Geoff

Be nice if some "new blood" showed up....unfortunately I'll be at Black butte since this race just got planned but I might get to show up monday.....Pretty nice pic you got there....who took it???

Carbs sold Intakes sold Painted fenders sold

When I had my 7mm I ran it first on gas with 35's and inframe CPI's. Also had a WCR override in it with a +10 and 12pdl haulers. This would've worked good but I got more into racing and just to much for our dunes IMO with all the razor backs and stuff we got. I ended up switching to 38mm mikuni's on alky with 14ext and it was a handful with that +10...really needed a longer arm. It will be alot of motor for a +6 IMO but some people are far better riders then others & can pull it off....I'm just not one of them,lol. If you set the carbs up correctly there should be no issue at all...All the single will do is choke it down and kill the power

Best bang for the buck is going to be the Cub like already said...you'll be able to move over alot of the parts you currently have but will want to step up to bigger carbs & different pipes. Like already said you'll want to go with an override also cuz once you put the lockup on the shifting kinda sucks because of all the pressure it applies....overrides can be duned you just have to clutch it alot & know what your doing. FYI a cub on alky will own you with that +8 if you put some decent tire on it. Good luck

Having a plug vibrate out is caused by detonation...so I would think it's lean on top. The oil coming out the pipes is probably because your running your premix rich. When I ran my bike on gas I used Amsoil Saber and ran it 100:1 and know of guys that ran it 120:1 on gas. It coats very well since it's seems to be a little thicker than the "normal" stuff out there. I would throw a 320 main jet in it with new plugs and see if that solves the laying over problem.

Come on guys/gals....if your interested in something I open to reasonable offers...Thanks

Chrome, I hate polishing...My bike is going back together with all parts either painted, chromed, anodized, or water transfer....I'm all about low maintenance this go around.

Don't have any asphalt experience but just remember going to short will slow you down also cuz of how hard you'll hit the bar when you launch....Personally I'd go longer before I'd go shorter. Stance of the bike also dictates weight transfer. If you have the bike raked down towards the front it will be harder to transfer compared to if the front is level with the rear for example...theres lots of variables and trial and error.

ttt, need stuff gone folks

If your starting from scratch I'd lean towards a 4dm....10mm cubs will run good but the dm will out perform it IMO as it should being it's almost 100cc's bigger. As far as setup if you don't want to cut extensively on the frame I'd get metal tech a-arms that are stock width & +3.5". Get a jj&a hillshooter axle & carrier and then run a +10-12 swingarm...Most will say thats to long but I ran a +10 with a 7mm cub and sometimes it would hammer the bar so I personally would lean towards a +12. If you want to start cutting then your imagination an obviously safety is the limit. This is +7.5" in the front & +16 in the rear...definately an extreme version of a stock frame

All requested pics have been sent

There at the shop so I can get you pics tomorrow(tuesday)....they would be $200 shipped...I will include any extra pedals I have also

Orginally they were supposed to be more blue to match the frame but the frame came back candy teal from PC so oh well.....You could always redo the frame to match?? , the chicks would dig it..haha

Sorry, thought I put a price....my bad. $500 shipped. Takes a big box to ship front, cover, & the rears. They are the only "wet look" paint job I've seen Lew do. No, they are used

I saw that...I must've been fixing it while you were replying

Lew jr painted fiberglass Fullbores with tank cover & UNPAINTED fiberglass rears. Come with polished billet grill. In great shape, have a small mark on the top inside edge were the clutch cable rubbed down to the primer. you can see the tank cover in this pic Stock tank with Modquad "Bio hazard" billet cap & dual outlet pingel- $130 shipped Stock chrome steering stem- $125 shipped Stock chrome foot pegs with chrome bolts(small crack in between slots on one peg & a small rub mark on RT side peg from kicker)- $60 shipped Ohlins polished rear shock with chrome spring and compression & rebound adjustable....setup for #175 & +6 swinger- $350 shipped (Can get pics of the stuff below if needed, just don't have any on my phone or computer) Stock chrome shifter- $30 shipped Mikuni 38mm alky carbs w/billet bowls & throttle cable, setup by WK Racing & ran on my 7mm cub- $425 shipped VF3 reeds- $200 shipped WK Racing billet intakes (old style w/hose for crossover)- $40 shipped

There is 300ft racing(dirt pretty much) in Longview I think, but they cater to the cars from what i've been told. My buddies went up there 2 years ago and they had to dig out for the wheelie bar wheel so the tires would touch the ground. There track maintenance left something to be desired. Most everyone who is serious about 300ft racing comes down to Albany, Or. If you google albanyMx and go under sand drag on there site if gives a list of there schedule.

ttt

One of a kind Ohlins shocks with chrome springs and polished bodies, not another set like them. $650 for the front, $450 for the rear OR $1000 for the full set. Also brand new Galfer front brake line thats single from the bars to a "T". $80 Fiberglass rear fender, never used. Unfinished, need painted $100 email me at [email protected] Oh, forgot.....except paypal and money order but won't ship until I recieve money order. Thanks Geoff

I've got a 7mil on gas with 35's with some port work and mine loves fuel. I running a 50 pilot, CGL on the 2nd clip and 170 mains. I originally had it jetted 162/50/ middle clip which was fine for my heat cycles but once I got it to the hill it ate up the left side piston in 3 passes and my plugs were rrreeeaaallly clean. By the way I'm at sea level and about 60 for temp. Also forgot to say I'm running 18cc domes, +7, with CPI inframes.

Yeah it's on 217 acrossed from Washington square. Yeah the other piston looked good, but I can't say the same for the left side. I'm thankful for Muric(sp?) acid, it made everything well again..atleast as far as the cylinder was concerned. Maybe a batch of pistons was conspiring to try and ruin all of ours weekend,lol?

I bet Lamphere's in Beaverton still has some also. They had alot on hand last time I was in there. Firehead, first time out I made 3 passes and tore up a piston. I took it apart and sealed everything this time to make sure. I think it was lean but i wasn't risking it. Will have to meet up for a day trip to SL or something sometime down the road.

Sounds like you guys had a good time. We hit up Florence and there was a bunch of racing and a decent amount of people but not to bad....only saw the cops once on there quads. Got to finally race my bike since I rebuilt it and i came back with pistons still in one piece so I guess I'd consider this past weekend a success,lol. Firehead, did you run the white bike at all or leave it at home?

yes they do require a decent amount of porting because if I'm correct there the same cast as the cub just a 72mm bore with the studs moved out. So all the port and transfer timings need to be re-adjusted. My buddy runs one here in Oregon built by WK and it runs 3.8 all day on a 3-4 year old chassis. I know of only 1-2 4mil cubs out here that run high 3.9's so the track out here maybe a little slow compared to some others. They do cost more since nothing interchanges from a stocker or a normal cub so thats kinda a turn off.

That sucks to hear. I have a few buddies down that way and they have spent alot of $$$$ at Mck and no problems...maybe it's like you said though they have a personal relationship, same with Cam @ Redline.