Geoff

Mckenzie chrome does a good job at a really fair price imo. There in springfield,Or down next to eugene. 541-747-6148, i know Cam at Redline racing uses them along with some of the other guys down south.

Yeah I've been told most like around 175-185. I know some run up higher but I've heard of guys popping o-rings and getting into detonations problems.

I had a dune port with the 30mm carbs and when I ran here on the OR coast I was about the same on the main but ran a smaller pilot. Before I ever had the 30's(stockers) I would have damp plugs but it was because of to big a pilot. You might try to drop it down one size on the pilot and go to a 160 on the main and see how that works. Just throwing out ideas. What gearing are you running?

Bada450r, what bikes are in that pic in your sig? I love that pic

If I'm correct Firehead it's just north of the Parkway on Cherry Ave, but a few blocks south of Bi-Mart...if that helps yuh any?

I personally haven't been in there yet. I know they sell atv parts also besides tires. From what I've seen and heard though they will most likely be the best price around here and they carry triple buffs as well as the normal tire setups. If you google SMI motorsports you should be able to check out the website. Have fun spending money this weekend :biggrin:

Yep Firehead, and it's in Oregon City to. Regarding the paddles, the +4 is going to hold you back the most as far as racing goes. I would go with a 8 or 9 paddle hauler otherwise it will most likely be a handful.

It's the slide hanging up because of the moisture. My stock carbs did this numerous times out here on the Oregon coast when I would first start it either early in the morining or late at night. I'd take off and the throttle would hang wide open and i could bleep it and it would come back down. Once you got it warmed up it would go away. I tried oiling the throttle cable like everyone on here has recommended and I even bought a new throttle cable. I ended up buying some 30mm carbs with chromed D-slides and I've never had the problem again. the chrome slides don't hang up like the stockers do..very smooth. I'd be willing to bet this is the same problem you are having.

From the numbers I've seen around the net the 4mm DM's aren't 140hp...The 10mm's on alky are right there though. I know of a 4mm DM that was put in a drag chassis for a race that ran 3.78 if I remember right, but that is a 550cc bike so don't let the 4mm number fool yuh. The 10mm mini I talked about earlier, after thinking about it I think the final number was 132hp, but I wouldn't put my life on it,lol. I think I know of a 16mm DM that put out around 158hp but I heard it second hand not from the builder.

A buddy has a 4mm mini(75mm bore) that as far as I know Louie set up. It's in a lightened frame with a +10 arm and it will run with or beat the majority of 4mm cubs. I've watched it trade wins with a 10mm cub in a "drag" frame. If the builder know how to set them up I think they can run really well. He had a builder closer to his house trying to work on it and he finally went back to Louie after he burnt up 3 sets of pistons. If I remember right Cameron(redline racing) built a 10mm mini that went to California. When I saw it in his shop he was still tuning it but I think it ended up somewhere around 125hp and I think the TQ was in the 70's..... I don't remember exact numbers but they are not like the cubs were you can just bolt them on they do require alot of port work like has already been stated.

When I was running fmf's at sea level my bike had some port work done and I had 310/27.5/3rd clip and 2-2.5 turns out. That was without an airbox....it kinda sounds to me that your pilot is off also, mine used to foul plugs when I bought it since it had a 30 pilot in it. I changed it to a 27.5 and that fixed it.

Do you know what jets you have in your carbs now? I was looking at the post and I don't see were you ever said. I'm running a 158 and have had no problems, I ran a 160 also and there was no difference. I'm going to try a 48 or 50 and see what happens.

DGFUNNY70, Thanks for the info, Cam definately knows his stuff...quite unlike myself, so I was just being hard headed and thinking it may be me or something else. I'll go pickup some new pilots and give them a whirl, I'm positive it will fix it. dajogejr, yeah I know it gets you close....some have to fine tune it and some don't. It's funny that you said that about blowing it up cuz I was talking to him awhile back and he said something to the effect that he likes jetting lean so he always had to redo topends,lol. He's a great guy and will always get my business.

The needles in mine are N68a. dajogejr, from what I know the stumble most likely is from being rich....It's just that Cam@Redline who redid my port work and who I got the carbs thru said that 158/52 is usually pretty good for his setups. I think I'm just fighting it even though I know all motors are different. Should I try a 50 or go straight to a 48? Not trying to hijack since we have the same carbs I thought it would be ok.

I'm running 158/ 55/ 4th currently. I started 158/ 52/ 3rd and have been trying to get rid of a stumble when you stab it while cruising. I'm going to go back to the 3rd clip and try either a 50 or a 58. I haven't had to jet much so I'm playing the trial buy fire game,lol. I'm at sea level with aggressive dune port, CPI's,vf3's, 19's, +7.

If I was in your shoes(which I kinda am...the only 2-stroke) I would have a good builder do a nice aggressive dune port($100 per cylinder), new top end($150), 30mm carbs($275), adjustable timing plate($90), Noss head($210) if you already have a cool head 19 or 20($60), CPI's($550). I know that comes to 1600 something with the head. You could shave the head for dirt cheap and save a $150 if you still have the stocker. You would still need a swinger eventually. This is the setup I have and it's a pretty good runner, you'd be surprised. I'm just throwing out ideas for yuh, everyone else is so figured might as well.

This is what I have right now and I boiled them and stretched them on there...everytime is like the first time, wish woman were like this,lol.

I'm looking for a plain water pump cover thats polished with out the step that all the new ones have. If you got any ideas let me know.

In oregon/Wa we have really fine sand and it seems really hard to over paddle anything once it's modded. I run 22-11-8 9 pdl ext and alot of times I wish I had more. It's hard to guess on your gearing, 1 in front is equal to about 3 in back if I remember right. Some guys out here on there 4mil cubs are running 15/42 or 16/42..there around 100hp give or take. I would've gone with the 10pdl, the UL are just lighter and you'll get more wheel speed because of that. If you got them now who cares just re-gear it and do your best. good luck

I thought 14/41 is stock? If it is I'd drop a tooth in the front or I know alot of people go up to either a 43 or 45 and throw on some 21's or 22's. If you want a good all around tire(not that you asked) I'd go with 10x8 in the back cuz you'd have less tire roll while riding around and it would handle a little better. I know alot of people will say I'm done for saying a 10 inch but not everyone likes riding around on 22x11x8's....I for one don't mind but I have friends who bring 2 sets just for that reason, dragging & duning.

It doesn't sound like you want to try and fix them. From your pics(can't see really clear) it looks like it could be welded and resleeved and such and you'd be good to go and you'd still have your good port job. One of my cylinders had a big nick in the bottom of it were someone had done some previous port work and hit it and Cam at redline welded it up and resurfaced the bases and you can't even tell. If theres a will theres a way, it's amazing what some good machinists/welders can fix if you leave them alone and let them work there magic.

It could be possible that one of your pilot jets are plugged. You might want to take them back off and give them a really good cleaning. It doesn't take much to plug stuff up on these carbs it seems.

Are you using the choke to start it? you couldn't of done anything to really mess it up since you didn't do much at all. Sometimes it takes slightly longer to start after you have the bowls off since you have to refill them now, but other than that the only thing I'd maybe do is a 27.5 pilot instead. My shee ran better when I swithced to that from a 30.

Well I ended up just buying new ball joints from cascade that are chromed and everything went right together then like it should. I don't have any other experience with atv a-arms to have an idea of what the deal was. I know a few other people that have LSR and none of them had a problem that I know of. Thanks for the help though guys Geoff

Well the place I talked to is Cascade Innov. and they from my experiences are pretty straight shooters. I was told LSR are direct boltons and all 4 ball joints are the same. Which in my case the uppers are a 12mm bolt and the lowers are 10mm. My stockers all have 10mm bolts. So my new ball joints will be here tomorrow and maybe then I'll finally get to finish putting it together. Thanks you guys