jbooker82

Conductor for Union Pacific Rail Road.

Acording to Ricky Stators page the stators fit 87-94 and 95-On https://www.rickystator.com/catalog/index.p...5ee12d8988fad8f

I run one on my banshee with a stock transmission. I dont have any shifting issues I put it on when I built my motor in my sig so I coudnt tell you if I really needed it. josh

If your going to run race fuel why not get a cool head and up the compression? That way you will benifet from running it. It will give you more midrange. josh

I would put the one on the radiator at the top twards the side that has the big radiator hose. The top of the radiator is going to give you the hotest temp.

You should be able to buy smaller intake boots with the same bolt pattern.

There is 3 sets of ported 4mill cylinders for sale in the for sale forum. 1 Fast dune play port top end. 1 Passion 12 port. 1 Patriot Racing Drag Ported cylinders.

I probably would have been done running them the first time they broke. Usually you get what you pay for. josh

Money is sent :biggrin: josh

Agressive dune port stock stroke PWK33's. Dont for get the Boss Racing intake so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch arm. I would also recomend a set of V Force 3's with Cascade's reed retainers. They make the reed cage match up pretty good to the big square opeaning of the boss intake. josh

I run the Iridium Plugs in mine. They seem to work good. If your jetting is off I would just run regular plugs until you get it fixed. Nothing like fouling 8 dollar plugs. josh

If they are to tight then when they heat up it can cause them to bind and catch a port wich will really mess things up.

Well go a head and ream them out. Then when you need new ball joints have fun trying to find a set of "LSR Old Style" ball joints.

It should just make a little stronger in the mid range. I dont know how much you will notice the gain since your already at +4

It gives it a stronger mid range punch. You wont notice any top end loss. Most people advance it to +4 because they are also running a cool head or shaved head to up the compression. 150 psi of compression and +4 timing is about the limit for Pump Fuel People running race fuel shoot for 180 psi of compression and +6-+7 deg of timing. Wich plate are you going to get. Cast Ricky stator plate for $35 or you can get a nice billit plate from Chariot Performance on ebay for 50. I would spend the extra cash and go for the billit plate. josh

If I was going to do a awesome trail machine I would do the 4 mill. It helps ad midrange torqe due to the extra stroke. I would do a hot trail port and ethire keep the stock carbs or go with dual PWK 28's. A 2:1 kills the top end. For exhaust I would talk to the guy doing the port job. He will know what works best with his port jobs. T5's would be a mid to top end pipe, CPI's are a top end pipe, and Paul Turner Mids are a great low end pipe. I woudlnt let your local guy do the port job by the what you said he says.

If your only doing one then a port job. A port job will give you more power than no port job and a 4 mill crank. Once you port your cylinders for the stock stroke you CANNOT have them reported for the 4 mill. So if your thinking of doing the 4 mill you should just save and do both.

I would say it looks good to me. The crank just has ball berrings, so it isnt like the crank is running on the journals in the cases.

No it has an internal battery too. It will actually run off the internal one but it wont have the back light or the waring lights. josh

I guess I will let you know now that it isnt the carb sync since he said he has a 2:1. :biggrin:

A good drain plug not only will have the magnet glued, but have it pressed in to a hole drilled in the plug. I have had a magnetic drain plug catch the clip and washer that holds the kick starter idler gear on. :thumbsup:

I would just mount it right here like you said. It just needs to be higher than the head and hooked in to the pressurized part of the cooling system. ( IE dont hook it in to the over flow line, or you will just pump all the antifreez out when it heats up.)

The Air Striker is just a version of the PWK. The A/S is supose to be less resistant to bogging in rough terrain, and have better throttle responce due to the fins that help guide air under the slide. What does the back side of your PD intakes look like. I would run the VF3's those holders are only a couple bucks for the pair. Another alternative to running the retainers is to dry mount everything up with the small round insert in. Then try to trace around the inside. Then take it appart and port the VF's stock reed retainers. They just snap right out. josh

I would say it wouldnt have to go directly to the top of the radiator. It just needs to be mounted higher than the head to allow traped air to escape.

The reed retainers are used when you have a billit intake that has a big square opeaing on the back side. The V force 3's have a small round hole that is matched to the stock intake boots. I would recomend getting the reed retainers and a Boss Racing intake. The intake has a built in crossover tube, and it also moves the carbs up and back so the LH carb doesnt hit on the clutch lever.