Snopczynski

I cant tell anything fom the pics (flash), all the port windows will need to be measured to tell what it is.

I had one for about two years. The guy who won the worcs series is a friend of mine. He can make it up hills just fine. He can 45mph over the whoop road down at coos bay. They are a kick in the pants. If I was to buy a 700 efi rhino I would wait till next winter for the second year of them. They will work out any bugs they have on the second run of them. Jeff is on the left in the pic. The guy on the right in the red ranger is long time mickey thompson Atv racer Doug Eichner. Worcs winner link

Probably cold and tons of water (ponds and lakes) out in the dunes. I wont go between Middle of November to about the 3rd week in April.

Connector link Pdf K&L Link Another pdf link Yet another pdf link 1 more pdf Link

The yellow bike is a cascade 4 mill with ptr mids. The black one is a ported 350 with ptr mids. The green and white is a ported 350 with pc's and forest service arrestors, and the blue bike is a ported 350 with pc's and regular silencers. The ptr mids that I have seen on the dyno pull way more rpm than the pc's, but as you can see in this video, the blue bike with pc's wins. Drag Racing Link

K&L Supply.

check ebay and google.

Pc's make more torque and hp than ptr pipes. I have seen the crank dyno testing to prove it.

No, it will be a midrange monster. That setup with pro circuits will be a torque monster. Alot of it will depend on compression and porttiming though.

Pro circuits, good torque and nice midrange pull.

Trail tech bulbs are replaceable. You can get them at a good hardware store.

Pm me your number.

ok, heres the deal. I know exactly what needs to be done with a stock harness. I have only been providing snippets of info till now. The stock harness wiring will probably eventually get melted with a 200w stator, and its 16ga wire (contrary to someones 18ga wire belief on here). The harness needs re-ran with at least 14ga wire, and it needs to be ran seperate of the stock harness. That way if it does melt, it doesn't make the bike run like shit cause it wont melt itself to any ignition stuff. You should also hook the voltage regulator to the wiring after the switch, so its only working when the lights are on. You should try to use an aftermarket switch, as the factory one doesn't do so well with regulated voltage being drawn through it. This will keep your hanress cool, intact, and working ok. Run 125w of lights, and that will be an optimal brightness. Now, if you want to do a battery or a capacitor with hid's let me know. I have done it, and its not hard.

Tim and Chris from Cascade are friends of mine. They are the #1 do it all shop for a banshee. They offer good fitting, good running, and reliable parts and motors for their customers. I have only drag raced against one of their bikes that was being ridden by a guy who had never ever ridden a banshee in the sand before. He told me it was very torquey. I know Cascade has an in house dyno they test and tune on. If your looking to spend money with them, you wont be disappointed.

Thats bigger jetting than what I put in a 78hp 4 mill stroker. I doubt thats gonna be even near right.

Ricky Stator switch link. If you want to run a toggle, then run one that is rated at 10-15 amps if your only going to run 125 watts of bulbs.

Gonna need to know whats done to the zilla. Are you racing on dirt or sand?

I built one for Bansh-eman and sent it to him. steel sheet metal. Put it in the sheet metal brake bender and drilled 4 holes in it. Then I rounded off the corners and it was all good.

Dan at Patriot Racing. Thats all I have to say.

Ok, two things here. No 18 ga will not be fine. It would be if you ran 1 foot of it. However I am pretty sure it will be longer than a foot. I would run at least 14ga. Second, the 200w stator will not run 200watts of bulbs. At most I would run 125w with it. So a 75w and a 50w bulb. Only way you can run 200w and not have it be dimm ALL the time is by running a battery. I tried 150 watts with a rs flywheel along with my 200w stator and regulator. It was dim unless I was above about 6k rpm. It blew chunks, and it was irritating as fuck to deal with when cresting a dune at night.

I do them to 22 ft lbs.

Yes, trail tech makes hid's. Other than that you would have to custom install a light and housing. You also have to do a dc conversion and run a capacitor or a battery to fire off the hid's.

why would a billet manufacturer know if the dc conversion is a pain in the a$$? Its easy to do. Hardest part is making a battery mount.

Give it to him and pay to have the gauge certified and calibrated.

I have zero experience with anything of theirs except their billet lights. I am pretty sure they dont make a Banshee stator.