jbooker82

Hypoid Gear oil = much shorter clutch life due to the fact that it has friction modifiers.

Most people shoot for .040 and absolutly no tigher than .035

That and the piston head runs a more uniform temperature. Forged aluminum conducts heat better than cast.

The proper way to do it would be to install the top end. Measuer the squish then go from there instead of blindly cutting .035 of the head. Measure first, cut second.

Did you bump the float when you had the bowl off, or did you just take out the 17mm plug? Float hight could be off. josh

You do realize that is a 80w90 Hypoid Gear oil made for differentials and gear cases in cars and trucks right?

If you absolutly need a high output stator then I would try a Ricks Motor Sport Electric's stator. They are expensive. http://www.ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/index.php They have a green thick coating over the coils kind of like the stock stators with the grey coating. You can find there stators on ebay for around 180. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/YAMAHA-BANSHEE-YFZ-350-ENGINE-MAGNETO-STATOR-95-04_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5d28b743c4QQitemZ400115057604QQptZMotorsQ5fATVQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories The only down side to them is that they have 2 lighting circuits (yellow wires) so you have to run dual voltage regulators, and lighting circuits. josh.

Here you go. http://www.keihin-us.com/am/products/pj.php Shows 41mm.

Yep dave noss will be the guy to talk to. I had him cut a pair of Blaster piston 4mill stroker domes for me. josh

I havent ever herd anybody recomending a Wiseco Crank over a Hot Rods crank. Hot Rods crank, and Wiseco pistons.

Yea dont use RTV or any of the Ultra sealers. They are made to seal oil and will not hold up to fuel. They can also cause the cases to not be fully seated because they are thick. Yambond, Honda bond, Three bond, and Moto Seal are all thin and are the right product for the job.

I have just been riding beforer. Stopped to check the fuel and you could see the bottom of tank.

And you wont have a reserve any more.

Or a new set of cool head domes are like 60 buck. Probably the cheapest way to go if you have to buy the tools to fix it. On a side note dont use an 1" drive impact to put the plugs in.

Just see what it initally does when you put the filter in the solvent. If the filter swells up then it probably inst good for it. I doubt you would ruin a filter doing it just a couple times. josh

Would that also include the Buyers that hound a seller. Then start bad feedback the day after they sent the money because they havent recievd an answer to there 100 PM's yet? There are buyers that expect to much as well. Used parts for 50 cents on the dollar and it better look bran new. Some people would complain if you hung them with a new rope.

My father in law runs foam filters on their dirt bikes. He says using solvent damages the foam. He just uses some filter cleaner and dawn dish soap. Rince it clean and wring the water out. Then he oils it while it is still wet. Soak it down with foam filter oil and wring it out. The oil will push the excess water out. One down fall to K&N's is you have to wait for the filter to dry before you oil it.

Swap the stator for a stock good stock one. That will help with your probem. I chased jetting all over the place until I replaced my faulty 200W Ricky Stator. You should be able to keep the 35's at WOT all day long. They would be for more top end. That is where they shine. Or do you have problems with them Icing up in the cold weather?

That is the fun part. Just like putting a full size modle to gether. Put some antisiez on the a arm pivot bolts. That will keep them from rusting to the inner steel tube. It protects a lot better than grease.

You shouldn't be hurt to bad. You should be able to turn them if you absolutly dont want them. Just make sure you properly describe them. At least you got something to sell where you would just be out if he just kept you money and ran.

What pistons are you running? Maybe they are blaster pistons. They are shorter in hight, and can be ran with a long rod crank from 66mm bore and up. Other option would be ditch the spacer plate and do it right with a cool head and custom cut domes. I know it will affect your port timings, but that is how it should have been built in the first place. I wouldnt ruin the cylinders by decking them to bring it back in spec.

Why at the end of the film when they talked about flow they just thew numbers out there. They did not do the floating ping pong ball test, or better yet a real CFM flow bench test. Surely an air filter mfg company has access to one. That is because they knew there filter would look bad, and since it is an Infomercial designed to sell products they wont show that. They just made claims. One of wich is there filter with 6000 miles on it makes just as much hp on a dyno as K&N and Paper filter becuase your engine doesnt need the extra air. I am sure a K&N would make as Much HP with 6000 miles on it. They just used the 6000 miles to reitterate that there filter is still better than a K&N. It sounds better. Why not have equal testing across the board, compair them directly. Two seperate test, All Clean and All with 6000 miles. The test were probably done but more than likely it showed something they didnt like. Cause if the K&N hugly dropped of performance they would be standing up on there soap box preaching it. They dont mention it, so it probably didnt go in there favor. Lower Flow than a K&N but the same HP because your engine doesnt need that much air. Really? I am sure he is right, I dont need any more air I already got enough.

Like I said. In an Infomercial you wont ever hear one bad thing about the product they are trying to sell you. Hell if there was a Leading Brand Foam filter that was dominating the filter market you could proababy find a videos of other foam filter comanies tearing the Leading MFG's Foam Filter appart trying to sell there own. I will stick with K&N's

#8 really wasnt broken. You paid him money and he sent you the wheels and tires you wanted. How is that a Deadbeat seller? The problem is that YOU settled for the pic he send you, and HE didnt disclose the damage. If he told me there were scraps and scratches I would have asked for pics of the damage, but apparently that didn't happen. By the pic's you posted the lip of the rim looks to be the only real damage. The slightly oblonged holes, and markes that the lug nuts, and where the wheel makes contact with the Hub are just wear and tear. Some time's buyers have higher expectations than what they should for a USED item. If you really wanted bran new wheels and tires, then that is what you should have boughten. You can go broke saving money. josh

It is a TM Designworks cover. I don't know if they make it any more. It isnt on there web page any more.