LiftdT4R

Yeah, that's what I've heard, I'll listen for the pinging when I put it back together. The jetting is on spot, a little rich for the winter, I even bought the synch tool from Jeff, so both carbs match now. I got a degree key really cheap, so I stuck that in there, my other shee has the timing plate though. I probably won't do a milled head on my 02, btu the 01 will definately get it when it goes back together.

Ok, I had a +4 advance on my 2001 and I liked it, but I ride a lot of tight trails so I decided to try a +7 advance on my 2002 that I'm putting back together. I run Super now, it's like 93 or 94 octane. My 01 ran fine with a +4 advance, but I was wondering should I be expecting to use a higher octane now? I have FMF SSTs, with 280 mains, airbox with lid, and a lightened flywheel, compression is at like 125 each cylinder. I also want to eventually have my head milled too, should I use a higher octane then. I really want to stay on pup gas with this bike because it is mostly for trails and the pump gas is the most readily availible. Any info would be appreciate it, and I will listen for the pinging whenever I get it re-assembled as well. Thanks,

NYUK to the rescue! Thanks man for working with me on that axle stuff, Chase is a standup guy, and NYUK is right, occasionally shit just falls through the cracks, seems to happen a lot less with tracking info though. The insurance is BS anyway, I used to insure all my ebay sales and shit, and USPS will not refund you the full amount if it is lost, and to even get something isa a pain in the ass. You have to have documentation of what it was worth, and a printout of the e-bay auction is not proof to USPS. So no matter what the seller usually has to eat at least a portion of a lost item. It sucks big time, but I've had to do it a couple of times for shit I sold on e-bay that never got there. I kind of feel that it is the seller's responibilty to cover items that were never recieved, and then try to recoup that money from the shipper, it is what I have always heard referred to as the merchant's obligation. Now in the eyes of the law, I don't know how that works, but if it were me, and the buyer claimed they never recieved it, and I didn't have proof it was shipped for whatever reason, I would refund him. This guy does seem a little tough to me, maybe rightly so, But everyone on the board tells him your not going to rip him off, and he's still pretty irate. Don't worry about it bro, it will get squared away, I have an extra rear shock I'll send you, and chase can print up some stickers for me sometime, so my offer stands as well as the other members here.

I second that, had a rear skid from them on my 01, and that thing got beat to shit by rocks and never broke. Their bumpers are cool too, but not everyone seems to like the look.

You'll just have to keep an eye on the jetting. If you don't jet right for the winter you'll be running lean and the enginer won't be lubricated correctly. The Banshee is a different quad and feel then the Z, what kind of riding do you do? If you don't have the cash to mod the banshee, suspension, light motor mods, etc. keep the Z IMO.

Cool man, thanks, probably just stop by Sears on my way home. Always wanted to ask you, what's up with that pic in your sig? What the heck is that chick holding? Looks like broccoli or something.

Yeah, you were correct. I just ditched it, it's behind my shed for now. My buddy has a service station in norethern Jersey, so I might bring it up there. The sprocket hub is kinda messed up from beating on it with the hammer, and I'm pretty sure the bearings are shot. But it will be junk for now.

Are you sure??????? That would be nice, because I probably have a 1 1/4 socket. My dad has a whole slew of abnormally large standard sockets that he gave to me. Anyone else know what size the nut is? I'm gonna run after work today to Sears, and just pick up the right size socket. Thanks,

What's the best way to go about removing the front sprocket nut, I want to drop to a 13 tooth front sprocket, but I definately don't have a socket that fits the nut. You guys just use an adjustable wrench? Or does Yamaha make a special wrench for it? Thanks,

You ain't lyin'!!! I got a spare carrier, axle, and hubs off my 01, the one I took off is just goin' in the junk pile.

:beer: Nice dude, ever since I rolled mine, my subframe is even on both sides, don't think that's good, but it's stayin' that way. What kind of mark did the torxh leave on the frame, I know that cintzy powdercoat is like the easiest thing to fuck up. Nice work though man, lookin' good!

Most people do +4 on the timing, you shouldnt have to run race gas with that. Especially with your mods. I ran +4 with FMFs, and no lid on the airbox, and 320 main jets. Ran fine for over a year, no knocking. The reeds won;t add any horse, just better throttle response. As for the domes, I'm not sure, I never had a cool head, but I do remember posts about that, and if I remember correctly you can run about 21cc domes or so without leaving pump gas. To be on the safe side though, you need to do a compression check, I'm sketchy on this too, but I think if you go over 140PSI, you need race gas, not sure on the number though.

This isn't helping my morale. Thanks for the tips though, tried letting it soak in PB Blaster last night, and I'm gonna try to get it off when I get outta work today. Ifthat doesn;t work, I'll try some of the other suggestions. Thanks again, I'll let you know how it turns out,

Nah, just throw the old Carhart jacket over the line, I've seen quite a few trucks grills and windshields saved like that. Either that or buy sythetic.

how about this one "I caught a good one, it looked like it could run"

:ermm: Watch the temps on those bieks too, I had my Raptor out at Coral Pink a few years back, and it got way way way too hot riding razrs in the sand. Also, don't dump the clutch or you'll be digging it out. I didn't like the way the Raptor rode in the sand with knobbies, but I can't say I had a bad time.

:yelrotflmao: NO lie, my buddy was just over with his new 2500 Duramax, and that he wanted attach the comealong to the front recovery hooks and see if he could pull it off. I have the axle and carrier off, and I'm not worried about ruining the ale since it's bent, so I'm gonna let it sit tonight with the oil(thanks :beer: ), and see what happens, I think it's going to be equally as tough to remove the the carrier, but at least I can save myself a few $$$. Thanks again! :beer: :beer:

Yeah, I took the carrier off the swinger, and I think I'm just gonna junk it, pulled off the rtor and sprocket, but this fuckin' thing does not move! I beasted on this thing, PB blaster, oxy acetaline torch, and a full sledge, and no fuckin' dice, I gave up on trying to get the sprocket hub off, and just started punding the shit out of the axle on the left side to see if I couldn;t force everything through, no goddamn luck!

Had PB Blaster on there allready, didn't do a damn thing. I tried hitting the whole axle on the one side with a full size sledge, and nothing moves, dought this bike a couple months back, and it was never greased, I know the thing is frozen, but I'm just not sure what to do, think I'm just gonna junk the whole rear end.

Hey, what's up? I'm changing out ym back axle this afternoon, and I got the 2 50mm nuts, and hubs off. Everything except the sprocket hub. I know it's splined, and Clymer says it slides off, but I havent managed to be able to do that. I tried heating it up with my torch, also triedtapping around the edges with a hammer, and just good old fashinoed pulling on it. Can;t seem to work it loose, must be corroded. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,

Think I've seen you ask this question before. All the kickers I've ever seen vibrate, but there is an easy fix, http://modquad.com/store/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=KS-REPAIR So, buy his kicker, and spend the extra 9 so it doesnt vibrate.

Hmm, didn't catch that part, but it looks like your right. I just saw prodesign, and figured it was the adapter plate.

Damn bro, I was never able to beat a 250, and the 250s Ive ridden seem way faster.

Hey, at least he's honest about it. Probably runnin' too rich among other possible problems, I'd pick it up for $400.

The boost bottle does absolutely nothing, you don't need it, and I wouldn't get one, if you really want one, you can have one of the ones I have laying around, just pay for shipping. Also, the prodesign adapter makes it so that you can run the airbox without a lid. If you were to take the lid off your stock box, the airfilter would no longer be secured. So, that's the purpose of that.