jbooker82

Shouldnt be a problem. I would just replace them 1 by 1 instead of taking all the stock nuts off at one time. josh

I would get a Noss Head Dual Tension Reeds for the stock cages Charriot Timing plate. josh

That is what I was thinking. :shoothead:

I got a used chapstick with no cap.

Sounds like you sent your cylinders to some one that really isn't familiar with the banshee. The length of the rod doesn't really have anything to do with how it is ported. Maybe he wants your whole engine so he can put the crank in and the cylinders on and use a deg wheel for the port job. I would just run regular wiseco pistons with a cut dome.

Try turing your air scews to 1 turn out and see if it starts easier or harder when warm.

You need to talk to theshee he can hook you up. Talk with him there are a couple people on here that have gotten paint through him and his bro. josh

Except with a Wicked polishing job.

If you get a good stock crank the berrings should be good. Just have it checked to make sure it is ture, then the builder will weld the crank pins so it cant seperate or get out of phase. If your dead set on a new crank it would be dumb not to do the 4 mill stroker. Your looking at $380 for a stock crank when you can get the stroker from FAST for $430 You dont have to get your cylinders ported right now for the stroker. Everybody says that it wont run to its FULL potential. Well a non ported stock stroke engine doesnt run at its FULL potential ethire. If your just wanting to get this thing running and want a new crank I would go with the following. 4mill long rod crank with extra weld Wiseco 795 series pistons (required for both stock stroke long rod, and 4mill long rod) Run the spacer plate between the cylinders and cases instead of cut stroker domes for a cool head. The only extra it will cost to build will be the little difference in price for the crank and the spacer plate. I just got a set of cylinders bored from FAST with 795 Series pistons, gaskets, and shipping for $320 So your looking pretty much at that price plus the cost of the crank and spacer plate. josh

Grips are like oil every one has there brand. I run OURY grips they are thick and super soft. They stick to your gloves like rubber cement. josh

It probably works off the same principle as Nology Hot wires. I run a nology coil and a set of hotwires. There are several people on here that run the nology setup. josh

You should try putting a raptor's thermostat in line, on your upper radiator hose. Since all you do is drag race it isnt like you have to worry about over heating. It should make your banshee come up to operating temp faster. josh

You need an Import cap. Import cars and atv's use the same size cap. Just make sure it is the correct psi cap.

I would say your pilots are plenty big. That is probably why it will start when the engine is cold. Then once you warm the engine up and you need to restart it is is way rich. A rich engine is hard to start when warm.

Sorry guys it went to 98. What I didnt like about it is I weigh 250. It did make it more snappy. It makes it come on the pipe a little snapper but it also falls off a little easier. So for me doing second gear launches I liked the feel of having a heavier flywheel. It just made it a little easier to not bog off the line. josh

I more or less sold mine so I could get a set of a arms that you didnt have to adjust the caster. That was reason #1. Then I just wanted a set that used ball joints. If I didnt have to set the caster on the asr's I would probably still have them. I still have there Hiem tie rods and they dont squeek. josh

The bad thing about modding a stock cover is the potential for leaks. They ether weld on or epoxy on an extension ring. Then the outer ring bolts to that. Direct Drives NEW cast cover has the extension just cast as part of the cover. It is also thicker around the kick starter for more support. It also gets rid of the vent under the water pump. 249 gets you a RAW cast cover, billit ring and lexan http://www.directdrivecnc.net/banqcm.html

I probably wouldn't run that flywheel. Some of the gouges go in to the inner ring where the magnets are. I would be afraid of the magnets being broken or loose. josh

I would buy one too. Make sure it is a bran new cast direct drive cover. They are better than the stock moddifed ones. They are nice because you can change a clutch out with out even pulling the side cover off.

TM Designworks is the only one to get.

I had some on my raptor and sold them. After 2 rides the Hiem joints creeked and popped. I would look for some thing that has ball joints and not hiem joints. I also didn't want to go through with setting up and adjusting the Caster (the leaning back of the spindle). I ended up going with a set of HD USA I shock A arms. They have a fixed upper A arm. You only have to adjust the Toe, and Camber, and they have real ball joints. I do still use the ASR Pro X series tie rods that have the Hiem joints. josh

for 430 you could have boughten a 4 mill long rod Hot Rods stroker crank from FAST. Is that a Long Rod crank or a regular rod length? The longer rod crank reduces the angel of the rod so it puts less stress on the piston skirts. You need Wiseco 795 series pistons for a long rod crank. I would also have it trued and welded. josh

There are 2 indentations where it looks like some one has used the wrong puller. It was from a previous owner, I haven't had any problems with this flywheel. I have had my banshee for 4 years. They look way worse in the picture than they really are. There are no loose or broken magnets. The flywheel was shaved by dave moore. http://www.davemooreracing.com/enter_page.html I asked him to take a look at the marks. I it checked out ok with him. He shaves them the right way. He mounts a crank shaft stub in the lathe and then mounts the flywheel to the stub, instead of just chucking the flywheel in the lathe.

I am wanting to swap a shaved oem flywheel for a non shaved oem. The flywheel was shaved by dave moore. I am a bigger guy and I like the feel of a non shaved flywheel better. Your flywheel must be OEM Yamaha. No Ricky Stator or any other "high output". The puller threads must be in good shape. The flywheel must not be bent, or look like it has been in the ocean for a 100 years. I just want to trade a good shaved flywheel for a good non shaved flywheel. josh

I would just go with the PWK33's.