Snopczynski

Its hard to explain this.... The fmf will pull higher rpm than the pc's. The pc's will make more midrange. The pc's will tapout about 8700-9000 rpm, but will make more hp at that rpm than the fmf's in all my experiences. I would run the pc's over fatties on a low-mid setup like you have. You probably won't notice much difference in the topend.

I did do some dyno runs with custom curves I made. That curve at +4 made the most sensible hp and torque on my motor.

Is the tailight working?

The fatties should redline higher than the pro circuits. The pro circuits will make more torque through the midrange though. Keep the pwk's, or trade in for some 28mm's if you want more midrange pull. Stock carbs wont benefit that motor at all.

warm it up , then kick it 11-15 times. Should stop going up, and should have the correct reading. Your motor should top out around 10,000 rpm with t5's on it and a low exhaust port. A 245 main jet is 9 full sizes above where I put that ported stock cylinder 4mill with the pwk 35. Thats like the difference between running twin 35mm pwk and a single on a banshee. Seems very unlikely you would need a mainjet that big.

Try curve 3. Its the advance sheet for a dyna.

USE THE SEARCH! TURN OFF THE CAPS LOCK!

The guy who sold them to you does not know stock carbs are 26mm. He says in the add he eliminated the tors and took them off the 1997 model year bike. So that tells me they are stock and he doesn't know they are 26mm. The seller just doesn't know his ass from a hole in his face. He also had a 2001 key switch listed and said it fits 87-06 models, which it wont because the connectors are different on some years. Same thing with a pair of headlights he had listed, certain years of those had different connectors as well. Hell, my boss has owned banshees for 15 years now, and up until I had to correct him about 10 times a year ago he though they came with 28mm carbs too. He even tried to fight with me over it, the nerve.

If you run a 200w-250w stator, you can only run about 125w or 150w in lights. Anymore than that and they will be too dim unless the bike is revved up all the way towards max rpm. Do some searches on here and gain some knowledge. It doesn't seem like you know what you want to do yet, so I would not rush into a decision if I were you. It takes some time to do a dc conversion, make it look nice, and get everything in there safe and secure. Its not a job you want to rush.

got a url link to the auction?

Im betting you did something wrong or the gauge is messed up. Very suspect that both cylinders read the same psi that low.

With pro circuit pipes and an agressive trail port........Yeah! If your gonna run powervalves I would run twin carbs. Your gonna have plenty of bottom end already.

Ok first, I need to know what pipes your running so I know where your pull should end. 2nd, your carb is too big for your setup. All your jets numbers and needle are way too big. I did a single on a JSD 4 mill with stock cylinders, pt mids, and vforce reeds at a 35mm pwk, eej needle, 200 main jet, and 45 pilot jet. That bike would try and rip your arms out of the sockets. I am a little confused as to why you have all this mid-top stuff done with a 2 into 1 carb on it? 3rd, you may have an electrical issue like a pickup problem, melted harness, or cracked flywheel magnets. Dome size is null because your domes were machined. You are not running high enough octane for 175 psi compression though. You need to be at 100 octane or more. Black smoke is a seen of the bike running rich.

We have run 36 and 38mm lectrons on single intakes. From your mods, your not going to need anything bigger than a 35mm though.

You dont need a high output stator if you run a battery. You will need a good reg/rectifier. There is no need to run a battery if you dont convert to hid's. You should keep the bike hooked to a battery tender when its in storage.

Does the inside of the carb neck look like its been ground on?

Approximate Cranking Compression These pressures are estimates based on fresh stock bore, piston, porting, and deck height. It is recommended to check your compression after installation. Sea Level 1000' 2000' 3000' 4000' 5000' 18cc 197 178 171 170 165 145 19cc 183 167 160 158 152 137 20cc 169 156 149 146 140 129 21cc 156 145 138 134 128 121 stck 130 125 118 112 106 100

If you have the old school fmf gold series, its going to be identical with the T5 power wise, it just may have slightly more midrange power. Your going in the wrong direction to find the right pipe for what your explaining you do. low-mid pipes are the fmf gnarly, pro circuits, pt mids, etc.... Not cpi, shearer, T5, fmf gold series, fmf fatty, fmf sst, etc...... All this info is available on the search, and again, I would not base anything on how a pipe sounds.

use the search.

Clutch basket, clutch disengagment adjuster, clutch, stock rod angle, stock pistons.

Why did you start another thread on this? We explained exactly how to do it in the thread you had going yesterday.

Seriously??? We would need to know rod length, stroke, base gasket thickness, piston size (795m, blaster), etc...... Mapping a motor cant be done just over a couple forum posts on the internet. Even pipes, carbs, transfer port width, height, and how much you dig out of the transfer tunnels can be affected by your setup and what you want to do. Are you porting this yourself?

Typically you want to try and match exhaust duration and transfer duration so they optimize output at the same rpm. This number is going to be affected by a few things. So what you asked is sort of a broad question.

You have a wide range of pipes listed. You have low-mid pipes, top end pipes, and fmf could be low-mid, mid, or mid-top depending what pipe you get. So your gonna need to clarify what your riding style and current mods are. I would not EVER pick a pipe based on how it sounds.

I have seen that happen 2 times on a banshee.