jbooker82

I think I would rather have a con rod bend than break. There are plenty of guys running a stock welded crank with a cub cylinder with no issues.

I hated how a light weight flywheel launched. It would bog a lot easier compaired to stock. I didn't like duning with it let alone trail / woods riding.

Most deffinatly NOT. He wants to add weight not remove it. The ricky stator and rm stator flywheels are heavier than stock. I had one come appart and have herd of others doing the same. I wouldn't recomend running one.

My clearance issue was on the side of the impeller. Where the step scrapes the fluid off the out side of the impeller.

I have been running the direct drive New Die cast cover for 2 years now. No leaks. I did have to use a dremal to clean up around the water pump. I just cleaned up the casting so I wouldnt tear up my billit aluminum impeller. I could feel just a slight rub. I just left it that way the cover and impeller would wear in and make a real tight clearances. I havent had any leaking issues. I just PC'ed mine black.

I would say around 2 turns out. If your under 1 turn out you should go up a pilot jet size. If you over 3 turns out you should go down a pilot size. So the middle of the road is 2.

I don't think I would run any engine parts that were made by trinity.

I dont know probaly boarder line. I bought it when I was running a set of 66mm 4mill Stock cylinder drag ported by Dan Wade at Patriot Racing. Yea the clutch is harder to pull when your moving and the engine is reved. If your stopped then it is easier because I just run 6 factory yamaha springs. Just have a good lever and new motion pro terminator clutch cable. keep it lubed. I dont have any problems running mine. I do have a modded shift star, and shift pro kit. josh

It wont cause any running problems not running one. The coolant tank just keeps the radiator topped off. If it was designed just as simple catch can the hose would just hook on the top of the rez, not on the bottom.

Is it the a New Die Cast cover or is it a machined stock cover with an extended ring welded / expoxied on? I like mine. Just had to bend the rear brake lever a little. I am sure your's is a 12 bolt lexan. That is way better than the older 6 bolt. Don't use lock tight on the lexan bolts. The locktigh will cause the lexan to crack really bad.

Yep but if you had a coolant bottle it would pull in coolant instead of air when it cooled down. That heating and cooling cycle will keep the radiator topped off.

I run this water bottle bracket. It has a holder for 2 spark plugs as well. I also run the water bottle because the radiator does pull fluid back in. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=4&navTitle=Filters&webCatId=27&keyword=WATER+BOTTLE+BRACKET&prodFamilyId=9212

You can still slip the clutch. That is what that LH lever is for. It doesnt really pull much harder ethire. I trail ride and dune with a direct drive lockup with no over ride transmission. I run all 6 stock springs. It allows the clutch to slip out of the hole because the lockup isnt spinning. It doesnt spin with the engine, it spins with the transmission. So if your sitting stil it is not spinning.

Jeff at FAST. He is a buisy guy call and leave a message he will call you back. http://www.farmandsandtoys.com/home.html

The work "Kit" is used to sell parts to people that dont know any better. There is no kit out there. It is some one selling all parts need to build a 4 mill. You dont get 1 fancy box. It is just peiecd together. The sad part is that people buy the "kits off ebay" from not so great seller (dunetire, In2Glamis, also known as In Land ATV). They have been known to have a picture of a Hot Rods crank in there ebay auction and then send you a no name brand crank. These kits are usually sold on ebay for the same price you can get everything from Jeff at FAST. If you already have a cool head then you can run no spacer plate for the same price. So i guess the motto of the story is buy from some one that is reputable.

That is about right where mine runs. I shut mine down if it get 225 deg or so.I have my vapor set for the yellow light to come on at 220 and the red one to come on at 230. I have had it reach 243-245 once. I was riding with the wind and about the same speed so it was like 0 air flow over the rad. I look down and both lights were on. I just turned and pointed the radiator into the wind on top of a dune. I didn't shut it off just let it idle.

Are you 100% sure the water pump is in working order. Did you fire it up for a second with the water pump cover plate off? Your radiator can also get limed up with hard watter deposits. When mixing coolant I always use store bought distilled water, not tap water.

I bet that thing is hard on piston rings. If removing the intake bridge is the thing to do then why don't they do it on banshee cylinders? Probably because it is NOT the thing to do.

I don't think the charts are verry accurate for 4mill. I have a fast dune port with 19cc domes at 2,200 ft elevation. My banshee kicks around 185-190 psi. 19cc domes on a stock stroke will have less compression than on a 4mill. I would talk to who ported your cylinders. See what he recomends for domes to run straight race fuel. On race fuel you want to shoot for 185-190 psi of compression.

SuperSprox front sprocket. Dont run a $10 dollar crappy front sprocket. The front sprocket is what takes the most abuse. Buy a good one. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=124&navTitle=Drive&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=23006 Steel Primary Drive rear sprocket. You dont want an aluminum rear sprocket they wear out fast. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&webTypeId=124&navTitle=Drive&webCatId=9&prodFamilyId=2192 Deffinatly get a O ring chain. It keeps dirt out of the chain's rollers and pins. Gold RK GB520EXW chain. Strongest Tensile strenght and better o rings than an X ring chain. It also comes with a clip style master link. That is what you use to conect the ends of the chain together. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?&navType=type&priceRange=allPrices&navTitle=Drive&webTypeId=36&webCatId=9&brandId=allBrands&prodFamilyId=3591 josh

Acetone is good stuff. I use it to wipe down my pipes after washing / polishing. It gets rid of the greasy polish and finger prints. Keeps em looking clean. I usually have a gallon can on hand.

I start by using a power washer and dish soap. Then just keep rinsing them out until all the soap is gone. After they dry just give them a final rinse with a little acetone. The acetone will get rid of any oil that is left.

Tow strap wraped around the grab bar or front bumper. Get an ATV strap it is thin like a tie down srap only longer. It has a loop on each end and come with a small clevis.

You can run race fuel with stock banshee head / compression. It wont hurt anything but you wont see any performance gain. If your going to spend the cash to buy 110 octane fuel then why not buy smaller domes to make it worth it. Your just wasting your money buying 110 when you only need 91. So if you want to run 110 then buy smaller domes to reep the benifits of running race fuel.

Yep dont buy junk RM or Ricky stator. Like said above if you dont need a higher wattage then get an OEM Yamaha stator. I went through 3 rs and told them to keep the 4 and send me my money back. RM's stuff all looks to be copy cat or Ricky Stator. If you need a high out put stator then get the Ricks Motorsport electric's stator. Havent herd anything bad about them, but they cost about as much as a new yamaha one. I got a bran new OEM Yamaha one in the box that isnt for sale. That is my backup.