you are assymbling it and do a engine leak down test when it is together.

Your banshee is not ready for that big of carbs.You will be regreting that switch in its current configuration.

5 BUCKS you big spender $$$$$$$ LOL

Not a good Idea to leave one off,It will have uneven pressure and will cause problems with your fibers and there will be a vibration from the diference in rotating mass.My .02

The banshee dome has a 13 degree angle and the blaster has a 9 degree angle

Use photobucket or some other type of host for pics. As for your gearing for sand mountain with those pipes and size of tires you should be in the 14/41(stock) or even 13/42 range,Your compression will be around 147-152 psi at that elevation.You need to pull the stator cover off and verify if you have an advancable plate or not.

I rode saturday threw wednesday and then parked the rider and was at the strip thursday and friday.There was way to many people there after wednesday to ride for my comfort.Sorry we couldn't hook up.

Here are my elemination rounds,I made it to the third round but was sleeping at the light in the 3rd round and lost. My bike ran pretty good except for after 5 passes the plugs would cut out in 5th gear.My best pass was a 4.44 at 74mph in 300 feet.I had issues hooking up and could only get 1.711 60 foot times out of her.I am wearing the red hoody.