Snopczynski

eek needle, 48 pilot, 2 turns out air screw, 185 main jet. Start in the middle clip on the needle and adjust as necessary.

38mm lectron is too big for your setup. Get the pwk 35.

Thanks, but mine got here already, do I checked them myself. Sorry!

The air stryker has a power jet like a lectron. If you ride trails and plan on ever doing port work then get a 35mm pwk. If not going to do future port work, do the 33mm pwk.

I will be putting it on with the 2 into 1 intake. I just wanted to get an idea of what the inlet hole is like. How do the reed petals attach to the cage? What type of material is the cage made of? You guys ever seen these cascade reed stuffer plates?

Well if he just listed a frame, then apparently he has been around and on here.

Ok guys. I am thinking about selling the ported and hogged out stock cages with the carbon tech low-mid reeds to get v force 3 cages. I need to know a few things. One, is it standard for them to come with stuffers that go inside the bottom of the cage. Is the inlet in the back round or Square? How well do the stock intakes match up with the hole in the back of these things? Anyone got pics of this setup with a 2 into 1 intake manifold?

1.7 qts to start, run it 5 minutes then recheck it. Do not screw the dipstick all the way in when checking it.

To clarify for all on this. A stroker crank and pistons is not a drop in deal. You will either need machinework to the head, or domes, and stroker port work done to the cylinders for the bike to run right. It cant be joe bob in the back of the parts plus doing the machine work either. You need someone experienced with the stroker crank, pistons, gaskets, and cool head you are using.

The guy that pm'ed him, block him from his pm's! So, there was no other way to tell him he was a douche except this way.

Dont know him. Did you buy it here or on ebay?

somebody send him a question about the plug installed depth and see what he says.

It takes me like 1.5 fuckin hours to set toe on my banshee. Its a pain in the ass to get the bars straight with the tie downs, then measure to the same place at the center of each tire front and back. Just when I start getting somewhere, something always happens and moves the bars or something stupid. I am about ready to fabricate a set of fixtures bolt on the hubs for setting toe, then it will be way easy to do.

It ought to make a little more low end because of the velocity, but may choke off the top end a tiny bit. We had a 38mm lectron on a woods ported 4mill and it didn't have as good acceleration as the 36mm lectron we ended up going with on it.

33 if he is gonna kick around on the trails and maybe occasionally hit the sand. 35mm if he ever plans on upgrading anything, then he will already have the carb. Try to stick with the pwk, tm, or tmx carbs. Dont use a PJ.

I run it at +6

I would call the tech dept and ask them.

Dont run the key, it will break and leave you stranded. Get a timing advance plate.

This is what is done to my bike, and it makes a ton of torque and mid power. Pro circuit pipes Dynoport Port job.(yes dynoport does port work for the 2 into 1 pipe). 2 into 1 trinity intake with 35mm pwk and K&N pod filter (you may want to run an airbox though) Stock reed cages with carbon tech low-mid reeds. Flywheel lightened. (rs heavier magnet flywheel). Cascade Heavy duty clutch kit. +6 timing advanced. Pro design head with 19cc domes on 100 octane 50/50 race & pump gas(169 psi comp). 13/46 gearing. Wiseco Pro lite pistons. Its a real strong running bike, amazes a lot of people, and its easy to keep on the pipe at slow speeds.

I might bug her about it again. Its been almost 8 months since I talked to her about it last time. She is supposed to give me and my best friend a call when she starts selling stuff though.

Well, I would suppose the pvl could give you a little more of an edge then. Whats the deal with the msd setup? I saw those on the market a few years back.

You know these are good questions. The only insight I can provide on this is the following. The load thing, there is a charge created by the flywheel spinning its magnets past the stator coils. When you turn on the lights on a bike with a rs stator and flywheel (what I have on mine), the rpms will drop down a little. One would assume a stator with lighter wound coils would make less of a load when the lower wattage lights are turned on. The rs flywheel creates more voltage at a lower rpm, it does work. Its just a heavier magnet that allows the lights to be a little brighter lower down in the rpm range. Blowit can probably answer the load/hp question a little better. I know in cars that it typically takes more hp to create more charge because of what the system is drawing and what it takes to create the field charge in the alternator. So I would assume the same is true on a banshee. Things that could alleviate the load though are capacitors or a battery I would think.

Unless your doing a full on drag bike, and don't need lights. The general consensus on the pvl is usually its more pain than its worth. Its not as much of a bitch as a motoplat though. The big gain is the acceleration from the tiny little flywheel. I dont know if you double kick a pvl if it will start the engine backwards. The motoplats will do that though, they kick the starter gear right out of the case. Good guys to talk about ignitions are dennis packard and dave moore. Dave moore wont sell you one unless he does your whole setup though.

Back in the early 90's before wiseco made the pro lite series pistons for the Banshee. JD Racing was doing a super lite cnc'ed piston. They finally got it down to a science after about 10 sets of broken skirts.

ok, heres what to do to see if you have a bad head gasket leak. Let the bike get cold and pull the radiator cap, then put it back on. Start the bike and let it run about 30 seconds then shut it off. Pull the cap and see if it hisses like there is pressure in the system. If there is, then you may be looking at a leaky head gasket. I had the same exact problem on one this last weekend. To verify it, I rolled the motor over to tdc and held the flywheel with the special motion pro pliers. Then I charged the cylinder with compressed air from my blow gun. I got bubbles in the radiator with the cap off. Other signs can be discolored coolant, or smoke coming from the radiator. Check this stuff then report back.