csrmel

chains on banshees and similar motorcycle setups typically dont stretch unless thay are some made in china junk or you have a chain thats way to small for the torque of the gearbox. like using a size 420 chain on a cbr 900rr hahaha. what REALLY happens when a typical chain gets slack is the pins, bushings, rollers in the chain and to a lesser extent the sprockets physically WEAR DOWN. but no they dont stretch. maybe on a microscopic level they could stretch, but its not enough to ever require an adjustment. its just the chain wearing down.

you need to pull the intake and exhaust manifolds off and block those ports off with some homemade block off plates. then , doing 1 cylinder at a time, pull a vacuum of 5-10 inches of mercury on the sparkplug hole making sure the piston is all the way down. measure the vacuum with a gauge (can be any ammount) and come back in an hour and measure it again. if there is much of a vacuum drop then you need a rebuild. next put 5-10psi into the plug hole and measure it again in an hour to see if its still got 5-10 psi. if the pressure drop is much, you need a rebuild. this measures the crank seals for leakage on both the suction and compression portion of the sealing areas. sence it can leak during suction, compression, or both. do this for each side. its how to tell if youre crank seals (or base gaskets for that matter) are leaking. not to be rude, but this is what you should of done before tearing down the motor and rebuilding it.

theres nothing special about the limited edition except the extra price. white shows dirt better than black or blue. personally i would get the blue. actually, when i bought my new banshee a few months ago i did get the blue.

that is indeed what i was refering to. thanks for finding that link.

running a non resistor plug wont cause any problems with the cdi. its all about the frequency of interference, and cdi wont be effected. only things like radios, maybe cb's or something similar would be effected. i personally run a b8es, and also run at 25:1 mix ratio. i have yet to ever foul a plug. come to think of it, im still using the plugs which originally came with my banshee when i bought it new at the dealer. i even let my banshee idle for 2-4 mins with the choke pulled halfway out before each ride to warm it up. i will admit that i do keep 2 spare b8es's in my tool kit under the seat, just incase i ever do foul a plug, or meet someone on a trail who needs a plug. if youre jetting is correct and youre running a plug with the correct heat range for youre preticular setup, you shouldnt EVER foul a plug unless you let it idle for hours at a time, but on a banshee thats a nono. you should not ever idle a warmed up banshee for any length of time greater than a minute or so. these things have no radiator fans and when idling, you are getting NO air flow through the radiator, well unless its windy outside i guess. our quads just dont get enough use to actually wear out a spark plug. think about this, most cars go 30-100 thousand miles on the same plugs.

you really need a cooler, because things really heat up without insulation. i had a gallon water jug on the back of my shee and it was half way filled with ice, the other half water. after a few hours it was all hot. im thinkin about makin a front bumper/rack to hold a 6 pack cooler or a gallon of water so it wont get so hot.

turn you pilots in a little. i had the same problem on a brand new banshee. thrned out the factory didnt have the pilots quite right.

first thing to do is wash the bike down real good and generally just clean the thing up. then it would be to change the gearbox oil. while you are at it, pick up a magnetic drain plug. you can get one off ebay for around 8 dollars. next thing would be to pull the air filter out and inspect it. if its sufficently dirty then clean it with mild detergent, inspect it carefully for deterioration espically the foam sealing gasket. this tends to rip or get messed up causing air leaks. if the filter is ok then re oil and re install. it would also be a good idea to sync the carbs, lube all the cables, adjust the clutch, brakes, throttle, parking brake etc, lube and adjust the chain, etc. finally grease all of the suspension zerks. im sure theres more but thats all i can think of for now.

on the street with 20lbs of air in the tyres i was doing 87 next to my friends saab. you can probably only do 70-75 with stock tyre pressure though, as they have ALOT of tread squirm on pavement.

it isnt just the bottom of the filters which need support. they need to be kept from bouncing around side to side, or even upwards.

yes. most filter setups i have seen do not offer any support to the carbs and filters. this is a very stupid way to run a machine and is a good reason why so many people have pod filters falling off, messed up boots, etc. i have only seen one filter setup that has support brackets and it used a carbon fiber support bracket, but the setup is very expensive, around $150 before shipping.

if you ingested enough sand into the engine so that you lost compression, you can bet you have some light to moderate scoring on the crank and rod bearings, wrist pin, and the actual crank its self. i would split the cases and send the crank out to be examined, and go from there. i know it sucks, but doing it now is better than doing it later when a bearing falls apart and causes the rod to be blown out the case. have the cylinder miced as well. theres reasonable odds you have some cylinder scratching.

interesting responses guys. i have tallied up the results so far and made a upgrade list based upon youre responses. heres what i have so far. 15 people said exhaust 14 people said filter 9 people said tires 7 people said suspension 7 people said reeds 5 people said tors removal 4 people said adjustable timing plate 4 people said skid plates/nerf bars/crash bars 3 people said rejet (this is sort of redundant though, as you need to rejet after doing pretty much any engine mods.) 2 people said port work 1 person said upgrade water pump impeller 1 person said handlebars 1 person said lightweight flywheel 1 person said lighting upgrade 1 person said mill head/aftermarket head and a bunch of misc responses about cleaning up the bike by removing unnessassary things like the parking brake for example. lets keep the responses comming. the more people who reply, the better an overall sample i can pull to get a real top 5 upgrade list. thanks.

you cant just determine when to replace a worn tyre by its precent of tread loss. it depends on the perticular riders perfrernce. i have seen guys out on some trails with 90% worn tires and they are still going strong. other guys replace their tyres after every dozen tanks of gas. it just depends on youre perfreence and if youre tyre is still working OK for you. do youre stock tyres still do everything you want them to? if so, dont bother replacing them.

its ok. huevos series sort of lost its shock value after i watched 5 6 and 7 though. so watching huevos 8 , its just more of the same stuff. its still impressive, but the shock value of "WOW bla bla bla" is gone.

watch pikes peak and the whole scene is dominated by banshees. mx isnt what the banshee is made for.

what would be youre top 5 upgrades for a stock banshee. keep in mind that different people have different riding conditions, a duner would opt for some paddles and extended swing arm, a trail rider would not want paddles or extended swing arm. a dragracer wouldnt want the same things as a flat tracker, so please keep the recomendations very generic that can apply to most people.

i went with shell rotella 5w40 synthetic at walmart for 3 bucks a quart. diesel oils like rotella are quitable for wet clutches, it says so right on the back.

i appreciate all the responses.

cheap compression testers are just that. cheap. i have about 5 or so cheap ones sitting around here that are broken. anyone want 5 free compression testers? i also have an actron that seems to work good. it reads withgin 5 psi of my uncles 35 year old snap on compression tester.

just wondering if anyone has been to a dealer lately to see what a new banshee goes for? i bought mine last month. id like to see if i got a good deal or not..

i was unable to adjust the rear shock with a channel locks. i was able to adjust the preload with a chisel and hammer however at the incredibly slow rate it was going, it would have taken a good hour or more because there is no ROOM around the rear shock. i ended up taking the shock off and clamping it in a benchtop vise to adjust the spring preload. it only took about 15 minutes.

i notice the rear monoshock on my new banshee has adjustments for bound and rebound, as well as the usual spring adjustment. the front shocks only have spring adjustments. i was wondering if anyone had instructions or guidelines for setting this up for differing conditions. i fully realise that this is more of a rider preference as far as setup goes, however for a novice like me who has varying conditions of terrain, i would like to fool around with it and see if i can get a little less harsh ride while being able to run the rear tyres at slightly higher pressure to facilitate better low speed turning. for instance, some days i do techynical woods riding, mud pits, sand dunes, sand trails, or just dirt road riding. is there such a thing as a guidelines for setting up the stock shocks? how about guidelines for tyre pressures?

thanks for the reply. ill look into the tyres you suggested. i also like dry trails and infact most of my riding is on dry trails and such. but the mud and water is something that is a blast to do once in a while. sure sucks to clean the thing afterwards though. i think it took me 2 hours to clean it after my last romp in the mud. ill probably end up modding the motor for more power in a few years once it needs a rebuild. for now, im satisfied with its power. i can spin the stock tyres in 4th gear going 5 mph in the mud. thay have no traction at all in mud, water, sand, etc. its like riding on ice. its like cars you see drifting on tv. i can drift 40 foot wide circles because theres no traction.

i know the banshee isnt really suited to going through deep mud but there is alot of mud holes in my area that the local rednecks to go for a weekend of fun. they all run 4wd quads and also jacked up trucks and swamp buggies. and its a blast to skim around the shallow parts on the banshee really tearing it up. i cant go in the deep areas because i get stuck too easy, but problem is i got no traction! i have new stock dunlops on the rear and i never get traction in the mud. i realise these oem tyres are not suited to mud so i am looking to buy a new set of mud tyres and also wheels so i can quickly interchange them for different riding conditions. i was wondering what type of tyre would be good for going through ancle deep black mud. also i do alot of sugar sand riding and would like a tyre that would work ok in mud and also sand. i was thinking of some sort of paddle tyre, however im not sure on how many paddles i should get or exactly what type of tyre i should get. anyone have a suggestion to help me out? my banshee is 100% stock. i bought it less than a month ago. thanks.