Snopczynski

NO!

I am looking for some un-ported stock Banshee cylinders. I need them to be near stock bore also.

sounds like someone dropped a vent hose in there. Only thing in the tank is two white scrren type filters that come off the bike of the fuel valve.

Check the item pics off Ricky's Site. Ricky A-arm link

This is a typical newbie question. The thing you need to understand is, you can build one or the other. You cant build a drag bike for trails, and vice versa. My bike beats most four strokes that have pipe kits and even big bores (in a drag race at the dunes), but there are four strokes out there that are faster than my bike. My bike is ported and has most of the basic bolt ons on it also.

no problem. :biggrin:

Correction, the stock regulator specs are 11.2-11.6v! (too many beers yesterday). I do run Ricky Stator stuff, as everyone runs away from it, I figure it out even more, and buy some more of his stuff. I bought a RS stator in 2001, and then again about 4 months ago I bought a stator and flywheel for my new bike. My cousin has one, my other cousin who melted his harness has one also. My best friend and his dad have them also. I just bought one of his regulators also, they limit voltage at a higher limit, and are safe up to 225 watts, so my lights run a little brighter with it. (I dont have a DC Conversion on this bike I currently ride). The RS stators melt the harness with a bad stock regulator because the extra juice that it produces puts alot more current through the harness thus heating it up and melting the insualtion off the wiring. The Battery I have in the Shop with the under seat box I fabbed up is a Odyssey PC680 Odyssey PC680 Link This little bugger has some serious juice in it. The stock stator doesn't charge really anything well in a DC Conversion, there simply just isn't enough output from it to maintain a battery all that well. Thats why most fourstrokes with Batteries use a 3 phase stator. I have had mr16 hids on my Rhino, and I have had vision-x h4 conversion hids. Anything you buy from vision-x in an hid is going to be a solid component wth a good warranty. The mr16's can have issues firing up and keeping both on once ignited sometimes. You just turn them off and back on if one doesn't light off though. The output from them is pretty good though. Nick the owner of Vision-x is a friend of mine, his shop is based about 12 miles from my house.

If the stator wiring physically melts, its not the stators fault. 9 out of 10 cases I have seen were faulty stock regulators. I saw one do it on memorial day weekend. We put it back together and replaced all the wiring in the parking lot at the dunes. I tested the regulator and the thing was running at 10.25v, and the harness was getting hot again. The stock regulators dont gegulate at 9v, they are supposed to regulate at 11.6-12.0v, so if you got one that low, its a malfunctioning unit. I dont have any issues with dc conversions, I haven't had any posts on problems with them. Most of the time I am trying to help other people to get them to work. I will type more at about 10:30, I got to get to work.

A 38mm carb is way too big, I dont know if you noticed, but I am the 2 into 1 king on this board. I got the pipe and the carb. I have seen a 4 mill with a 38mm lectron run way better when a 36mm lectron was put on the same bike. I know of another 4 mill that runs the 35mm pwk and it hauls ass. I do have a buddy with a 6 mill cub motor and a 38mm lectron that does run well though.

I can hook you up with a battery, battery mount, reg/rec and some guidance that will work. I would suggest upgrading the stator just to make sure the battery gets a little more charge though. What about a moose or electrix stator? The battery I have here at the house is a monster and the mr16's hooked to it with a good at least 150-200w stator on the bike should run the lights for a very long time at night and even be ok with the bike off and lights on for a long while. I have an odyssey battery here, a mount I made, and I can get you a sled reg/rec that I use from a sled company out of Wisconsin. I have floated a ground and done all that Jazz on my bike, it works just fine. You dont really have to upgrade tha harness wiring all that much if you run mr16's. They only draw about 2.9 amps a piece once fired up on the bike. That amp draw is about the same as the stock 35w halogen lights. They just do a brief warm up at 12-15 amps for about 1-2 seconds.

38mm is too big unless you have a stroked cub motor. For stock cylinder and stock to 4mm stroke with port or no port run a 35mm pwk.

Depends on what size carb and which 2 into 1 intake you run.

I would verify you are coming from an area that is sea level before completely deciding your not going to rejet. The air out at the coast is more humid,dense and cold than inland air also. This can play a factor in your jetting.

What city in BC are you in.

I wouldn't run anything under 100 octane with that kind of compression.

Personally I wouldn't let Trinity racing touch my motor with a 10 foot pole. If you want a good mx or low-top port job to accentuate a good set (or a single pipe) of pipes and that intake, then talk to Dynoport or Patriot Racing.

What octane fuel you running in that bike?

Its the small film covering off your steel headgasket.

Your gonna need to change jets. Are the trails muddy, rutted, and rocky?

what ever floats your boat. Still wouldn't grind the friction material off my clutch packs. Banshees will smoke the packs even with all the material on them. It is a normal conditon, the oil runs off the packs and the bike will move till all of the oil is bathed back on them. What you gonna try to tell us next, a manual transmission on a John Deere Gator that shifts harsh in the cold until warmed needs to have the shifter ported! I may not be a proffesional bike, sled and watercraft technician anymore, but I hold a few factory certifications still and have quite a few ASE certifications(Well all of them), and factory Automotive certifications for two European car manufacturers. So I guess you might want to check before you shoot your mouth off next time. Not to mention this information is based off the fact that I know of 8 banshees that do the same thing he asked us about. Dont be a pud! xoxoxo Snopczynski :kiss:

I would run a pure sport realtor. Its a bit heavy, but they take abuse well and hook up awesome in sand, dirt, and mud.

Thats not a great trail tire, its a good dirt tire though. Thats very small also. I would put like a 14/45 or 46 on a trail bike with that sized tire. A 28 mm carb is way too small. You need at least a 33mm carb on it. I would not use a pj either, gt a pwk for it, the pj's are very touchy. I thought they didn't make a 28mm pj? I would recommend like a 35mm pwk on it. What kind of trails you riding?

What pipes, what carb, what tires, and what size tires? Do you know what jets are in the carb?

Rounded edges are supposed to face out. Its sounds like you have entirely too much gearing and tire size rolled up in this thing. I have a hard time believing that you can pull full rpm in 6th gear with that kind of gearing. I would personally on that machine run something along the lines of 14/46 with a 22" tire.

Nobody elses rear wheel dyno is accurate either, unless its a crank dyno its not an accurate number. Dynojet released information that their correction factors skew hp numbers from 15-20% off the actual numbers. I dont know what size a pro wedge 2 is, so your gonna need to tell me.