Snopczynski

I am working on my buddies bike and the problem with it is when your under load like drag racing and go to shift from 2nd to 3rd the bike will not go into 3rd gear until you completely let off the gas and clutch it. The shifter feels real funny when your trying to shift also. It feels like there is no detent to it just on the 2-3 shift. My motor guy said it probably needed both 3rd gears and a shift fork. The bike is an 1987 402cc JSD 4mill Stroker. Bike has a new clutch, springs, and good maxima trans oil in it.

What size domes do you currently run in the cool head? What would you want the bike to do better power wise?

Isn't there a bunch of pics about 3 posts up?

Wow, nice hole. :biggrin:

My votes on the cross over tube.

Ditto, near stock motor would benefit more from 100 octane if any race fuel is used at all.

Click on the different links at the bottom of the page, he talks all about it. Porting Link

The guy said its been bored over once. To me that tells me its more than likely recently been rebuilt, or he knows the condition the top end is in and doesn't seem too concerned about it. I am more apt to guess he doesn't know how to properly check compression, or he has a shitty compression tester.

No, you need to diagnose this issue and putting (2) 100 watt bulbs on it will not fix it. You'll fry the harness by doing that. You need to go to walmart or radioshack and get yourself a digital multi meter that measures dc, ac, ohms, and amps. Then come back here and I will tell you how to check the bikes stator and wiring circuit as well as the regulator. Soldered what wire to the yellow stator wire?

This belongs in the online auction watch area.

Fuel in a sealed metal container is good for about 3 months or so for sure. I have even used it after it has sat all winter. I would assume this has been mixed and in a race jug if your asking about 927 at the same time?

I would check the pickup coil gap. Also if you smacked or dropped the flywheel at all while replacing it, it ccan crack the magnets inside the flyhweel and cause the bike to run poorly.

fuel about 4-6 weeks in a sealed plastic container. I have ran the oil up to the same time on 927.

More compression, advance the timing.

Yeah we run Maxima MTL 85w trans endurance fluid and change it every 2 rides.

You can run another stock clutch as long as you upgrade the springs. If you didn't break a plate or a fiber before, you will be ok with stock stuff and beefed up springs.

I recommend a flat slide with it like the pwk 35, or a mikuni tm or tmx.

I hope you got the Ronco juicer with it.

you need everything connected, and make sure your slides are down all the way. Your basically answering your own question here. Make sure the slides are in the right carb and the right way. Make sure the throttle cable is not pulled out of a carb top or the throttle at all.

Nope, that link he posted is definitely not beverly. Its the spot a little south down the river thats laid up on the hill. There are not any hills at beverly that look like the ones in the pics. Theres a picture of a dam and a rail road bridge in front of that. The Beverly turn off is at the rail road bridge.

Not everyone. If you want twin pipes I suggest the fmf gold series if you can find some.

Your gonna want to call K&T and ask them what they recommend for carbs and pipes with their port jobs. Thats what I would do, they do some of the fastest stuff out there.

Firehead, total height on the cap with the sensing bulb or just the outside area?

We welded on my old drag bike and my cousins without doing anything and it was ok afterward. I would probably disconnect the cdi and go for it.

is "The Crack" dusty like Beverly? Is it a bigger riding area than Beverly? Are there any good hills?