jbooker82

If you want to make your springs softer dont cut the coils off. You need to take a grinder to them and grind down the out side of them. Make the wire thiner. If they are Keihin carbs you could also buy a set of ez springs from jeff at fast. I have them in my PWK 33's and it is softer than stock. josh

I would go with a set of K and N pod filters with outerwears. Do you ride in the mud or water? Pods are individual filters that clamp on to each carb. It makes jetting much easier by getting rid of the air box all together. You will also need a waterbottle bracket for the coolant rez.

Get some valve grinding compound. Put some on the arbor of the crank and some in the flywheel. Then put the flywheel on the crank and start spining it back and fourth. It makes sure that the flywheel and crank have an exact fit. I like to do mine with the stator plate off. That way i can clean the crank arbor good, and not get any in the seal. It would tear it up if you did. I got my valve grinding compound from napa. They have 2 different kinds. A water based, and a greased base. I would get the water based, it is easier to clean up. It also works good for getting striped scews and allend head bolts out. The screwdriver or allen wrench bites in to socket with that stuff. It feels like your going to twist the scew off before the head will strip.

And you need special viton o rings. I dont know the specs but I do know they are not the ones you can get at your local hardware store.

Heat cycle it a couple of times. Re torque the cylinder nuts, and head nuts. Take it easy for the first 5 gallons of fuel then ride it like you stole it.

Yea the octane boosters are junk. If you read the bottle closly it will say that it boost octane rating 7 to 10 points. What they dont tell you is that it takes 10 points to go up 1 octane number. IE 90 to 91 octane. A gallon of race fuel is the same price as a bottle of octane booster and it will work 10x better. You mix 3 gallons of 93 octane pump gas with 1 gallon of 110 race gas you will have 4 gallons of 97 octane.

Yea laping the flywheel makes a huge difference. I usually do a quick lap job everytime I take the flywheel off. It sure makes it harder to pull off next time though. :biggrin:

Banshee is no doubt the best for the dunes. The only draw back is you will go through 2x as much fuel compaired to the 450's and 660, 700 raptors. They do make larger 5 gallon capacity fuel tanks. Dune Ported 4mill with CPI pipes and PWK33 carbs should do the trick.

Yea there is no way I would use rtv or high temp sealer on cases. Gasoline will brake it down. Take a dried pice of rtv sealer and put it in a little gasoline. See how long it takes to break down. Yamaha bond, three bond, moto seal are designed to be used on engine cases. It holds up to fuel way better. It is made thin and stringing for a reason. There will be to much clearance between the engine cases and crank bearings using rtv. The engine cases need a thin sealer so they stay with in spec.

I run engine ice. It is good to -24 or -27 deg F

Yea I would say they are acceptable. Here is a chart at noss machine. http://www.nossmachine.com/banshee_heads.htm The 20's should be right on if your wanting to only run pump premium fuel. Generally you shot for 150 psi of compression on pump gas. josh

Yea it depends on modds and elevation 130 PSI is the ball park for a fresh stock top end at sealevel.

Avenger makes them. I have a set of them in +1 Width +0 Forward. They are a good a arm. They use regular ball joints instead of heim joints. They also have grease fittings and poly bushings. http://www.avengeratv.com/banshee.html

Both are sold. Thanks guys

Did you pull the coolant drain bolts out of the side of the cylinders? Those are there so you can drain the cylinders before you tear it down. If you didnt that is probably how it got down there. I would just blow it out with an air compressor. josh

Not really I just wanted matching levers. It is nice becuase you can adjust how far away from the bars they are.

My bro had a 2003 Suzuki SV1000S. It was the burnt coper/orange color with the full faring. It was a fun bike to ride. Sure it wasnt as fast as a GSXR but it was street, stop and go driving friendly with the big v twin.

Yep. It has a spring loaded bb in the knob that clicks every 1/4 turn or so. It also has a plastic sleeve that goes between the perch and handel bar that let's it rotate if it gets hit. I belive you can get the f3 lever with the pro perch as well.

I run the blue tinted Piaa H6M bulbs in mine. You can get cheap knock off brands off of ebay. I would take the bulb out and in to the store to see if they had them.

I wasn't having him look at the plugs to check his jetting. I was having him look at them for signs of detonation. I would probably wait to start it back up until I checked the squish. I would probably want around .040. If you get a good squish I wouid then drain the fuel and try running straight race fuel. See if the sound still exists and if the plugs back out. Using a guage to determine what octane to run can only get you so far. The pipes also affect compression. You will have more than 150 psi of compression when your banshee is in the powerband and the port timing and pipes are working together.

Wich ever one you get make sure you get the pro perch. It is the one with the big x shaped quick adjust knob. The non pro perch uses a screw adjuster with a jam nut.(Same as stock). If you get on asv's site they have an application chart. I think the lever is the same as a raptor warrior banshee and even other dirt bikes. It is almost a universal part. I just went all in with my banshee. C5 Pro Perch and C5 brake lever. They are nice. Mine are the black ones.

I was just wondering if they had a grey ash look to them. You might look at them with a magnifying glass looking for specks of aluminum.

What is the squish clearance? What did the plugs look like?

I would pull the stator cover to make sure something didn't come loose and bind up behind the flywheel. I had a stator plate do that to me. It locked up tight.

No mixxed results here. Cascade heat wraps all the way.