jbooker82

I would run Keihin PWK33's.

I would use 2 stroke oil. Grease or assembly lube will burn and carbon up. Even on full size engines, builders use engine oil to lube the cylinders and pistons, they use assembly lube on the bearings, crank, cam, lifters, rockers ect. They use it were oil will take it away after the engine is started. With a 2 stroke there is no pressureized oil system that will take the assembly lube away. josh

Yea I am sure that is deffinatly the case.

You might try going to the hardware store and get some rubber washers and regular flat washers. Sandwitch the rubber washer between the intake boot and the flat washer.

I think your main is to big. The only people I have seen run a 180 main are the ones who run a 2:1 carb. You also dont need to run BR9ES plugs. People who run methanol run the 9's other wise stick to the BR8ES's. How long of a run time did you have on those plugs. You should have no color if on the tips if you did a proper plug chop. #1 warm it up on the old plugs. #2 once warm take it out for a wot pass to clear it out. #3 put the bran new plugs in. #4 Fire it up and imidatly go wot and run it through the gears. #5 Simultaniously pull the clutch in and kill the engine. Cost to a stop. #6 Take the plugs out and put the old ones back in. #7 Cut the threads off the plug and post pics. You cant just pull the plugs and tell how your jetting is.

Pipes and Porting are your 2 biggest HP gains. If your dead set on getting a port job soon, I wouldn't buy pipes until you talk to the guy that is going to be porting the cylinders. He knows what pipes work the best with his port jobs. That way you will have the best setup possible. Jeff at Fast is a good guy to deal with. I have a dune ported 4 mill with CPI pipes, and 33mm Keihin PWK carbs. It hauls the mail. Most builders are back logged with work and a 1-2 month wait isn't out of the ordinary. It is defiantly worth the wait. www.farmandsandtoys.com

And those probably dont, creek, squeek, and pop like crappy hiem jonts do.

I would say it looks like it is from a previous melt down. If your worried about it then you can always look for a nother head on here or ebay. Might as well shoot for a milled one and up the compression a little.

They should be installed betweent the reeds and cylinders. If they were supose to be installed between the intake and reeds then the would be called intake boot spacers. On the intake streem you want the sizes to go from smallest to large. If your carb boot is dumping in to a larg hole (reed spacer), then being necked back down in to the reed cage that is bad for flow. Pic right from Passions web page. http://www.passionracingengines.com/

I guess cub cylinders are junk just like the boss intake since they leak too. Could it be coming from inbetween the threads of the bolt and hole? Like if the bottom of the bolt hole is opean to the intake tract? If so you might try some type of thread sealer.

There was a member on here who did some nice work. I cant remember his screen name though. I havent seen him on here in a while. His name was blk_banshee or something like that. FireHead knows him maybe he will chime in. josh

One more thing. Check the squish before you fire it up. You bend a piece of solder in to an L shape. Stick it in through the spark plug hole. You want to go parallel with the wrist pins.You should be able to feel the end of the solder touching the cylinder wall. Then roll the engine over by hand. Take the solder out and measure the thickness. You want to shoot for 0.040 or so.

WHat all do you want to know? I would deffinatly recomend the 4mill build. It really makes for a strong midrange. Most builders port the cylinders to run no spacer plat. Instead you run a cool head with domes cut for the stroker. Are your cylinders ported now?

Don't do it, it will kill top end. Stay with stock carbs and your cpi's. Use the money for a dune port. Then get a pair of pwk33's.

I have a FAST Dune Ported 4 mill running CPI's and PWK33's. It flat out rips. Jeff is a really nice guy to deal with. Give him a call. He will taylor the port job to your riding style and weight. Yes rider weight is important. Bigger (240)guys like me like a little more torque out of the hole, compaired to a guy that weights a a buck fifty. Give him a call and talk. www.farmandsandtoys.com

I guess you need to make a post how you got screwed over.

Yea I would say screwed over means your out money, not at the dead end of a deal. Stuff falls through all the time. If you need them yesterday and don't have time to make a deal then buy new. By the way Keihin doesn't make a 28mm PWK Air Striker, they only make the standard PWK 28mm. Air Strikers are only available in 35mm, 36mm, and 38mm. http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pwk.php

I run a trail tech vapor. I like it. Seems to be holding up pretty good. I did have the problem with it reseting too but running resistor plugs (BR8ES) fix the problem. I was getting so much interfearance with the B8ES plugs that I was getting a tach reading with out even hooking it up. I do run a Nology Coil with Hot Wires though. The magnetic disk break bolt is holidng up fine as well. Dont plan on reading the tach while your riding. It is nice to go back and see what max rpm you hit though, I am running the trail tech billit dash for mine. It replaces the handle bar clamp. I would recomend it. josh

Do the final wipe down with acetone. It will remove all finger prints, oils, and polish that is left over.

I run a nology coil with nology hot wires. The dyna tek would be anther good one to buy.

That hose isnt rated for that type of heat. If you really want to know if the coolant is circulating get a temp gauge.

You will probably need new jugs. The ports on yours are probably opeand up to far to recorect the port timings for the 4 mill crank. Most guys that run a 4 mill run a cool head with custom cut stroker domes. josh

I dont think they make them any more. Wasnt the company name Pure Sport?

They are PWK 28's. They are a nice upgrade from stock. Here is what my pwk 33's look like. The part I was talking about is where the cable goes in to the carb. Yours has just a flat plate held on by phillips scews. The 33's and up have a black composite scew on cap.

I like to have about the thickness of a nickel in play between the clutch lever and pearch. That way you know it is engaged all the way. If it is to tight then you might not engage the clutch fully when let out and could burn / slip the clutch. I found when trying to fish for neutral give the engine a quick rev with the clutch pulled in then find neutral as the engines rpms come back down. josh