Snopczynski

so woods then??? I would say T5 if you want a mid-top pipe, or pro circuits for a bottom-mid pipe. The dynoport is a decent mx style pipe for that also.

When I originally drained my stuff out of my rhino and my banshee, it looked like coolanol to me. Its not even the long term effect on a car. Manufacturers who were having issues at 15k, 20k, 30k went to the 100k pink and orange coolant to get rid of split hoses, bad water pump bearings, and leaking water pump seals. If you guys want to run antifreeze, then do it. I dont give a shit. But if someone asks what I recommend, I say coolanol, or water wetter with just water. The majority of hose failures these days is from petroleum based products getting on the hoses and causing swelling or splitting failures.

Repack the silencer.

stock bulb is a h6m, piaa is the only one I have seen who offers a super white h6m for the Banshee.

I am a Saab Technician for a living, and I was an Audi Tech for 7 years. I am also a Master ASE certified technician. So I have one key point here to shine some light on. How many new cars do you see with green antifreeze in them? I haven't worked on a car in a couple years that has had green ethylene glycol in it. All the cars I work on have orange and pink silicate free ethylene glycol in them. Ethylene glycol is basically an antifreeze compund. Silicate free and low silicate ethylene glycol is an antifreeze compund, a moisturizer, and a lubricant. It is easier on cooling system metal, plastic, and rubber compounds. You want a silicate free or low silicate coolant in your bike to keep down on cooling system wear. Usually the rubber hoses in a cooling system will begin to detoriate after a while with regular antifreeze. I have only replaced one saab or Audi hose in 8 years from a coolant related detoriation issue.

go to www.utilityoffroad.com and look around in the forums. I used to own a Rhino 660, it was built with custom skat trak paddles, I personally would buy the Rhino 700 if I get another UTV. The Rhino 700 is not out yet, so no one is gonna know how better or worse they are than the 660. From what I read there are over 32 improvements to the Rhino 700, so I think it would be my choice.

If your at sea level I would run 19cc domes. Get rid of the x-factor boost bottle.

I usually use coolanol in the banshee. I dont use automotive coolant, its hard on the rubber stuff in the cooling system.

I ran them on my old Quadracer and it did not seem to make much difference. The banshee carbs definitely have a bad fuel slosh and bog problem on whoops with the stock carbs though.

yes, the 6 spoke banshee sprocket hub is the same as the blaster 6 spoke sprocket hub.

1 million hp

Well pull the carbs off and clean them. More than likely its a crankseal, but your gonna need to tell. It smells slightly different, and usually looks slightly different than 2 stroke oil. If if is coming out like a mofo, thats what it has to be. Other than that, check the compression.

I played all of the call of duty titles, including the COD4 beta. It is gonna kick ass!

Not if it just started doing it.

I would probably tip the bike up at a 45 degree angle with the side cover off towards the passenger side. Then spray in that hole left and right. Let it sit and drain for a bit and reassemble it.

The pc's hands down time and time again have a better torque curve and put more hp down than any other pipe on low-mid, or mid-mx port motor. I rank them #1 from what I have seen. They come on strong off the bottom and hit till about 8600 rpm or so. I dont know about alot of people who dont run them. I ride with 4 guys + myself that have them also.

Correct, more petal area= more flow= more power!

make sure all the particles of old clutch are out of the sidecase area and the center trans area via the oil balance hole. If anything remains in there and gets flung into the crankseal, thats gonna ruin your weekend.

:biggrin: I have a cascade 2 into 1 intake with match ported vforce 3 reeds now. So, I still have a single carb.

I would go there and make changes once you ride it. Supposedly when the 4 mill went to Saint Anthony in Idaho, he dropped 2 main jet sizes. He isn't that good with needles though, so he kept that the same.

Does it billow out when you roll on the throttle?

I have an intake with match ported cages and carbon tech reeds, but I am no done porting it yet, and I dont have a carb.

What color is the smoke, and does it smell like 2 stroke oil? Which side is doing it?

Even if you decide to just smooth out the stock porting now, I probably wouldn't get the tr6. They only seem to do good with stock motors. If you do ever have it ported, you would want to be in the market for new pipes if you are running the tr6. Its useless to give hp numbers from the dyno I use, so that you can compare someone elses dyno numbers to it. Its only going to be accurate as a gain number between the bikes that are run on the dyno I use. Dyno to Dyno numbers will always be off. I dont know much about the dmc pipes, but I would be interested in seeing torque curve numbers and hp sign off rpm before choosing them. For what it sounds like you want to do with your bike and what you want your power delivery to be like. I can provide a look into the pipes I know about as far as dyno, and real world testing..........I would probably be interested in the T5's, PTR mids, or Even the FMF Fatty's. You got to kind of decide if your gonna be balls out all the time and doing drag racing, or if your gonna do the trail mx track thing more. If you dont need a ton of rpm, then the pro circuits or the FMF Gnarly setup is gonna better suit your needs.

There isn't really anything that can fix. If you had choked up carbs then one side would run different than the other. Banshees dont have carbon issues. I would say fresh gas, and a set of plugs is all you can do short of pulling the carbs and making some tuning changes.