jbooker82

I run a prodesign. It deffinatly isnt the cheapest but it is a nice radiator. josh

good job bro

One more question. If your lockup is always spinning then why does it slip when you launch out of the hole? I am not trying to explain the hard shifting. I am trying to explane why a lockup does not cause your banshee to creep forward when you rev it with the clutch in while your stopped in gear..

The lockup is bolted to the pressure plate. The pressure plate is bolted to the inner hub with the same bolts that hold the lockup on.. The inner hub is splined and is held on to the transmission input shaft by a nut. How can the lockup, pressure plate, inner hub, and transmission input shaft be spinning when your STOPPED in gear with the clutch pulled in? I thought the crank drives the basket (wich holds the fibers) and the inner hub (wich holdes the steels) drives the input shaft.

Nope when your stopped in gear with the clutch pulled in the lockup isn't even spinning. The lockup is bolted to the pressure plate and inner hub.

I went from an mx port to a 4mill drag port tunnin pwk33s and T5s on both. It was a big difference. It was just as big of a difference swapping the T5s for CPIs.

If you wanted to paint your a arms just take a torch and heat the a arm up. It should melt the bushing enough that it would slide right out.

If your cylinders are drag portrd then you won't be able to have them reported for the 4 mill. The ports would be opeaned up to much by the time they were lowered back down. (4mill crank will have the pistons fall 2mm farther down in the cylinders)

Are you that asian guy that is blowing the money out of your garage with the leaf blower on that wireless comercial?

Is the finish Anodized, powder coat or paint?

Yea that should start you out rich. Your running Dual PWK's right. A single 2:1 jets much differently.

I dont think there is a pipe that works good with a 2:1 carb. I would get the toomey's and ditch the 2:1

160 Main Probably end up at 152 or 155. CEL Needel middle clip 48 pilot you could end up at a 45 pilot. Air Screw 2 turns out

That looks to be a hot dune port with powder coated / painted intake. You would have to get rid of that tooth pick inorder to have a full drag port.

If you would like to save some money and take the short cut here is what to do for engine mods. Pipes 4mill stroker crank Port Job Cool head PWK 33's Timing Plate POD filters. That way your not paying for multiple port jobs/top ends on multiple pairs of cylinders. And you will also have the right pipes that match the style of port job you have. That way you dont go from FMF Fatties, to T5's then finally end up at CPI's or Shearers, or vise versa.

It could aslo be a combination of both. I would go with the tm desing works bushings. They have them in the same graphite impregnated material as there chain sliders.

Yea that will work sweet with a 4 mill.

What that is no port job. You need to have the intake bridge completly ground out to make one big port.

I don't think I would get the endurance, all it is a speedometer. Get the vapor. It has speed, rpm, eng temp, and air temp. It keeps max rpm, max eng temp, max speed as well. It comes with a plastic clamp that mounts to the bars. I have the trail tech dash board billit protector. It is a nice setup.

I would say it is your pilot. Guys running methanol don't even run 60's. When I was running a stock stroke ported 350 with fmf sst' and 34pj's I ran 155-152 main 50-52 pilot and cek needles on the middle clip. Did you use a carb sync to set the idle adjustments. You about have to with PJ's.

I believe hot rods have discontinued there short rod stroker. The long rod is more reliable that is what I would go with,

Hot Rods 4 mill Long Rod crank with Max load, and TZ bearing here. I wouldnt be looking to save a few bucks on a crank.

I only run mine when required to. When they are not being ran they are soaking in a gallon pail of carb dip. You need to keep them clean so they dont plug up and cause a power loss. Cobra's are probably the most free flowing clamp on spark arrestor. The greater the screen area the better the flow. josh

Yep hold it in your hand and start spinning it. You need to make the diameter of the wire that the spring is made up of smaller to make it softer. Cutting coils off will still have a hard thumb throttle at wot.

Flushing the engine could make things worse. You might end up just washing the sand and dirt into the crank bearings.