jbooker82

IF your going to do +7mm crank you might as well do a +10 since you have to trench the cases either way.

Run a hose clear down the frame so you or your banshee doesn't get covered in fuel/oil.

It also depends on what sleeves you go with. I had a set of patriot racing cylinders resleeved with 66-68mm bore sleeves. They were not the huge ones where the lip of the sleeve goes clear in to the head bolts. They also didn't make the transfer ports any narrower because there was still aluminum against the new sleeves. Some of the larger big bore sleeves make the transfers narrower because they go in to them. I just ran blaster pistons, and big bore blaster piston domes on a 4mill long rod crank. I didn't have any sealing issues. I ended up selling them because the power delivery of a stock cylinder drag ported 4mill didn't go good with where I ride. I had Patriot Racing do the resleeve because they know their porting and would be best to match up the new sleeves to the cylinders.

If your considering sleeving one cylinder then I'd do both with big bore sleeves. Why not gain some cc's while your at it?

Liquid performance top kote

Well you could have a couple different options if your running larger 36-40mm carbs. One has a 70mm spacing and the other has a 75mm bolt spacing. The VM36-200k has a 70mm spacing and the VM38-200 have a 75mm spacing. VM34-200 for 30-35mm PWK's has a 60mm spacing. They are on page 225 in Sudco's online catalog.

I run Mikuni VM34-200 boots on my Boss intake with 33PWK's. I believe you need Mikuni VM36-200 if your running a 36-38mm carb. Ebay has both sizes for around $20 each and free shipping.

Its wet and will attract/retain dirt and sand.

I wouldn't run a mod quad thumb throttle cover. Let alone a lockup cover.

Id go T.M. Designworks. They use a plastic that is graphite impregnated so you don't need to grease them.

Taticool

What about a Ruger Mini 14 or 30? The threaded barel version is probably not legal but they do have non threaded versions. They look neat and are not the typical run of the mill AR that everybody has.

I have one.of these. http://www.ebay.com/itm/231018477698

Why not just buy a MityVac with a gauge and a few plugs from the hardware store. If you get the metal mityvac with gauge you will be able to do 30 inches of mercury vacuum, and 30psi pressure.

Alf44 lol.

It's actually a benifet to run no silencers. It makes for 0 air filter maintenance because the oil coming out of the pipes keeps the filters properly oiled.

Get a gauge that has the correct thread lenght and has the shrader valve in the verry tip. Any volume added before the shrader valve will be added volume to the combustion chamber.

No I have COD Ghosts, and Kill Zone Shadow Fall. I havent played COD much been playing Kill Zone. I had a couple of Battle Fields on PS3 and never had a COD game so I though I would try one out.

It will be fine. My PS4.has been flawless since it was released.

VHT Black Epoxy paint is pretty tough stuff. You can get in in gloss or flat / satin. If your not doing it in a heated shop I would wait until this spring or early summer before you do it though. Paint cures better when its not as cold.

I snoop done dyno testing where he put dual PWK28's against a 2:1 and the dual 28's had more power down low and more up top. When you run a big single to try to compensate for what you loose on the top end it cost you power down low.

Big difference in the top end you lose when you go to 2:1.

You need to get an oring kit from trinity because I don't think the cool head o ring kits work on theirs. Their domes go over / around the studs. If the head has been on there that long it could happen to have the regular o rings. I would probably pop the head off first and see.

Straight from ASV's site: Q- What is the difference between the F1, F3 and C6 series of ASV Quad levers? A- ASV offers three model choices in our unbreakable levers. Our newest levers, which we now call our “C6 Series” are CNC machined from 6061 Aluminum billet and carry a 6-year guarantee. Our C6 Levers have a completely new design that features “On The Fly” reach adjust! An industry first! No other off-road lever offers “On The Fly” reach adjustment via a wheel adjuster on both the clutch & brake lever. Now you can change how far your levers are from the grips anytime without tools! The levers are available in a matte finish, color anodized in Red, Blue, or Black with a laser engraved ASV logo and a new shape with a more comfortable and lighter feel. The C6 Series starts at $100.00 each. Our "F3 Series" levers are forged from 6061 aluminum, feature a forged blade that is similar in shape to a stock lever, carry a three year guarantee and are available in anodized colors with a laser engraved ASV logo. The F3 Series starts at $75.00 each. Our “F1 Series” levers are forged from 6061 Aluminum, have the same lever shape as the F3 Series, (similar shape as your stock levers) carry a 1-year guarantee and are our most affordable levers available starting at $50.00 each. Our new C6 and F3 models also offer a "Pro Model" Clutch Lever and Perch that features a Pro Perch with adjust on the fly cable adjuster and other features not found on standard models. All three models are available for four strokes with integrated hot start lever options. All three models have the same folding pivot design and adjustable reach, and use the same high quality components.

I would go get a couple stainless button head allen screws. Then cut it down a little at a time until you get the clutch lever reach you want with the bolt threaded al the way in.