LiftdT4R

Cool man, I'll definately take the degree key, the a-arm is the upper right if you were sitting on the quad. If you have one in decent shape in silver, if you could shoot me a price on that. I also forgot too, but I need the bottom piece to the kicker. In the microfiche, they call it the kick boss, its basically the lower part to the kicker on the outside f the bike, I lost mine for my 01, if you have both pieces to the kicker, I'll take them both, I know they are kinda useless seperate, and my dumb ass is the only one that looses shit like that. Thanks again, I'll wait to hear ack from you on the arm, and kicker before I send the loot.

Yeah, might be a little tough to ride like that. I know a lot of other people were wondering too about how well the 2 into 1s perform. I've heard a lot of mixed reviews, so keep us posted when you get it back together. Good luck on the rest ofyour work!

I just had my SSN stamped on my YZ80 frame because it had nothing, if it gets impounded and I can't get it abck, it's whatever cause it only cost me $300, I don;t really know if you allowed to do that or not, but I had a couple old school bikers tell me it's ok. Shit, 700 beer tickets is a lot for aframe,I bought a whole bike for 300 more.

Yo, Jeff, what up? I meant to ask you if you have an upper right a-arm, preferably silver to replace my bent shit, also, you know what degree that key is for? If it's +4 degrees, I'll take it. Bump for ya, :beer: Jeff is an awesome guy to deal with!

Bump for tonight, make me some offers, I'm very reasonable on price.

Sorry for the thread crapping, but Hitman, how is the low end with the 2 into 1, big difference, or not so much? I have been tossing around the idea of putting a 2 into 1 on for a while, but to be honest, I would only want it if it has a significant low end boost, I don't really care about being easier to tune, etc. etc. Thanks man!

don't know if you saw this thread or not, kinda recent, might help http://www.bansheehq.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67269

Thanks for the info DJack, it is definately 14mm, and it is definately the Yamaha style. Anyone know who has the best price on these guys, so far I've seen about $30 or so, which is fine, but if I can pick them up for even less, that would be awesome, I'm soo over budget on my 01 build it's not even funny, so every little bit helps. Thanks again!

bump bump bump, these will be on e-bay by the weekend unless sold

Hmmm, so the only difference for Yamaha ball joints is going to be the diameter of the stud(the threaded part), either 14mm or 16mm? If so, I have to double check on my shit, I could have sworn that the nut on there was 7/8", but I could be mistaken. Thanks for the info!

Are you re-jetting for the winter? I usually go up 1 jet size in October, and then another size in late November/December. Then in the spring I'll go down 2 jet sizes. Your porbably running it lean, not by much, but still, might be worth it too switch jets.

looks similar to the pic on their site, mine has a not on either side, but that should be simple enought o solve even if does'nt come with both. Does anyone know if the ball joints will all be pretty much universal? Can I use any other manufacturer's ball joint(for a Yamaha), or is each set of a-arms pretty much unique? I would ass-u-me that the diameter of the hole where the ball joint goes into is pretty much the same from a-arm to a-arm, but I don't know. Thanks for the info,

:beer: Thanks man, I keep changing my mind on what I want to do for my 01 buildup this winter, it's leaving me with lots of parts layin' around here. I'm also talking to my buddy who has a banshee roller he's trying to sell, so I can get my 02 back on the road, errr dirt. I bought s et of snow tires for it, and I'm damn sure not letting those go to waste.

Ok, if you don't allready have a Clymer shop manual, I suggest you get one, it shows you everything in great detail. I'll give you a quick run down, but it is not going to be anywhere as near as helpful as a Clymer. 1- Take off the seat, and silencers 2- Take out the airbox 3- Take out the carbs(unscrew the top caps first, and disconnect the fuel line, make sure the petcock is off) 4- There will be 8 allen head bolts that secure the intake boots to the reed cages to the jugs, take all of them out. 5- The reed cages will slide out, and now you should be able to see the reed petals, there are tiny screws that secure the reed petals to the cages, just remove those, and the petals should come off.(only do this if they are messed up and need to be replaced) 6- when you re-assmeble, I personally would buy 2 new reed gaskets, I know some poeple re-use them, but for $10, I'd rather not. Good luck bro, and like I said before, For $30, I would seriously get a Clymer, if your going to be doing any kind of work on your shee, itis a great idea!

hmmmmm, definately came off a set of banshee a-arms

Yeah, to be honest, I can start mine with my hand, or else, I will kick it, while I'm standing next to it, that way, you don't hit the nerfs. But, yeah, if I'm standing on it and kick it, it's kind of hard to stop it half way through the motion, so it usually bottoms out.

I had a stock length stem, and renthal banshee bend bars, and it would rub the tank. The banshee bend are higher then the CR bend, and a lot of other bars. I needed 1" bar risers to clear the tank, unless you have taller bars I don;t see how it would clear the tank. Sucks you had to pay full on that, they are nice tanks though, they are the best lookin' OS tanks out there IMO.

Hey, what's up? I was wondering if anyone could identify what brand balljoint is in the picture below. I need replacements so if anyone knows the best place to pick them up, that would be awesome. I think they are Lonestars. The bolt that goes into the a-arm is standard, NOT metric, 3/4 if I remember right(probably not). Thanks

Ok, I'll give you guys the first crack at this before e-bay, a whole bunch of stuff I had laying around. I'm not going to imbed the images because they are pretty dan big, but I have linked to them so feel free to take a look. PM me with any questions, I will take paypal or MO, paypal must be from a bank account(so I don't get hit with fees) If you PM me I will also give you my phone #, and home adress, I have dealt with people on here before, and have had no problems, but please feel free to ask any questions! So here goes: YFZ450 Shocks ON EBAY: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...518#description http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e130/JHupp06/yfzs2.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e130/JHupp06/yfzs1.jpg I bought these on planet sand, paid 275 shipped, and would like to get 275 shipped for them. I'm pretty firm on this. The guy I bought them from told me they were only run for a year. They seems pretty stiff, not loose at all. They do have minor wear on the springs, as you can see in the pics. Banshee Front Calipers http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e130/JHupp06/newcalip2.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e130/JHupp06/newcalip1.jpg Powdercoated front calipers for the Banshee. I was going to run these, but I got YFZ calipers instead. They were dissassembled before powdercoating(pistons removed, the whole nine yards). They were PCed professionally, and then re-assmebled. They work perfectly. In the pics, the side that you see when it is mounted is perfect, the other side has some out-gassing(bubbling in the PC). It was stripped and baked 3 times, and every time there was still outgassing, so we just left it. It does not affect anything, it is just an imperfection in the finish. You will need brake pads for these, but otherwise, they are ready to go. I paid $60 for the PC, so I would like to get at least that back on them. Toomey 2 into 1 Foam Filter http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e130/JHu.../P1010131-2.jpg Needs a good cleaning, and clamps to clamp it onto the carbs. If you have you still have your stock air box you can use the clamps that clamp the elbows to the carbs. Trying to get 20 shipped. I'll clean it for an extra 10, but I won't oil it (makes too much of a mess for shipping). Thanks for looking, and please don't hesitate to hit me up with any questions. Thanks again, EDIT: Almost forgot, I will take trades. I will take a partial trade for a milled head, rear skid(not stock), or a stock stem. Will trade shocks or FMFs for an extended steering stem or a stock or -1 roundhouse swinger. Thanks! Hit me up on AIM if you want to, my sn is PQJ.

got pics of the renthal bars?

For a sleeper, I'd go with black pipes, you can order most any pipe uncoated, and paint, PC it any color you want, black always looks stock, so you could get away a little there. Other then that, when you rev it, I think most people will be able to tell that it's been worked. I think building a sleeper is a little easier with cars where you can't see the engine.

I got mine on here, $100 shipped, and it was in damn good shape. I wouldnt pay the prices they are asking for them new. I love mine, and I can ride for a damn long times, but to be honest, $250 buys a lot of gas and Yamalube. Good luck bro, your gonna need bar riser or an extended stem too if you don't have them allready.

In case anyone was wondering, I had no freakin' clue that the carb bowls were different. I actually had in left side bowls for both carbs. I swapped in the right carb bowl, used the carb sych tool I got from Jeff, and this thing runs fuggin' amazing. After waiting about 15 min. for the oil to burn of there is an even amount of smoke on both sides, and I don;t think this thing has ever idled this perfect. Also swapped in some 270 jets up from the 260s since the weather is getting a little cooler, plus chops looks a little rich, but that will be good in the coming months. I have to give Jeff a FAST a bump, that carb sych tool is awesome, it makes setting the idle such a breeze. I thought I had them synched pretty good, but on the tool I was about 1 number away from being perfect. Thanks Jeff, you werent lyin' on the phone! Now if only I could get arund to fixing the stem, a-arms, and axle from my tumble a few weeks back.

If you do decide to part, lemme know, I live in NJ also, Piscataway, and I'll take some of that stuff off your hands, I really need plastics, if they are in OK shape, and I might be able to use the axle, and cool head. Hit me up on here if you decide to part it, I'll take a ride up and see what ya got,

Got a set allready. Thanks though man, that ceramic coat really does make them look god. Where did you get it done at? And I'm guessing it was about $100 or so a pipe? Thanks again,