BansheeRider71

Hell ya thats a good deal, I bought mine brand new from the dealer back in 07 an it cost me $5000, last one they had, an now around my area there arnt too many banshees for sale the ones that are there is a 98 modded $3800 an 04 pipes & filter mint $4300 and theres a 95 for $3200, it looked kinda beat up, get it man, I hear the 06's are faster anyway lol jk not to mention you get to say you got one of the last banshees an its a S.E. at that an they didnt make to many of those.

A top end re-build is really cheap even cheaper if you do the work yourself, I had a modded out YFZ an got it brand new an modded it out, I almost did buy a banshee, then when my friend got one I wanted one again, sold my YFZ to get the shee, basically what im sayin is your gonna miss the banshee, just all around riding I would get a YFZ, if it were me I would just rebuild the banshee an save up $$$ an get another quad, (truly have the best of both) as far as the YFZ-450R I would wait til next year because they prolly havnt worked out all of the lil bugs yet Just my opinion.

I have CPI inframes and they are good but even better have a wicked mid range an top-end, an in your case you plan on alot of motor mods so CPI's would be perfect, they respond well to mods, T-6's are a good all around pipe an mainly aimed towards stock motors IMO.

When I was putting all of the mods on my Shee I used permatex, red for the Cool-head studs that go into the cylinders, and blue for a few things here and there, I havnt had any problems with it.

I run 80WT bel-ray gear saver, best tranny oil for a 2 stroke quad or dirtbike, I ran it in my blaster from when I bought it new years ago after break in I ran it til the day I sold it to buy a YFZ an I ran bel ray motor oil in it, an right after break in after I bought my shee brand new I have ran bel ray gear saver in it, I dont have to change the tranny oil in it as often, good stuff thats all I will run in it.

I used to run Yama-Lube an its good oil but this past April when I went from bone stock an decided to mod my shee I decided from then on I wanted to run KLOTZ, when I put my cool-head on my pistons an jugs looked amazing, very little carbon on the top of the piston, 15 to 20 hours with yama-lube, I wanted to run benol but it seperates if you leave it set or if it gets cold so I was told to run super techni-plate, best stuff ever IMO if I wasnt runnin klotz it would be yama-lube BTW I have ALWAYS ran 32:1 pn 91 until I got my mods now its 91 & 111 mixed 50/50 @ 32:1 with klotz super techi-plate, it smells good an its a great oil, hopefully when I get my shee ported the top-end will look almost as good as it did when I ran it on yama-lube.

You can get them individually, just buy the ones you think you will need, hit up Jeff at F.A.S.T racing, or like me when I ordered some stuff from Cascade Innovations I got the jets I needed, got their needles, 2 27.5 pilots & 2 30 Pilots, an 2 310, 320, & 330 mains, got my jetting super close if not spot on for my mods, cascade needles on the 4th clip, 2 330 mains, 2 27.5 pilots, an 2 1/2 turns out on the air/fuel screws from all the way in.

Ya man those arnt cub or cheetah cylinders, if they were cheetah's they would have power valves on the sides by the exhaust ports, those are stock cylinders an it has a cool-head, and if you run the 4mil stroker crank on stock cylinders I think its a 370, I am pretty shure you would have to run the spacer plate for stock cylinders, If I were you I would run either 32:1 or 40:1 for premix,

As far as jetting mine had like 200 or 220 mains, 25 pilots, an stock needles were on the 3rd, I beleive the air/fuel screws were 1 an 1/2 turns out from all the way in, I just looked at my stock main jets an they were 200's Ya I hear ya man, I just modded mine last month, it was bone stock, as far as jetting for the CPI's that was easy too,

97hp,!!!! Man I bet your shee is bad ass, but I wanna see the dyno sheets to prove it, like NYUK said if it has those hp numbers its prolly a drag bike, most drag bikes only have minimal electrical just so it will run, so no lights an key, but anyways I wanna see a pic of the quad, its cool to see other peoples quads.

In that case man I would run AMS-Oil or Yama-Lube 2R, I ran 2R until last month when I switched over to KLOTZ Super-Techniplate, Yama-lube is like $6 a pint an KLOTZ is $12 for 32oz, I like KLOTZ alot better, but if I didnt run that it would prolly still be Yama-Lube 2R.

That little thing is handy, back when I ran yama-lube all I did was put in a pint(16oz) to 4 gallons of gas = 32:1 I do the same thing now that im running KLOTZ Super-Techniplate for 32:1

Ya man the timing plate is a better mod an its more reliable an a better design.

On my old YFZ450 I had an ASV an it was easy to pull an pretty comfortable for a clutch lever, on my Banshee now since I took off the T.O.R.S. an E-brake, I bought one of those Cascade Innovations clutch levers, it looks great an has a pretty easy pull, they also sell a better one with the roller bearing built in, I imagine its buttery smooth.

Hey im gonna try to be there too, it will be my first trip too, I hope to see yall HQ peoples there.

Welcome to the HQ, good thing your ok an your trike is too, ATC's = 2 words DEATH TRAP,lol, I can remember when I was really young in the mid 90's my uncle had a 86 ATC 250R an my cousin who hadnt rode anything but a small 80cc dirtbike an it was christmas an we were all there visiting an my uncle let my in-expirenced cousin ride the ATC an its christmas eve an we were all outside an my cousin was doin pretty good an went down the driveway an gravel road back an forth for about an hour an I was lil an thinkin damn I wanna go fast but anyways he comes sideways into the drive way one wheels it strait into the mailbox he had to get alot of stiches, I still remember christmas morning he was in bed the whole day sore while I enjoyed my presents,lol.

its 60 ft-lbs for the fly wheel nut, I had my Clymers manual out an I looked real quick,lol

Last weekend when I was putting on my timing plate, I used a U bolt that was spaced out far enough to go in the holes of the fly wheel an used a small piece of tubing that was laying around my shop to hold it in place when I was removing it, when tightening I did the same thing an like LS1Inferno said just hit it with the impact until it quits spinning an hit it again once or twice for about a second an that should hold.

I removed mine last week actually,lol, since mine is all tore down an im modding the quad an everything, T.O.R.S. never gave me problems on my shee because I have only put 15 hrs on it an I bought it brand new last year, I have been extremely busy, But the main reason its its just a waste of space an it makes the carbs hard to work on an its just a bunch of crap that the bike doesnt need to make it run, also when I had my 03 Blaster even though I bought it new back in 03 after I did some mods an I left the T.O.R.S. on there an after I washed it one day after riding it wouldnt start because somehow there was water in there an from that day on it would cut the throttle off sometimes, after that I swore that if I ever had a Banshee or another Blaster the T.O.R.S. would be gone.

Torque the head bolts to 20ft lbs an then ride an if they come loose again just retorque them, if the problem keeps up then use medium(Blue color) strength loc-tite, I am doing alot of mods to my shee an the pro design cool-head is one of them, I hope my bolts dont come loose.

Turn on the key, pull the choke, kick it slowly once an then kick it kard an it usually fires then let it idle for a few seconds on half choke rev it up with it the choke off then take off an ride.

Im almost positive that if you run 19cc domes an below that you gotta run race gas.

That color time-line was in a post here on the HQ also, I think it was in the "Banshee Appearance" section an it had all of the years and colors 87-06, it may have shown the Canadian 07 & 08 ones too but I dont remember,

Definitely would be the YFZ-450, I used to have one with alot of mods done to it it was fast an it handled great an I loved the suspension because I jumped the hell outta that quad, Or maybe the Raptor 700R, those are badass when they have a pipe, chip,K&N filter, an they handle closely to the YFZ.

I was thinkin with 330 mains an 27.5 pilots an needle on the 4th clip an 2 1/2 turns out on the air-fuel screws that it would be the right set up, 340, 350, 360, mains all sound extremely rich, better to be rich than lean but not that rich, I ordered my jet kit an jets today, im thinkin that I will be alright with 330mains, I hope so at least, I just need to get my jetting right or as close to right as I can for my shee to run good.